I’m in the process of building a fixture for my 2x4 veg tent and have recently purchased a 4pack of the hlg qb120’s. I already have some wago connectors and solid core wire, but still need to purchase a power cord, junction, and driver for my new fixture build. My question is; is the HLG-240H-C2100b dimmable? I’m a bit confused with descriptions in the catalogs for most suppliers and am looking for a dimmable driver that can run on 110. @dbrn32 @Usmcjojo
The b does not come with a built in dimmer. The a does.
The 240h-c2100b is dimmable with an external potentiameter. Meaning you need to add it.
Hlg-240h-c2100A has built in potentiometer that dims from max output to roughly 50% of nameplate current.
Hlg-240h-c2100B comes with external dimming leads. That means you have to purchase and install your own dimmer.
For what it’s worth, the A is probably the easiest to build. But if you’re going to be dimming a lot you need to install driver somewhere it’s easy to get to. They have a small rubber plug on face that needs to be removed then you insert a #1 Phillips screwdriver to turn. The B model requires extra components and more wiring, so that usually is turn off. But it also allows to to install the dimmer wherever it’s most convenient
@dbrn32 @Aolelon @Drinkslinger thanks. I have 2 Hlg-320h’s powering 6 hlg288 boards in my flower tent, but bought those as kits from hlg. The drivers that came with the 320xl kits are the ones you mentioned that have the rubber cap covering the small screw for dimming, but was never sure whether the (a) or (b) in the driver names correlated to dimmability function.
Once again, thanks! This is all becoming more clear with your help, as now I just have to hunt down some sort of framework/heatsink for my first time fixture build from the bottom up!
Would just cutting a little more length for the power cord going into the driver, and mounting the driver outside the tent be ok, as far as being an easy build but still having access to dimming, as the driver would now be “remote”?
Sure would. As long as it doesn’t get to be too long of a cable, you’ll have to possibly up size wire to fight some voltage drop.
@dbrn32 Ok, that makes sense and sounds like a plan. I’m only thinking of making it long enough to mount on a small piece of plywood, say maybe 12”x12” and hang it on the outside of the tent. Mainly for dimming access but hopefully a little less environmental heat will be a byproduct of this🤷🏼♂️ Who knows lol.
I know they say that You don’t need a heatsink if your not running your boards in excess of 65-70 per board? Which is just about the max watts each board can do; so I guess what I’m saying is, what would you recommend as far as mounting them? Should I be looking for a piece of plate aluminum about 1/8” thick, or possibly building a rail type frame on which to mount the boards and clean up wiring?
Once again, thanks bro!
The qb288 boards can go to a max of around 130-150w.
Oh, I know. I was speaking about using 4 qb120’s I just picked up to build a light for another tent I have. The rated max for the 120 boards is I believe 65 or 70 watts per board. That’s why I was trying to figure out a dimmable 240 watts max driver to match
They should run passive on that driver. If you mount them to plate and increase surface area of cooling would increase efficiency a little bit. But not necessary.