Pacific Light Concepts photo boost light strip DIY build

I was saving up for a light from fluence, but @dbrn32 got me again with the diy bug.
These strips boast high efficacy and some great light spectrums. I needed to fill out a 3’x4’ footprint in my flowering tent. This is what I came up with.
10strips run at 1400ma with 2 hlg-185h-c1400 drivers hopefully putting me close to 400 watts at the wall for around $500
It’s on a 30”x46” frame and roughly follows the design outlined on their website.

This is a list of parts, it’s linked at their site.

The heat sinks are awesome, but took a while. They too were back ordered.
Be sure to order extra t-nuts and bolts. They’re cheap if you order them all with everything else… not so much if you forget and have to reorder.

So here’s just about everything I needed for the job.

There will be drilling, screwing, measuring, simple wiring, and basic assembly. Nothing is overly difficult.

The heat sinks require a hole drilled. I measured 3/4” from the end and marked the spot.

This is where you’ll add the screw and t-nut to attach the heat sinks to the crossbar, (which are also awesome).

I punch the spot to eliminate the bit from walking.

You will be drilling into the heat sink fins a bit, so be aware that bits break, (it broke on the last hole)

A little iso alcohol to clean off any residue. Trust me, there’s residue. Don’t skip this step. I also clean the aluminum side of the plc strips.

Apply the double sided heat sink tape.

The strips are 25mm, the heat sinks 25mm, but I couldn’t find 25mm tape, so I went with 30mm and trimmed it.

There will be some bubbles. I used a credit card to gently work most of them off the strip, and a push pin to pierce the bubbles that I couldn’t work out. Then gentle pressure to work the air out.

A little measuring, and then I placed the strips down. Firm pressure on the outer side of the strips. It’s aluminum, no worries, just don’t push on the leds.

Do this on each heatsink. I’ve got 2 strips /hsink. I alternate them.
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The heat sinks are attached to the crossbars with screws and t-nuts. I use a little blue loctite. Nobody wants their lights to fall apart on their plants.

Measure, place heat sinks onto crossbars, measure again, and check for square.


They look great. I can’t wait to see them with power supplied to them.

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Looks good buddy!


Wow, Im impressed! I looked at the DIY QB setups 2 months ago, before purchasing additional 1000w lamps-decided to continue with the lamps from the results of first grow i had indoors with them. Now, Im not sold on the fact the QB is better than the “burple” units i have. I havent used the QB yet, i do plan on trying them out, but to look at the lumens, spectrum of light, UVB, IR, par values etc, 3 of my 1000w will accomplish what you built for $500, and I had delivered assembled and ready to pug in and grow!le for $315. Am I missing something? I like to think i did all the research possible for me at the time and made an educated decision that dollar for dollar in direct comparison, the lamps were the smarter more cost effective means to set up and run. now i see everyone popping up with them, should be interesting to see a few grow results from a QB and compare. Even that can be skewed if the genetics give a boost to some and not the others.
Help me out, why are the QB so much better? And Yes, this is definitely my own ignorance, when i was routinely growing it was outside and I didnt have to worry about it. Still havent found a light of any type that beats the sun!

I started with a 1200watt blurple light and switched over to a DIY quantum board light.

#1- the heat alone that the QB’s put off is worth the money(especially if your trying to control a small environment)

#2- EFFICIENCY!!! You can use half the power the lamps need to run optimal light. Saves money the bigger the area your trying to light

#3-The results speak for themselves. Dense, thick buds with glitter all over them. And any QB grow you see…you will see the plant putting bud sites anywhere they can!!

#4- and finally, the best reason to buy them…because dbrn suggested it lol


I’m so jealous of those PLC strips!!! They are staying sold out. I’m trying to build a light for a 5x5 and wanted to use these. But I may just settle with the gen 3 f series Samsung strips.

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Well just his recommendation alone is worth it’s weight in bud!! Lol!! I do take everything said and recommended here with utmost respect. This is an awesome place to meet others that have done it before, have more experience and knowledge and are willing to share and pass it on to those of us a little less experienced. And even tho i turn 50 this year and have grown forests in the past, that was always outside with grab bag seeds - never knew what would grow! Today on the other hand, the med marijuana has changed the game completely! Auto flower, feminized, a gazillion weird funny ass names for some insanely powerful smoke… and INDOORS! totally different animal.

Now for the lighting, you mention heat- are they hot or not? im having hell of a time keeping my room to 82F or less, sometimes the spike is up to 91! RH has played a roll, i run a dehumidifier, which drys the air to the 45-55 RH mark im looking for in budding stage, but it throws out hot dry air! The1000w blurple at full power throws enough heat, dehumidifier takes it to the next lvl. I did emergency install of 2 -110 cfm bathroom ceiling fans exhausting heat up and out while dryer style covered vents in walls allow fresh air in. 2 - 14" standing oscillating fans keep the 10x14 room circulating nicely - temp now 80-66 for 24hr high/low. I may need air conditioning in summer when temps frequently over 90 and humidity through the roof.

As for efficiency, how does running at half power help when utilizing the intensity of certain wavelengths in the spectrum is how the cannabis develops the qualities we all strive for? I really cant see how a QB can double the intensity, or use half power to get the same intensity as the blurple, its all determined by the amps pushing the watt through the copper into the electronics that feed the diodes of certain colors that produce different wavelengths of color in a certain spectrum.All things considered, some are higher quality than others, without question. But if a certain “weight by watt” is a standard so many attempt to achieve, then the quality of the light and where in the spectrum they fall is the ultimate measure of the lights quality and how it will help or hurt the plants.

Again, i have not yet tried the quantum board, i do plan on it eventually. but to replace the 12 -1000w, dual switch, 3 chip x 5w light emitting diodes (LED) with the same output based on the previous data, would be astronomically expensive in comparison. The unit discussed was around $500, then labor to run around getting parts, then put it all together (properly- or fry the board) and hope nothing goes wrong. The same output can be had with 3 of the burples, at $110 each, free shipping, delivered to your door w a 3 YEAR guaranty. And, i just pulled it up on Amazon, $8 off if you buy black… so call it 300 vs 500… and i have versatility to separate my lamps and use one in nursery during germ/seedling/veg stages while the others continue the bloom so i can have continuous dry bud…

I would love to find a more effective grow light that uses half the power and throws half the heat while increasing the bud size, density and and quantity, effectively doubling my yield, hell that would be worth twice the price. And if there is a QB out there that does this, sign me up, immediately!!

Can anyone explain how the QB is so much better for the plants? Im really interested in cutting my costs of set up and operation, and if QB is the way to do it, im in. But so far, Im not sold…

Idk about running a room that size with QB’s. I mean, obviously you could, and still maintain your need for multiple fixtures that you could move or take in and out. For a room your size, I would probably be looking at LED strips, which is what I’m in the process of doing right now.

As far as the heat goes, I run 4 qb120s and they require no heatsinks, other words they run at full power and you could comfortably lay your face down on them(haha only way I can explain it).

I’m not super hip in how to explain the whole efficiency part. I just see see the amount of electricity I’m using versus what my plants look like and its second to none.

After evenly spacing all the strips/heat sinks, I tighten it all down and plan the wiring.

Get some solid 18g wire. Don’t mess around with the stranded. It’s more work than it’s worth.

I’ll have one driver on each side. So I just connected the neg terminal on one strip, to the pos on the next until I hit the end.

Then hooked the neg to the driver’s neg and the pos to the driver’s pos. Super simple. Wagos make it easy. They’re worth the extra pennies.

Then wire up the input side. Also just neg to neg and pos to pos with a green neutral wire to keep things safe.

I bought a bunch of cheap power strips ($3). I use the cord and throw away the strip.

To mount the driver to the crossbar I used some square nuts and screws. I bought them too long (1/2”), so had to use a nut to space it out.

Repeat the connections to the other side, double check work, and take a step back to admire it.

Fire it up

Yup, it’s bright.

I’m still waiting on my waterproof boxes to house the connections, but I can’t wait to put it in the tent.

Final cost $525± for 400+watts @ around 2.78µmols/j. Yes please.


If I were to do it again, I’d drill 3 holes on the end of each heat sink. 1 for the screw, and 2 to run the connecting wires through. It’d clean up the build a little.

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Now that’s watt I’m talking about. Looks great! Your ladies are going to love the new lights.

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@Back-in-the-Saddle can you post a link to those lights?

The blurples produce more heat.
That’s more watts going into heating and less into lighting.

I can also say I’ve run a 150 blurple next to my 100w diy strip light. The results were the same as far as I could tell. Except less expensive to run the strips. That’s without scientific comparison of the spectrums provided.

One can grow cannabis with blurple panels. Many people do. Right now I’m looking for efficacy. Running 1.5kw/hour adds up.


【Energy savings uses 80% less electricity than HPS/MH】The 1000w LED grow light input voltage AC85-265V, The LED grow light can replace traditional 1000 watt HPS/MH while consuming only 180 total watts! The best hanging height at 24", The core coverage area is 42"42"(3.53.5ft). Maximum coverage area at 65"65"(5.55.5ft). It is more scientifically designed to be more energy-efficient than HPS HID and MH.
lol! thought i still had the url on clipboard!! gimme a min

1000w LED Grow Light with Bloom and Veg Switch,Yehsence (15W LED) Triple-Chips LED Plant Growing Lamp Full Spectrum with Daisy Chained Design for Professional Indoor Plants (1000 watt)

by Yehsence

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| 201 answered questions

Price: $109.99 FREE One-Day
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The blurple uses 80% less energy than a 1000hps because it only draws 180w. It will not, and I repeat, WILL NOT effectively replace a 1000w hps.


the address i used goes into my account and cart, but there is part of the ad from Amazon, you can find it there. if you go to Yehsence website, they have all the technical data. distances from plants and corresponding par values, lumens, wavelength etc…

Talk to me bro! is the hps that much stronger in the IR? I went LEDroute for power savings, 10 yr lifespan, heat/climate control and mobillity. if the hps is that much better, would it be good to add a few 100-300 watt hps?

I feel if you want the best light for your buck and you’re not concerned too much about efficacy, or heat output, cmh is the way to go.

Ahhh!! Damn msg won’t send from PC, is there a character limit? Dont know, have it as draft, will send after work- my lunch is over, gotta go.
Def want to continue this discussion and follow along with your QB grow. I’m always interested in making the set up better, if I should add some then I will. Thanks for this topic and chat so far, let’s continue!:+1: