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Great tips… I lowered my light and it’s.about 23" away at 50%. Temps are down near 70 now.
I think I am starting to.understand the EC PPM thing. What I don’t understand though, is how balancing the EC ties in with increasing the amount of nutrients you give the plant. So I imagine at first when you give the water only a small amount of nutes it will have a low PPM. Once the plants call for more nutes, the PPM will rise. So I assume plants require different EC-PPM concentrations at different stages?
I am having a little trouble still with the pH. Seems to be turning slightly basic after sitting for a period. I have noticed some of my hydroton rocks getting a little white which is probably salt. Would it be wise to flush the rocks and rooter with some pH water?(not over the reservoir) I know the rooters shouldn’t get too soaked though so not sure.
Hello guys, would really appreciate any help on this one
Have a question about pH, i am wondering if it is in the correct range for my 4 girls
I am not seeing any symptoms of distress with them but i feel they could be better
I have that low tech ph meter with the 2 rods sticking out, i tried it on bottled water and figured out that he reads1 unit less then indicated on the bottle and so i adjust my readings accordingly
So i stick it in the soil after i water the plants and it reads 6.7 or so
Lately it is reading around 7.2-7.3
The thing is when i Test the bottle were I dissolve the nutes and from which i water it indicates smthg like 4?! Is that normal?? And if it is why my soil ph is getting higher if am watering with water that has a low ph?
This is a picture of the girls, 2 Sskunk and 2 WW all autos and fem ( opposite corners) under a 400 wats hps
They are 39 days old since germination and put under scrog 7 days ago, currently on 2-1-4 nute formula with micro nutrients
Looks from the picture they are flowering and in flowering is suggest change the concentration ratio, I’m flowering N should be less than P and K, as for the ph meter id get advise from @MacGyverStoner or @Donaldj
Yes its my last feeding with this ratio, i already prepared a 1-2-4 formula for the next watering ️
Its my first grow indoors and am learning as i go but i would really like to screw up as little as possible
I have noticed ( contrarily to the outdoor plants) tht when i water them it takes them about 16-24 hours to boost up and dont look thirsty anymore, weird… Is that from the pH? Or could it be the nutes concentration? Or I thought it could be the temperature??? What do you think guys
I have one of those probe meters too Marco, I wouldn’t trust it for pH… mine is nowhere near accurate, I only use it for moisture setting.
you can get one of those aquarium/pool test kits for a couple dollars, they are many many times better!
Its because thats how long the plant takes to uptake its nutrients, compared to out door we let nature do the work (those of us who do grow outdoor)
I will get one of those tom, hope wont be hard to find
I put the lights closer, they were way far, 65 cm far, thats too much for a 400 hps, now they are at 38 cm distance, lets see how they will react))
Well they responded wonderfully when i got the lights closer i put them even closer and fed them tonight, hoping for a good surprise when i come from work tom from now on its watching those buds fatning up! And this is my first indoor grow and last outdoor was about 6 years ago so the anticipation is phenomenal
2 questions though:
The super phosphate i bought is like small white pebbles and after 4 days having it in that bottle of water with the other nutes who already dissolved u can still see most of it as white pebbles no matter how much i shake the bottle. Is that normal? Did the P dissolve from the white pebbles or its still there as the pebbles in themselves?
On the other hand one of the girls is showing around 4 leaves curled in, like in the pic i attached, what is that from?? Ph? Fertz overdose or underdose??
The leaf curling is usually due to to much nitrogen but here is a chart
My bets ride on to much nitrogen though buddy
Thank you for the chart my friend
What is weird though that one of the 4 plants are showing these signs ( just a very few leaves) but none on the other 3 and all of them are fed from the same solution
Anyway ill keep an eye on them and here is a picture after i moved the light closer and switched to a 1-2-4 nutes formula)))
PS: i got the pots closer to have the girls under where the 400 hps is the strongest
Yea any time she sure does look good
sorry it took so long to get back to you on your problem …to get a faster reply hit the reply button on this comment in the bottom Right side of this post , itll send a notice to my box so ill know your awaiting a reply … … EC and PPM are 2 different ways to measure the TOTAL of dissolved solids in the water …if you have well water that is 100ppm and you add a total of nutes EXAMPLE ONLY 200 ppm you’d have a total of 300 ppm… SO if you have 1million parts of water and you add 100 equal parts of nutes you would have 100 ppm … now MJ can take a total of 1500 ppm “top end” at that point the water becomes too saline and the plants cant absorb that much nutes and youll get a condition called lock out " … NOW in hydro. its comes into play like this the plants drink a lot of water but don’t use all the available nutes .SO as the water level is decreased the ppm will raise some … so you add water .and measure your ppm and you find it lower than you want …so you add only a little nutes till the level “ppm” , comes up to what you want … this is as simple as i can make it … As to the build up your having if you have well water it will contribute to mineral build up “Salts,” and when you add nutes you’ll see it more … if your seeing adverse affects ,yes just flush it good … some build up is slight normal as the cay pellets wick the water up and evaporate leaveing the residue … Let me know if this helps … if you have questions …reply to the reply button on this post itll show to me faster … Hammer or PM me … peace