All out of likes @Donaldj but I love this.
4:40am fricken dogs woke me after about 4hr’s sleep so starting early today I did manage to do some more soldering yesterday so down to last 10 pigtails to solder than it’s flip frame and start connecting lines. Just an FYI for people planning lights like this solder pigtails before mounting lights the heatsink has proven very efficient at sucking heat away this includes the heat from soldering so pretty time consuming connecting pigtails to chips if I am not working today I should be able to finish all the connections and be onto making shroud? Frame and shroud shouldn’t be too heavy but idea is to have entire fixture aid in heat dissipating so all aluminium and tin
Are you using thermal paste between frame joints? I’ve never expected my frames to aid in thermal management, but I would guess sanding and cleaning joints first and then adding paste would be the way to go.
the tighter the joints the more thermal transfer the more surface the faster it is released so why not use frame too in theory heat is just like electricity the better the conducting material and it’s connections the higher it’s efficiency. That doesn’t mean I would want to make platinum or gold frame more over that I want as much conductive surface as possible not so thick it store heat but a balance so if I thought of watts as volts a wire gauge rated for 500-600v 12 would do the trick if heat is easily moved across frame it can be easily cooled too by the increased surface area in theory best material would be copper but in most cases people want lighter fixtures alluminium wire needs on average to be 1 size greater than copper to carry same voltage Oddly I happen to have copper around if I so chose but not wanting to waste it on science project
I concur about the frame. The biggest issue is that aluminum starts to oxidize almost immediately. And when you’re talking about standard stock shapes, surface quality isn’t great. So I would prep and paste those joints to make the most of them.
The aluminum wire vs copper is just like you said, but the voltage rating is usually a product of type of insulation. I trust you’re good there either way.
Oddly I spent a year in college learning electrical and the way wires are rated is a combo of amperage and voltage not just insulation electricity is like water it flows at certain volume Amperage and certain pressure Voltage constricting volume in turn increases pressure but a higher pressure moves easier through constriction than volume this creates line loss so wire thickness is designed to reduce restriction allowing both volume and pressure to move more efficiently even bare wires like power lines are rated for conductor thickness I will be most likely thermal pasting my joints and if I like results of Led’s will likely cross my street to Machinists shop and get them to make my next frame 1/2" bar stock machined with water channels or plasma cut then sandwhich channels or source different options
For the most part. I too spent my college years mostly in the electrical and industrial maintenance fields. Generally speaking, wire size determines ampacity and insulation material and size determine voltage rating. There are of course exceptions and derating factors for both. But most of them are far beyond the scope of anything members here will be doing.
If you have a piece of 18 awg stranded copper rated at 300 volts and 14 amps, going to 14 awg or even to something like 1/0 with the same insulation type will not increase the voltage rating any. It will just increase the current rating. Likewise going to a 600v rating in the same conductor would just be a change in the insulation. The size and type of the conductor wouldn’t change any, and it would still be rated for the same 14 amps.
Like you said if you go from copper, to aluminum clad copper, to straight up aluminum conductor you will see some differences in current rating. But that has to due with the conductor material itself. You would need a change in thickness or material of insulation to change the voltage rating.
in this instance it is a comparison to pick a stock size for heat exchange to watts and how easily heat could be moved all my wiring to chips is 16g since will be 3 parallel lines running to a main feed line of 14g
remember main idea is to keep lights cheaper while increasing foot print compared to store bought arrays or expensive DIY kits
Oh ya, I have no issues with your plan or construction. If anything, it’s being built to exceed bare minimum requirements.
I just wanted to suggest a small amount of thermal paste between joints since you were hoping the frame was going to aid in thermal management. Wasn’t sure if you had already planned on that or not. And the wiring, more so for anyone following along that maybe using your project as a guide.
Still early yet but no word from boss yesterday so he likely went Carriboo hunting like he was hoping to so should have time for my project today mind you during my tire change I did notice my ball joints are past due for replacement. Reason my tires were shot but now border on unsafe to drive so will have to try and get them fixed soon most likely will do it myself like many things in my life why pay for something you can do?
Work Christmas party tonight so have to get all my checks done early today and try to get chores out of the way maybe prep my liver a bit?
lol, got to get primed up for festivities !!
Thanks for sharing that. Very interesting. Does anybody use gravity fed drip systems? Diy?
Have you heard of airlift? a simple drip ring system to setup in DWC
Where my Aero unit is as of yesterday I also put clones into my second unit with a 450ppm which is giving me faster roots judging by health and appearance of clones.
my ladies in flower
Just a rough idea how much training my Aero unit gets
love the roots in aero, gives me something to strive towards
So never letting a mechanic touch my truck again had a U-joint replaced last summer and ever since felt like my ball joints were sloppy so have truck up on jack stands to change ball joints. Only to find the mechanic under tightened my wheel bearing on same side which he fixed so much slop in the bearing likely nothing to do with ball joints their screw up cost me $300+ in tires and another $100 for new bearings throw in tyrod ends I am pissed
worked on truck until nearly 2 am and then again today outside in minus 10c have front bearings shocks and tyrods done replaced brakes since I took them off anyway. Debating replacing rear shocks now however likely to bring it to shop for that inner tyrods and alignment all at once save hours of frustration?
Alignments are usually one of the few things I take mine in for @Donaldj. They have all the properties measuring devices and lasers. As long as you go to the right guy who is experienced they could align it faster than you or I could without any measuring.
I can do it but would take me far longer and freezing my nuts off crawling around on a frost and ice covered driveway also factoring in that the alignment shop is same place that didn’t tighten wheel bearing properly when they replaced my U-joint I may still end up sucking it up and doing it myself