So a while back I posted about how my plants leaf tips were yellowing and it was drooping a little bit. I stopped watering it and then began watering again and it almost doubled in size. I believe that was the problem. A few other concerns such as a weak stem seem to have been solved as well, I added an although weak fan the stem on the second half of the plant is about double the thickness and it can hold its own now.
Anyhoo, my plant is still not looking so hot and I do not know why, did I say my problems are solved? I meant they’re still here. Mainly drooping/yellowing leaves like the last time except the new leaves are off color and the tips are almost burnt, like they’re dry and if you touch them they will crumble in your fingers. I’m not going to write a long story this time but rather post some pictures and see if you guys can help.
Pictures;
Two more questions I have are;
Can you guys sex this plant or does it need more time?
I want to top my plant, is my plant old enough to do this? Also I can’t seem to find a decent guide that highlights what part to pull out…can anyone show me or give me a link to a guide on what part?
Here are two more photos, you may notice the yellowing and off colored new leaves along with the tips dying. The fan leaves under the new leaves appear to be healthy but the leaves towards the bottom small and droopy. One thing I did add just like two days ago is some horse manure to my mixture instead of a nutrient compound as I do no have the money for some pro stuff yet.
Did you add straight manure or was it composted? A lot of times straight stuff can cause problems with PH and nutrient balance. I’ve used goat manure but it’s been composted and mixed with grass clippings and leaves. It actually looks more like rich dirt by the time I used it.
I’m so sorry for never getting back to this, I had bronchitis for a while and was a zombie and then just recently I couldn’t get into my account due to some password mishaps.
I have no idea about the pH as I don’t have a meter yet.
The maure wasn’t composted, it’s cow I believe, and I just mixed it in with my peat moss/perlite substrate.
An update from then, my plant has been growing a lot since I posted this, I got a new grow setup going in a new room, same stuff though. I will post some more pictures later.
Yeah, the tips look a little like nitrogen burning, or to be more precise as Old Goat had posted recently, “nitrogen narcosis”. But that is certainly not your only concern, the mottled uneven coloring to the leaves as well as the kind of deformed and twisted look to the leaves also point to pH problems as well as other nutrient imbalances. pH will contribute to nutrient imbalances all on its own.
A unhealthy plant may not show sex for some time and certainly should not be forced into flower until it has recovered its health if at all possible.
Fresh feces or urine should never be added directly to a plant. The substances should always be processed or composted for a while first and healthy compost will seem like plain soil, no real “yucky” smell left to it, as Old Goat had said.
Thanks, pH meter is on my next thing to buy list. I believe I may have added too much now that I think about it. It wasn’t my idea as I had just mixed in a small handful with the substrate but I also recently moved my plant to a bigger pot, and after that we added a bit more substrate and at the end my brother put quite a bit of manure on the top, like a layer of manure and then a layer of peat moss. If I were to flush my plant with water do you think that might help it? Or how does one go about fixing nutrient burn? First I would like to get a pH meter to see if that is the problem. I have been using tap water that I let sit for about 2 days in the grow room before using it but I’m not sure if it is still hard water or not. It’s confusing because as fast as my plant is showing problems it is also looking very healthy, new fast growth on the top and droopy and dying leaves on the bottom. Driving me nuts!!!
I was impatient and stupid and I tried to clone it. The clones are super small and I don’t have a ton of faith they will make it but I got some root hormone and a cheap cloning kit with these peat puck type things. It almost seems like they’re rooting but I don’t know. Due to my main plants probably I got edgy and wanted something to fall back on rather than start from seed.
After I posted those pictures a few of the fan leaves curled in on themselves, you will see what I am talking about in the photos. I’ve trimmed the tips or entire leave of most of my fan leaves due to the discoloration and curling, is that a yay or nay?
So MacGyver would you consider my plant unhealthy? If I were to flower it in the next few weeks do you think my production would be limited due to the health of the plant? I am not expecting much at this point with all the problems I have caused but it’s starting to get a bit bigger than I would like already and I know it is going to continue to grow during flowering and I don’t want a tree as it’s a closet grow.
So sorry for so many questions guys…I’m just new and terrible at this. Definitely not a green thumb.
Although not quite easy to see you can kinda tell the really dark leaves are caving on themselves, because of that I have trimmed a few of them almost off.
Download and read our free grow book. It will get you started in the right direction and answer a lot of your questions. Yes, super dark green leaves with burnt tips sounds exactly like too much nitrogen, you probably have both, too much nitrogen and a really bad pH. I’m not sure if traditional flushing will help with all the cow manure. It probably will help but you might have just as good of luck trying to remove some of the manure and replant in a normal soil because trying to wash or flush away all the un-composted manure will be doing almost the same thing. You need the plant’s roots to be in a mild stable growing medium to recover best or quickest.
Thank you, I tried doing research on what deficiencies it might have and just got lost in all that.
So once I get a pH meter, how do I measure the pH of my plant?? Do I just measure the water I am using on it? Or can I measure the pH of the soil? I’m confused on how that works.
Both. You measure the pH of the water before you water your plant and you adjust to the correct pH for the media you are growing in before adding it to said media. Target 5.8 for hydro and 6.5 for soil. You measure the water and nutrient mixture after you have mixed your nutrients with said water as nutrients themselves will change the base water’s pH, don’t adjust before mixing nutrients or you may end up having to add more pH adjustment after your nutrients change the pH again. And you check the concentrated run-off of water and/or nutrient mixture after it runs through your soil or media to get an idea of what the pH is at in the root zone in the soil or media.
There are different types of PH meters. Some are purely used for liquid. These are good to test the water that you put in and that comes out of the bottom of the pot. Others have long probes that you stick into the soil. These are okay for early on testing of the soil, but soon enough they won’t reach to the “root zone.” I have both.
Definitely fertilizer burn. Anytime you see the root tips brown and turned down, and the leave is dying from the edges in. “Nutrient burn”!
A mistake I am seeing new growers make is assuming that all issue are deficiencies; When in fact, they are because of adding nutrients too early. I have found through all the years of growing that nutrient issues do not generally surface unless you are not using a well balanced nutrient program.
I am not saying you cannot mix your own soil, ammending soil with manure, epsom salts, etc, etc, but you need to know what you are doing. Best way to learn to grow is to take this equation out of the whole grow, and use a proven soil or nutrient recipe, solution. This allows you to learn to grow the plant, and not worry about what might be going wrong.
Thank guys very much. I am going to start reading the entire grow guide and care guide. It’s weird though because all of the new growth seems healthy, but after a while the tips will begin to curl/turn color or the leaves will get droopy. The only thing is I don’t think there is much I can do about the fertilizer now as it in in the soil beneath the plant mixed in with the root system. Unless I pulled the plant any root system up to transplant I can’t do much. (Or flush it.) Eventually I would think that it would stop burning my plant though right? I want to get some nutrients from you guys but I can’t afford it right now and manure is free to me. Next time I will be mixing it with soil though and not really just dumping it onto my plant and using less. My next goal is to get a pH meter, and hopefully I wont have any more barrages of questions for you guys. I suck at this but with OR legalizing marijuana I am determined to learn to be a pro.
On a different note my pathetic clones are actually rooting! I did not have much faith that they would but this is awesome, as long as I don’t kill them in the near future I should have two more plants in a few weeks. I am almost thinking about taking a few more clones so that I can try different things on each of them. (Mad scientist type stuff without the science)
I really appreciate all the info though guys! You rock!
You can flush it. Use three times the volume of water to soil and flush it with properly pH’ed water.
BTW, in soil, even miracle gro for tomatoes at like half strength or miracle gro cactus drops used as described on the bottle is probably better than manure, especially un-composted manure,and the miracle gro stuff isn’t expensive at all. Lots of people have grown very successful marijuana harvests with these miracle gro nutrients alone in soil. It might not be the best nutrient line for cannabis but it works and people had been using it successfully “back in the olden days” all the time.
Hey MacGyver, I have one more question for you, today we had a moderate wind storm and my power was out about 3 hours…is this going to effect my plant or clones?
It shouldn’t. Disrupting the “day” light cycle is not very problematic. Interruption of the “night” dark cycle can cause problems during flowering, but that is about the only real time you would have to worry about it. If you had a situation where the lights failed for 10 to 12 hours or longer, maybe, as this could cause a plant to go into flower prematurely. But again this isn’t necessarily a problem if it isn’t an ongoing thing. Replacing the failed light or substituting other lights and returning the plant to its proper schedule immediately should prevent any major problems regardless of which cycle or if the disruption occurs during veg or flower.
Erm, yea. So, against your advice might I say, which isn’t a good idea I am sure. I took a few clones and changed this plant to a 12/12 flowering schedule last night. This was the first day it was into flowering which of course is why the power had to go out! I know the schedule is more important while flowering, but about the time the power came back on it was ready to go into it’s 12 hours of darkness, I am wondering if there is any chance it will develop hermaphrodite traits because of the random light schedule? I read that it can stress the plant and cause it.
Stoner, " Will Here " I had a something similar thing happen to me last night I put my 20 W.W. Ladies into 12/12 mode and when I did the lights went out shortly after I left the room this means that the plants were in darkness for 24 hours and to add injury to insult the temp fell to 50 degree’s from 85 I fixed the problem. It was when I pluged the second 1000 watt into the same line as the other one OVER LOAD…they are back online for 12/12 Are my ladies going to be ok?
I know its a hard question to answer, but maybe you or one of your co-workers may have helped someone before who the same problem.
Sorry about this running off at the mouth but i’em very worried about my girls I hope the don’t turn on me.
