Hi All,
My first post so i appologies in advance for any faux-par i commit straight out the door.
Ill start with this:
Strain; Gorrila Glue Auto - FastBuds - Seed
Hydro - 20 Litre NFT
Reservoir PH: 5.7 average
Strength of nutrient mix: Not Measured (bad move i know, about 85% of recommended on bottle - Shogun Line)
Indoor
600w HPS Full spectrum & 250w LED Full spectrum (both on at same time, i move the LED around)
Day Temp: 24C / Night 14 - 18C depending on weather
Average humidity is 62%
Air Extraction system (300m2/hr) with circulating fan
No AC/ Humidifier or Dehumidifier
No CO2
*About 2-3 weeks left until harvest.
The problem iām experiencing is as seen in the images below, most of the plant seems healthy(or healthy enoughā¦ i nutrient burnt it and all sorts of mistakes you would expect from a first grow). Iāve tried researching it but canāt quite identify the problem. Kind of looks like manganese deficiency but at the same time , not quite and i donāt have the experience to say with certainty. So iām turning to you all, I hope you can help.
Strongly suggest starting ALL nutes at 20% of mfgās schedule. They have no idea what you are growing. You can always move up. But, following mfgās schedule usually means you toast the plants.
That simple.
Use a commercial flush, then plain PHād water for a week.
Donāt measure the nutes and donāt watch the PHā¦gets you a great big harvest of useless hay.
Your choiceā¦Think itās too much trouble. Donāt waste time n effort. Head down to the dispensary and buy smoke from people who grow for a living.
@Raineā¦lots of folks here will gladly offer advice.
Now is much better than 40 yrs agoā¦it was read The One Grow Book and learn the hard way that following the mfgās schedules will make your plants great big bunch of burned hay. Heck, if I had access to the information and helpful folks here ā¦back then, I would not have felt so frustrated, unhappy, useless and incompetent. Lost count of grows I toasted accidentally. Because of the environment back then. Couldnāt talk about itā¦ask questionsā¦let anyone knowā¦that would be a really good way to have the Gestapo Swat teams kicking in your door at 4 am and dragging you off to a cage with REALLY MEAN NASTY UNHAPPY PEOPLEā¦no fun that. Think the rape scene in Deliveranceā¦where the horny guy tells the helpless city boyā¦āYou have pretty lipsā¦just like a girlāā¦
Haha, i didnāt expect this post to remind me of that scene in deliverance but theres no going back now (fair point by the way)
Iāve swapped out my reservoir for plain PH 6.3 water (ish, my PH pen literally just died on me but Iāve got the liquid version thatās not as accurate).
Thanks again for the suggestion, ill try keep this post updated over next few days and see how we get on.
Any suggestion on if i should be removing the troubled leaves?
I personally wouldnāt stress over your situation but I would probably start drawing back on your nutrients a little.
If your in dwc then stick with weekly rez changes and I wouldnāt take your nutrients to zero ppm until the last 4-5 days before harvest but it wouldnt hurt anything to start cutting back some.
You could probably go ahead and remove the affected leaves, they arenāt really helping anything right now but donāt remove ones that still have some green in them
Iām going to also add that you have WAY more than two weeks to go. As long as the plant is pushing white pistils itās actively growing bud mass. When they have begun to turn brown is when you will start to watch for cloudy trichomes.
You can get away with not having a TDS meter in soil but thereās no way you can do a good job in hydro. Itās GOT to be monitored and adjusted. That and PH are your two most critical data sets.
If you havenāt yet; start a journal so you can monitor the progression of flower. If the seed bank quotes X days to harvest then you have another rough cut data point to work with.
Finally; when you get close to harvest you want to be on a water only diet to leach undesirable nutrient residue from the plant. It makes a huge difference in the quality of the smoke.
Thanks for the advice, iāll leave it flushing for a couple of hours make sure there is nothing left over from previous reservoir contents and then add a little nutrient.
I tested the PH again and it appears to have dropped to between 5.5 and 6.0 (its a colour chart thing until i get another PH pen) so i wont adjust it for now and make my next feed around the same PH.
Ive removed the 2 worst leaves, the rest still have a fair bit of green in them so iāll leave them for now and see how they progress.
Glad to hear iāve got more than 2 weeks left, i was worrying that this might hinder everything too much just before harvest. i will say that, about 10% of the āpistilsā are brown so maybe not much longer.
Yeah, next paycheck iāll get a TDS meter and replacement PH pen.
I had read that flushing for the last week or so is a must, appreciate you mentioning it though
Really appreciate you saying i seem to be doing well, ultimately as a first grow i have nothing to gauge against so, thanks
thanks for taking the time to replay, appreciate any help i can get
Amazon sells many sets of PH and PPM metersā¦for around $20 + shipping.
If you do a 30 day trial period of the Prime ā¦free shipping and two day delivery.
Really would like to see your grow make it good. Growing is a blastā¦if you are a proud daddy.
ANDā¦DWC reservoir is best a 5.8 PH. That allows the BEST spectrum of nute access for plants. Let the Ladies grow until the buds are big and fluffy.
In fact; spend as much as you can handle on a PH meter. Donāt forget Standard Reference Solution. This is the meter many of us here use; Iāve had mine for over a year and itās still dead on. The TDS meter is a pretty important aid in maintaining the proper PPMās in your reservoir.
Things can happen pretty quickly in hydro. @TDubWilly has his act together on hydro and is one Iād go to for any advice or mentoring.