Please help with stretch

@aussie123556 @WillyJ Thanks I will look into supercropping. How far down do you think I should do this?WillyJ wow your room looks so Awesome,I’ll stop by to have a look Very very nice!!

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Yup, @WillyJ is right. I’ve super cropped in flower before even when I didn’t need extra height. I did it for yield only.

I super cropped this cola 4 weeks into flower, the plant itself was probably only 2’ tall or so…

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@TDubWilly wow very nice bud. How far down the stem do you think I should go?

Personal preference brother…

I just try to choose a spot that opens up your lower buds below the “top” to more light…

This is a bit unconventional practice so do yourself some research first instead of just jumping in head first. I don’t have a deep rooted fear that I’m going to harm my plants so I’ll try some unconventional things

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Choose spots that will open up canopy some and get it to be more even…the branches are probably starting to harden and not as easy to bend so try and pinch as best you can at the bending point and work it back and forth until it’s soft and bends right over try not to break outer skin but if it does break open don’t worry just put some masking tape around it just try not to break it off…you want the branch to hang a little lower than were you want it to end up after it heals it will start to lift toward the light as it heals…you can tie them down… also.were the break is will form a knuckle and actually improves uptake of water/nutes to the buds on that branch…hopefully this helps @Ronbowe63
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@Ronbowe63 lower those lights right now and that will help reduce stretch.

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Yes you can also hammer them with light as @Myfriendis410 suggested but keep an eye on them and move light up after the 2 weeks because to intense light will stress plants can make them herm @Ronbowe63

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@Myfriendis410 @WillyJ ` Thanks I’m going to lower the lights.:+1: Not going to crop them yet.

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Ya especially if they are LEDs, when they are placed to close photoinhibition can begin to happen pretty quickly.

If your tops begin to look bleached then they are getting to much

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Nute burned and photoinhibition

Good choice, just watch them :eyes:

@TDubWilly Thanks I’m going to take it slow, lower them and check back every hour.Also thanks for the pic, did those recover ok?

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That pic is from the lab forum, from a member named spike.

You’ll see recovery in newer growth.

Rule of thumb is if it feels hot on the back of your hand, that’s too close.

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Works for all lights except led

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@aussie123556 Very nice. I tried to bring lights down lower yesterday but 12” is about it, when I went to 10” the Very tips of top leaves started to burn. I think I’m going to be ok hasn’t really stretched much over last couple of days.:grin:

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You know, for $10 - $15 you can get a lux meter on Amazon. It’s very useful to compare your lights to full sun, just to get an idea of how much light your plants are getting.

150$ for a par meter if you have leds :cold_sweat:

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I’m not too sure about how useful single-readout PAR meters are. PAR describes a spectrum of light from blue to red, that is used by plants (with not as much useful in the green). If you looked at a bright blue LED, your PAR meter would say it is high with no red present. Same with a red LED. What you really want is a meter that can measure the light at about 10 different bands and show you a spectrum. You could do that with any light meter and a set of color filters, but I have not seen a single-readout PAR meter that does that. They are all designed to take a reading based on sunlight or an incandescent black-body as the source. Using one with LEDs is rather useless, unless they are broadband LEDs with a continuous spectrum like some COBs.

You could do that pretty well with a light meter and just red and blue filters. But expensive filters are tricky. You could have a narrow band filter that would miss a big LED light emission and give you a fake low reading. But your plants could use the light spike just fine.

Depends on the par meter. Apogee quantum sensor will read 389-692nm +/- 5nm. Which is a way more accurate reading and scale than you’ll get measuring lumens/lux.

There’s just as big of an issue with comparing to sunlight. Depending on season, the sun is easily over 2000 umols in spot readings. Try and and make that work in an indoor grow lol. People keep talking about replicating the sun like it’s difficult. It’s not difficult at all, just expensive. Then reality would set in and you realize you can’t keep ambient co2 levels high enough or temps cool enough to make the light useful. Yet, plants grow fine under the sun in its natural environment. Replicating the majority of sunlight isn’t difficult, replicating an outdoor grow is. It sucks, but that’s life.

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