Possible Leaf Septoria and a few other issues. First grow and would like some second opinions please!


#1

Sorry for posting this in two spots, I just didn’t know if I should put it in beginner because I’m a beginner or plant care because it’s a plant care issue.

To preface, I am a first time grower but have been researching my ass off every day.

So I guess I will break my post into three issues.

  1. One of my mystery plants (suspected chemdawg, from bag weed) has big yellow/gray/brownish spots that look white in the light on one of it’s leaves. Another one of my plants, an auto flowering tangerine dream, has a slightly smaller (but still larger than what would be caused by fungus gnats, spider mites, etc.), similarly colored spot on one of the leaves. The spots are pretty much perfect circles. I will attach photos. I believe it is Leaf Septoria and that I should remove the leaves. Would you guys agree that that is the issue and the best course of action? I don’t know if it is bad enough to purchase Neem oil or anything like that. Advice would be much appreciated. My only reluctancy removing the leaf from the mystery plant is that the stem of the leaf connects to what is going to be one of the two new main stems, as I topped the plant a few days ago. I am scared removing the leaf may impair the new main stem in some way. Sorry the photo quality is terrible. And sorry that this is going to be a long post.

This last pic is just to show the connection to the new main stem.

  1. One of my plants, a feminized white widow, has two leaves that I am having difficulty diagnosing. One looks more like nutrient burn to me, while the other looks like more of a potassium deficiency. And I suppose either could be from ph fluctuations, as I have a novice eye for these things. I was wondering if you guys knew what was going on here, and what you’d suggest I do in terms of treatment.

  1. Finally, one of the plants that I am growing (the other mystery bag weed seed) does not appear to be doing well. And it seems to be some sort of defective plant. I am not sure if this is cannabis ruderalis or if there is something else up with this plant. The leaves all have three segments, and the two side segments seem to be slightly lower or detached from the middle segment. I read that it might just be hemp and produce no buds. I read other stuff saying that it is a defect and that people have gotten some really potent bud from it. I guess if anyone knows what this plant is please let me know and if you have any suggestions to help liven it up please let me know as well. Sorry again for the poor quality of the pictures. If necessary, I can try to borrow a smart phone from someone to get better pictures.

If you’ve got any other tips based on seeing the pictures that are unrelated to the specific issues here, please still let me know! I am appreciative of any help I can get.

Thank you


#2

So, one at a time, the first looks like light bleaching. I am guessing you are under LED’s. If not that then something dripped on it that was caustic. Water droplets under high intensity light will “lens” and bleach or even burn the plant under it.

Number two looks fine. Probably got into your water one time and dried off. That’s an older leaf and was closer to the dirt line a week ago.

Number three looks to me like too hot soil. Too much nutrients causing it to behave that way. I think it was @garrigan65 that mentioned this one time.

Look at the overall aspect of the plant; if it looks happy that’s a clue you are doing well. Individual leaves may suffer and it’s good to look her over and identify potential problems.

Spend the money to buy a good PH meter and use it! The most important tool a cannabis grower has!

@Dumme, sorry.


#3

Myfriendis410, thank you so much for your reply! That makes me feel a lot better about a lot of this. The first one, the plant with multiple spots on a leaf was under an LED and was really close to it for a day or more. The other one may have been under an led at one point but could also be from a water droplet.

For the 3rd one, could the soil still be too hot if it has been grown indoors? And is there any way I could fix it, besides not giving it further nutrients? Would more water flush out the nutrients in the soil.

And for one and 2, should I cut off the leaves or the damaged parts of the leaves? or should I just leave them alone.

Sorry for all of the questions and thank you so much for your help, now I will be able to sleep tonight.

And I will order the PH meter, thank you for the advice!


#4

Sorry; by “hot” I mean too rich in nutrients and is burning the plant. A water flush will indeed rinse salts out of the media. There are products like Sledgehammer and FloraKleen that are used in aid of this. I use FloraKleen.

The leaves are fine; as long as they are green and healthy, leave em on there.

When you order the PH meter be sure to get PH up and PH down. The unit I showed you comes in a kit with calibration solution and a lot of us buy a bottle of Standard Reference Solution (PH 7.0) to verify calibration periodically.


#5

@BeefStewart , looks like your just watering around the base and only a little. being their fabric pots you need to water them slowly but enough so you have at least 20 to 30% runoff. and do not let your plants sit in the runoff water either. then let go until pot is light to pick up or top is completely dry. if you only water around base of plant and only a little water your roots wont stretch to bottom and you will stunt your plants growth. just little tip to add, i use 3 gallon fabric pots myself. hope this helps


#6

Thank you again! My bad haha, I’m still new to a lot of growing lingo. I will look into FloraKleen. Do you think the plant is a regular plant even though it has just 3 leaves on every stem? You think that was caused by too much nutrients? If it is possible for me to get bud from the plant then I will invest in the FloraKleen.

I will order some PH up and PH down. I’m starting to think that PH could be causing a lot of problems. Because Friday through yesterday I had a ph probe running from my nose to my stomach that gave me a live feed of the ph in my esophagus/stomach, and every time I drank some of the filtered water from my fridge, the ph in my esophagus would drop from 7.0 to 4.9-5.1, which leads me to think we have crazy acidic water or something.

Some of my white widows seem to not be growing or if they are, they seem go be growing very slowly. They were transplanted as seedlings just shy of two months ago. They look really green and healthy, and are very dense, like tons of leaves, but they are only like half a foot tall to a foot. I have 3 of them. They clearly aren’t dead, but they just don’t seem to be growing upward at all. I did not top any of them as they are so short to begin with.


#7

Thank you, this is helpful! I am guilty of pouring most of the water directly around the base. I also never quite know how much water to use. I used not a ton of water last time I watered them about a week ago and the top soil is still damp. I’m not sure if this is normal or how long you are supposed to wait between watering?


#8

PH isn’t everything, but it’s most things with cannabis. If you don’t have your liquid at the correct input PH, all kinds of issues will inevitably develop. Including nutrient burn and overages of Nitrogen. What happens is a grower will see a deficiency; let’s say N is low. They feed feed feed Nitrogen while not paying close attention to the PH and for the first 3 waterings the PH has been too low or high for the plant to access that N. Then on the fourth feeding PH (accidentally) falls in the correct range and ALL of the N is now available to a hungry plant. That becomes bad news.

If it’s hot; feed less. More water or more dilute nutrients so the plant doesn’t over do it when it is hot.

Your WW’s are in all likelihood stalled out due to PH issues. It really is that important.


#9

Thank you so much! The PH tester came in today. This sounds stupid, but do I only use it to test ph of future waterings and feedings? or can I stick it into the soil to see ph? Sorry, pretty high right now. But somehow your explanation made perfect sense to me. I really appreciate the help. That is probably exactly what has been going on. I didn’t realize it worked like that. Hopefully I can get the ph right on the WWs so they start to grow. Maybe I can just keep them vegetating for longer so they will be more like the size I’d want them before beginning flowering stage.


#10

Anything you are going to water your plants with needs to be PH’d. Just before you do. You can’t PH water then add stuff to it; that will change the PH of the solution. You also can NOT store water or nutrients or expect PH to remain the same if you let it stand. So, just before dumping the liquid on the plants is when you check and adjust PH using the UP and DOWN.

You can determine the soil PH by taking a 1/4 cup of soil and mix it with distilled water; about 1 cup. Let stand for 30 minutes then measure the PH. A runoff test is where you capture the liquid at runoff under the pot and test the last 10% of it to determine your soil PH as well. Soil is 6.3 to 6.8. Be sure to rinse off the probe with distilled water and cap with it still damp: good for the glass bulb to not dry out.


#11

Thank you my friend, you have been a ton of help! Do I test the soil of each of the plants if I used the same soil and the same water/nutrients in them all? I’d assume they use the nutrients at different rates and therefore I should check the soil of each pot? And do I calibrate the tester in the PH 7.00 buffer solution every time before I use it to test the ph of water or soil (should I do 2 point calibration with the ph4.00 solution too?)? I’m assuming this wouldn’t need to be a high accuracy measure, in which case the internet says to calibrate once every week or so. And when I calibrate, should I rinse it after calibrating, before putting it into what I wish to measure?

I am terribly sorry for all the questions. I will try to not ask any more after this. I really do appreciate your help a ton. My whole family thanks you.


#12

All good questions.

I usually don’t slurry test unless I am unsure of the soil composition or if there is an obvious problem.

You can calibrate your meter using the 2 point calibration although the instructions are kinda murky. FYI I calibrated mine when I got it September 2016 and re did it a couple of months ago: it was .1 off. Maybe.

I rinse mine in R/O water after use and before I put it away.

Storing the probes in the Standard Reference Solution (7.0) is highly recommended. Won’t hurt it a bit.

Don’t worry about the questions. You’re doing fine. Keep asking.


#13

Damn, I wish I encountered people as kind and helpful as you in the real world! I appreciate all the time you’ve put in to helping someone you don’t even know.

Is a slurry test just testing soil from multiple areas in the same pot? I tried to look it up online but didn’t get real conclusive information. Do you do a regular ph test for the soil of all of your plants? Or no ph testing (aside from the water/water-nute-solution) unless there is a problem?

So I guess my plan of action would be to test the white widows that appear to have stunted growth (and particularly the one with nutrient burn on two leaves).

That is reassuring that it stayed calibrated for so long! When I stuck mine in the two solutions it appeared to already be calibrated, so I was happy about that.

I will need to get some r/o water. I’ve been using tap water. And my tap water read between 7.3 (large container) and 7.7 (small cup), so I am worried it has been hurting my plants.

To store the probe in the solution, would I just have the device balancing above the container with the tip in and the container open? Or is there a way to remove the probe itself from the rest of the device?

Thanks again, man!


#14

Usually a slurry test is taken from the root zone. New soil you’d just test a sample.

Just dip the probe in the solution, shake and cap it off. The cap will keep it moist.