Plants: wedding cake
Indoor
1 month in veg
Feeded with B’Cuzz Atami
Gavita lights 500 wat
I always use the same feeding system and had never have any issues up until now. Please see the photo. The only thing that was changed was brand new soil. The soil is without any additives.
Hi - please posts a few pics of the plant itself.
Please copy and paste this support ticket. It helps everyone assess what you have going on:
Strain; Type, Bag seed, or NA:
Age from sprout:
Age from flower:
Soil, Hydroponic, or Soil-less (ie Coco)
If using soil or soil-less medium, what kind is it (i.e fox farm ocean forest, roots organics potting soil, self made mix of… etc.)?
How often do I water, how do I determine when to water, and what are you pH’ing at:
PH and PPM/TDS/EC of runoff or solution in reservoir?
What is strength of nutrient mix? EC, or TDS.
Indoor or Outdoor:
Room size:
Light system, size, height from plants:
Temps; Day, Night:
Humidity; Day, Night:
Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size:
AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier:
Co2; Yes, No:
Any other info you think is pertinent:
Definitely need a picture of the whole plant and items listed above
Looks from that pic I’d have to say it’s NUTRIENT BURN check my pic out. Sure looks that way to me
The reason for this is, because a newer grower will use a chemical nutrient
most of the time and listen to the directions on the box. This is a NO NO!
Depending on the age of the plant, size, strain and soil mixture you are using
also has a factor. There is no set guideline when using nutrients, but I can
give you a good example to start out with so you will not burn your plants.
It’s always good to start out light, rather than feed heavy. Remember you can
always add more later, but can not take out when you added to much. Chemical
and Organic nutrients differ. Chemical nutrients are more readily available
and can burn way easier than organics can. Organics are easier for a newer
grower to use, most of the time, and lessen your chances of burning your plants.
I recommend not using more than ½ teaspoon of chemical nutrients per gallon
of water. Unless the plants are very big 5 feet+, then it’s safe to use 1
teaspoon per gallon of water. When your plants first emerge you want to wait
at least 2 weeks before feeding your plants, unless your plants are in a soiless
mixture, like pro mix. The cotyledons (its first set of round looking leaves) are
what give the plant its food until they get the first 2 or 3 sets of leaves. If
your plants are in a soiless mixture and are over the first week of age; you can
feed a weak amount of nutrients, like ¼ teaspoon per gallon of water. Soiless
mixtures are different from soil plants and soiless plants need to be fed more
when using this mixture.
I also recommend not feeding more than 1 time a week if using ½ teaspoon per
gallon of water for chemical nutrients. You can feed every other day,( this
goes for chemical and organics) at very weak amounts, but doing this may contribute
to over watering, and for that I do not recommend feeding more than once a week.
Some people feed 2 times a week using like ¼ teaspoon per gallon of water… Use 1/4
strength for first feeding and then go up to 1/2 strength from the 2nd feeding when
using chemical nutrients. It’s very easy to overdo it. When using organics, depending
on which one you’re using, I recommend using 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. When the
plant gets bigger you can work your way up to using more nutrients when the plants
get bigger.
As for soil mixtures, there are a lot of different kinds of soil’s out there. Using a
rich soil mixture is not recommended for seedlings. Seedlings that are under 2
weeks of age you do not want to start them in rich soil, using a seed starter
mixture is one of the safer ways. Seed starter mixtures are weak in nutrients,
so it will not burn the seedlings but will provide them enough to get past seedling
stage, but the downside is you have to transplant into a better soil mixture after 2
weeks of age. If you decide to start with this mixture, do not put your seedlings
into a big pot. Start them out with using a cup or a small pot.
Nutrient Burn causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. They can also be brown
and twisted and crispy looking. Depending on the severity it can show many different
symptoms and shows on lower part of the plant when its young, at older stages it
can move anywhere on the plant. The burn will creep into the center of the leaf
causing it to curl and dry up. It depends on the specific nutrient that is in excess.
For example, too much nitrogen causes leaves to curl downwards and too much potassium
creates brown spots near the edge of the leaf. Either way, nutrient burn may potentially
kill your plant or lead to it having a strong chemical taste.
To fix the problem when you have Nutrient burn, you want to flush out the plants
with lots of water.
Soil
Soil should be flushed with lots of water, Use 3 gallons of water per one gallon of soil.
Flush very thoroughly, after plant recovers usually after a week, you can resume using
nutrients after a week or a week 1/2. When you flush your soil, you flush everything out,
a lot of nutrients go with it, including the soil nutrients.
Hydro `````````````````
Change out the reservoir, flush out any lines and clean out the entire system and
replace with plain water for the first hour, then start out with lower parts per
million (PPM)
Its good to clean out your system every 2 weeks and replace with fresh water and
nutrients. Some people change everything every week!
Ahh, nute burn! Stop this by not adding to much chemical/organic nutrients to your
water,foliar feeding. DONT feed more than 1 time a week unless using weak amount,
use 1/4 strength for first feeding and then go up to 1/2 strength from then on when
using chemical nutrients. Its very easy to overdo it. Causes leaf tips to appear
yellow or burnt. NEVER give nutrients to plants that are under 2 weeks of age, at
this age the soil nutrients are enough to suppliment them untill 2 weeks of age or
more depending on how good your soil is. Using ferts before 2 weeks will almost
likley kill your plants.
Strain: Wedding cake - from a mother plant
Age from sprout: 30 days
Soil: black gold organic
Using drop irrigation system, ph- ing all the time, keeping it around 6, watering every two days or when deeded
Indoor
Light system: gavitas, 500 wats
Temps; Day 75 Night: 69
Humidity 50
Ventilation system; Yes
AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier: yes
Co2: No
I am posting few pictures of the sick plants. And one photo of a healthy plant. The healthy plant is in a different soil.
All the plants are fed the same way, same nutrients, same strength. Is there any ways, the issue is the new soil.
I tried some black gold organic potting soil and had a real hard time getting the pH into an acceptable range. No matter what I tried, it was below 5, which is bad for cannabis. What kind of soil is the other plant in that is healthy?
Have you been adding any nutrients?
What size pots are you in? They look small for the plant size, but its tough to gauge.
You want to pH at 6.5.
You are using a drip irrigation system, but you also water every other day? Have you ever watered to runoff and measured the pH and ppms of the water?
@Sixpackdad thank you for your respond. The healthy plants are in soil that we’ve been using for three years already. We test it every year and amend it accordingly.
This is the first time we are using the Black Gold Soil. Do you suggest buying brand new soil or flushing this one real good?
We use general organics at the moment.
They are ready for transplanting again and we’re planning to do it in few days. We do flush manually too
I tried flushing black gold and i could not get the pH to rise above 5, so I just gave up. I abandoned it as a potting soil for my seedlings and went with the roots organics original potting soil I typically use for my bigger plants. My opinion, I wold go with something else. The reason I use Roots Organics is that it’s an amended coco/perlite substrate that has a pH between 5.8 and 6.3 which is perfect for cannabis. I water it at 5.8pH, and after a few weeks the plant uses up the nutes in the soil and I begin to added nutrients.
The size of the pots could be part of the problem if the plants are root bound. They loo big for those pots. You want to be in 5 gallon or bigger. I typically transplant to a 5 gallon pot from a solo-cup after one week, two tops.
Black gold is also a hot soil, so if you are adding nutrients its probably overloaded on nutes. Do you have a ppm meter?
@Sixpackdad thank you so much. I’ll just throw the soil away and buy a brand new one then. I can’t risk another 1000 pants.
Yes, I do have a ppm meter. I’ve been away from the grow room for a month and came back to this disaster so I still haven’t check the exact ppm at the moment. But I was told by the growers, the plants started looking sick about 6 days after the transplanting.
Thank you once again. I’m just replacing the plants and the soil with new ones.
@hilltop.farm is this the Black Gold soil you are using? Bag says “with fertilizer”. I would guess this would be considered a “Super Soil”. I am growing in a local Super Soil and have fed nothing but pH’ed RO water. My plants are in 3 gallon pots (wish I would have went right into 5gal.) I wouldn’t think any nutes would be required yet.
You can see the process I followed in My Journal. This is my latest pic of my plants
Hope it helps you,
@Verndoc here is a photo of the soil bag
Thank you for the info. Your plants look amazing! Great job, buddy
I would say that’s a water only soil at least initially. May be able to flush and check the ppm’s of your run off to see your salt levels and flush some out. Getting beyond my knowledge level but I wouldn’t feed at all. My plan is to continue w water only until I start seeing a little nutritional needs in the plants. I’m sure I’ll screw something up but so far so good.
@Sixpackdad has hit every high spot on the issues you are having. I couldn’t have said it better myself! Well done.
Pot size looks small: if you are root bound you will have all kinds of PH issues.
Water to runoff every time. Get a good handle on your PH. When you say “around 6” that makes me nervous.
Ditch the Black Gold for something more tailored to what we are doing. Otherwise you will likely be chasing deficiencies all the way to harvest. As pointed out a nutrient free media like coco or Promix when transplanted, a good flush and then NO feeding until the plant looks like it’s ready.
Slurry test on your existing soil may be good as a data point too.
Thank you very much.
I’m sure it’s not root bound because, as I said earlier, they started showing issues almost immediately after they were transplanted into the new soil.
PH around 6 , meaning 5.9, 6, 6.1. I never water/ feed without checking my ph.
I actually checked the soil ph today and it was crazy high, around 8 and above, no matter it’s been flushed several time and the plants are always fed with ph’d water.
I’ve been using the same nutrient schedule for 4 years and never ever had any issues before, that’s why I too agree it’s an issue with the soil.
I will sure take your advice and dump the soil. I appreciate it! Thank you
