Thanks for the tag and kind words @Budz @Mark0427 could be right, we tend to only trust 3 brands of PH meters Hanna, bluelab or Apera the rest are generally junk. They also need to all be calibrated once a month.
While growing in soild the idea is to void run off until one starts feeding nutrients. To find a soils PH or ppm a soil sample is what is needed, with distilled water (YouTube it)
Soils will feed generally until early flower, then the nutrients become use up or not readily enough available for the amount of light pushed if you have good light. If you donāt have good light, temp, airflow, humidity no amount of nutrients matters.
I hope what I have said has helped. Iām on days off for a week but I may get time here and there so tag away and Iāll help when I can
Iāll try to get some more. Just re call I stated it a little over two weeks ago. But will do again to be sure. Iāll look into some more reputable brands. Thx
I believe they still need N in flower, especially during the first few weeks when the plant is stretching ? Maybe Iām looking at this wrongš¤ Iāve had N deficiency in flower, so I assume the plant needs N in flower if itās pulling from the leaves ?
Iām referring specifically to transition. The 1-2 weeks from when she starts her major stretch till she has the beginning of crowns. She will need nitrogen the entire grow, yes. But some nutrients really push it. It was only recently that the feed schedule for RBās changed to have boost added during transition. The old schedule called it for end flower. This is because during that big stretch in transition she needs more PK to do more. If you subsequently increase nitrogen at the same time, when for those 1-2 weeks sheās hardly even using it, it will cause burn.
For an idea of how important using something like tribus to greatly increase nutrient availability to the roots and a PK boost is important in transition. Like I said, still got a little burn, but this was a 13 day transition, 3 week stretch. So she kept stretching for a week after transition.
@Budz gave u solid info. The original tip burn was n toxicity. Most calmagās are made from Calcium Nitrate. And as was also stated, plants in flower require lower amounts of N and more P and K (the other issue).
Its a hard line to walk when you see a calcium deficiency mid flowerā¦ thats why alot of people have moved to diff sources of calcium (gypsum, silica) and magnesium (epsom salts). Easier to control NPK with them.
The other issue I see is mass yellowing. When ur leaves yellow from the outside then āburn up at the edgesā (looks like tip burn just covers ALOT more of the leaf) its usually hungry. Especially at this stage. You could supplement some heavy bloom ferts to help her grow those buds.
Now the original problem u saw was āadded calmag, light N burn to the tipsā. So you backed off all supplements and went from ātoo much Nitrogen, to not enough of anythingā.
Ppms under 6-700 in FF soils midflower is pretty low. What line of nutrients are you planning on using?
Sorry about the delay and missed support ticket. Happy u got some good growers to start pointing you in the right direction
A couple things. Autos should never be topped or pruned all the hell. You should be using the same photo period all the way through grow.
So, I want to clarify your mention of transition mentioned several times, in order to try and advise you.
BTW. I have, but do not grow autos. If I were outdoors, I might try them again. Indoors I can manipulate fems to limit size and create more yirld. IMO.
ā¦ all cannabis follows the same basic steps. The idea you canāt or donāt train autos will be largely disagreed with right here on the forum by the many growers who do. Some noted ones of course directly above us in this threadā¦
Do youā¦ do you even keep up with the forum?
You literally pointed out its change in use in week 1 of flower instead of end. How tf you gonna argue with yourselfā¦ That transition stretchā¦ Flower stretch. However you want to look at it
I do apologize. Iām letting my personal troubles seep over into other aspects of life again. You are not at all at fault. I simply do not learn from certain mistakes. I should not be exhibiting such shortness in a learning environment. So again. I apologize.
Me too! Shiteāday. I see you are dedicated to mastering your craft. It is nice of you to be fair. Life sucks for everyone right now. People losing jobs and have no idea how they are going to survive. Others do not careā¦
Some of us are losing loved ones, others their homes.
Anyway. I respect your attempts to help out. I guess it is just easier to lash out when one is feeling down. @ is open.
