Thanks @Ozzimotosan1. I just didn’t want to assume. 
. I will post a pic or two. 
Peace brother. 
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My oldest stepson left me a nugget. he texted me to be careful cuz one hit made him go “WTF”.
I’ll take a picture of it. Funny though. He told me 'watch something weird".
Maybe I’ll do two hits and everything will be weird! 
Should be funny. Stay tuned for tonight’s pix. Next post.
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Okay, Here we go!
First pic is my gift bud that I an just waiting to try… (did he know what strain…clueless literally, just makes enough dough to pay whatever).
Next pix except for last one are showing the thickening, and some that look like starter flowering branches. Last one is the overall canopy shot.
Damn. I love this!
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Look at this @Ozzimotosan1 and @Oldguy
Tmor it will be the 2 week mark for.my clone in hydro, unreal 
My other girls are doing beautifully too, Soo much less work with 6.2 gallon pots. Not watering every day like before.
Happy Growing
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I HATE YOU I HATE YOU I HATE YOU…Just kidding, LOL. I love you like a Bro Joe.
That is F’ing AMAZING!!! If I wasn’t growing in a cellar. Do you think if I put the water containers on wood, it would help?
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Please Joe, Give me a brief explanation of the PPM part. I know it means Parts Per Million, and
measure particulates in the water. I also know you want higher PPM at flowering.
What do the particulates consist of?
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Awww thanks buddy…I HATE YOU TOO @Ozzimotosan1 
thats awsome lol
But ya, I didnt think it was possible for them to grow this FAST. Im sold on hydro for sure so far. But I got my other tent up and running yesterday. I am putting 1 more T99 clone into hydro and just put 3 more of the T99 clones into promix yesterday and into tent under 1000w M/H. Wife and kids outta town for a few days so I been givin’er shit getting things done while I can. I am also planning out a new cloner, an aero cloner.
This is this mornings wake up pic 
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Shit, forgot to answer ppm question. As far as the ppm thing goes, I am actually just learninf about that aswell. Just picked up ppm tester about 2 months ago and just started using it. I knw if u get upto 1400ppm run off its gettin too high. I keep my hydro about 800ppm rite now just with food I feed them.
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Ya, sorry bout the “hater” speech. I have just never seen that kind of comparable growth.
Except of course the comparing I can do with the NLXBB and the CH.
The NLXBB is really taking off.
I do need to know soon about how soon I should thin out the big’ens.
Later Dudes!
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So it’s a different ballgame with soil growing as far as PPM, I take it.
I recall one of the pro’s @garrigan62 maybe that told of the soil PPM measurement
technique. I think you need to take some runoff (currently little to none, usually just at flush time), and you take the runoff, filter it through a few coffee filters, and then measure the
PPM. Am I close, oh one of great growing wisdom G-Man?
Never did it, too much work. I was so beat after work today, All I did was water with nutes, check the temp and humidity. Now that Spring is coming to New England, both rise.
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If you all want me to relist that post on PPM I would be more that happy to just say the word and you’ll have it.
Will
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Its ALL GOOD buddy, I can handle abit of “hater” talk 
I kinda hate myself for letting my hydro system sit in my garage fo so long before trying it lol
Picked up supplies yesterday and started making my aero cloner.
Just have to put the misters/sprayers in manifild and drill the holes in lid for the neoprene pucks, maybe today.
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Word. Thanks G-man!
Nice G-Man is reposting the PPM story to help us both out. I got some pix. Allot of growth early on, and wicked thick plants. The thickening has increased after topping. I think I’ll raise the lights a few inches, started the LST, and eager to learn more about the importance, and how-to-do the PPM boosting, or dropping. Right now I just worry about PH, and temp. Has gotten me a good batch every season since 2015, and well on my way to two a year if things go well with this batch. Now, as far as the pix, some show the overall, some the leaf damage, and I have seen no bugs. Can’t say I looked with a magnifier, but we do what we can Here they are:
Okay, that’s it for today 3/14/19.
Wishing all me Irish friends, and relatives a great Saint Patrick’s Weekend!
Let’s brew a hemp infused GREEN BEER!
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Now that I look at that last picture… the leaves are dark green, as I recall when I watered that one last, it got about three times the Seaweed Extract nute, along with a little nitrogen, and phosphorus. Probably seriously OD’ing on nutes. Straight PH’d water for a few weeks
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Here ya go gentlemen as I said more than happy to …
Knowing What Your Plants Are Eating and How Much They Can Handle
October 20, 2016 by Devin Martinez
One big question growers ask is “Why are my plants suffering even though
I used all the right nutrients, feeding cycles, lighting cycles, and adjusted
temperatures and conditions to their absolute best?”
That’s because their pH and PPM levels are off, making it difficult for your
plants to eat. pH refers to potential of Hydrogen ions in your water, which
will determine if your water is too acidic or has too much alkaline in it.
PPM (parts per million) refers to the concentration of minerals and soluble
matter in your watering solution.
Correct pH and PPM levels are the backbone of any grow, and will be the
difference between a healthy grow and a huge waste of time and money.
pH Levels
Simply put: the right pH level will create an environment where your plants
can absorb nutrients quickly and easily, leading to a better harvest.
Nutrient-rich water is filled with elements that are helpful to your plants.
However, if those elements can be broken down properly those same elements
can harm your plants.
pH levels is important to understand because the right level will determine
the quality of helpful bacteria in your water that help break down elements,
helping the metabolic rate of your plants. How? In two ways:?
When pH levels are too low (pH level of around 5 of lower), heavy
metals like iron and aluminum change and can become toxic to your plants ?
If the pH level is too high (pH level of around 6.5 or higher)
elements like calcium and phosphorus can’t be broken down completely, which
will hinder the growth of your plants
This change in properties is due to how acidic your water is or is not.
You’ll want your plants’ nutrients to be a little acidic otherwise they can’t
break down, but too much acidity and your nutrients can become toxic.
So remember: pH too low= toxic to your plants, too high= growth decrease.
That’s why you want to have the perfect level of acidity in your water,
which will be around 5.5-6.0
Typical pH Levels ?
3.5 and below: Root Damage ?
4.0-4.5: Poor Nutrient Uptake ?
5.0-5.4: Good pH Level ?
5.4-5.8: Perfect pH Level ?
6.0-7.0: Acceptable pH Balance ?
7.5-8.0: Poor Nutrient Uptake ?
8.5 and Above: Root Damage
Note: Soil grown plants tend to need a little bit higher of a pH than hydroponics
because soil retains and releases certain elements to your plants at different times.
However, both hydroponic and soil pH levels should stay within the same optimal range
of 5.5-6.0 pH.
PPM Levels
PPM (Parts Per Million) refers to concentration of the particulates in your feeding
solution.
From minerals found in tap water to natural elements found in your nutrients, your
job is to make sure that the PPM levels in your water solution are on point so you’re
not under- or over-feeding your plants. While it’s an easy concept to understand on
the surface, it’s a little more complicated when you have to adjust elements.
Now, pH plays a huge factor in PPM levels because even though you may have the correct
PPM reading, some of the particles- and the concentration of those particles- can be
harmful for your plants.
For example, let’s say your plants need to be at a PPM level of 700. You mix your
solution and you get a PPM reading of 700 but your pH is around 4.5. That means that
the majority of the available food for your plants is likely to have lots of heavy
metals in it, which will quickly toxify the plant. You’ll need to adjust the pH level
of your solution to make sure you’re not toxifying your plants.
“But won’t that throw my PPM levels off because you’re adding particles to your feeding
solution?” It can, and that’s what’s so tricky about PPM and pH levels: When you adjust
one you usually have to adjust the other, which can be simple or a huge pain depending
on the water and nutrients you’re feeding your plants.
Common PPM Readings
These readings reflect the PPM your water should have at a given stage of growth
? Seedlings: 100-250 (nutrients aren’t really needed here, hence there’s not a
lot of particles needed)
? First Half of Vegging Cycle: 300-400 (this is usually after you transplant,
which still don’t require many nutrients)
? Second Half of Vegging: 450-700 (you’ll start giving your plants more nutrients
at this stage)
? First Half of Flowering: 750-950 (your plants will be eating more as they grow,
so they’ll be taking in more nutrients)
? Second Half of Flowering: 1000-1600 (this is when your plant’s eating the most,
especially if you give it additives)
? End of Flower, Entering Harvest: As close to 0 as possible (this is when you’ll
be flushing your plants, so you don’t want there to be a lot of particles left over)
Adjusting pH Levels
When it comes to feeding plants there’s two ways of looking at it: homemade or store bought.
Same goes with balancing your pH: you can either purchase a pH buffer from a store or you
can use ingredients you can find around your home or in the grocery store– but both come
with their advantages and disadvantages.
Homemade pH Buffers
? Advantage: If pH levels are low you can use a little citric acid or even white
vinegar to help bring your water’s pH down. When you need to raise your pH levels you
can use a little bit of baking soda in your solution and bring those readings back up.
This will cost you less than picking up a buffering solution.
? Disadvantage: The issue with using these solutions is that they don’t work for
very long. You’ll find yourself having to add a little lemon juice every other day, then
having to use a little baking soda to even things out. Moreover, we’ve also heard of
growers using these ingredients and seeing severe spikes in pH, which if not handled
properly and quickly and bring your grow to a halt.
Premade pH Buffers
? Advantage: Most hydroponic companies out there will have pH buffers, usually
called . They’re much easier to use than citric acid or white vinegar mixes. They’re
designed raise and lower the pH of your water while keeping your water’s pH levels
balanced for longer than it would be without them.
? Disadvantage: As we’ve always mentioned, easier usually means more expensive.
These solutions usually won’t cost you an arm and a leg, but they’re definitely something
you can’t simply make at home and will cost some money.
Adjusting PPM Levels
Before you start adjusting your PPM levels, you’ll first want to make sure your tap water
is ready to feed your plants. That means you’ll want to adjust the PPM of your base water
before you start feeding it to your plants Now, any time you add anything in to your watering
solution, you’ll be adding more particles in to it, so keep an eye out on your PPM levels at
all times.
? To rid your water of too many particles you can use things like a carbon filter or a
reverse osmosis machine to clean your water. However, many growers agree that most tap water
has helpful minerals (like calcium and magnesium) that actually help plants.
? During and after the vegging stage, your plants will want more out of their feedings
so filtering isn’t really necessary. That’s why we recommend only using filters at the
beginning of the plants life when low PPM readings are needed
? For a quick fix when PPM’s are high just add a bit of fresh water with a good pH
level and watch them drop. Filtered, pH’ed water is great when things get a little too
much in your reservoirs.
? When readings are low it’s usually time to feed your plants. When you add nutrients
to your feeding solution your PPM’s will go back up, and when your PPM’s and pH’s are in
balance your plants are going to be happy and healthy.
? Just remember that these readings need constant adjustment, so if you haven’t been
keeping a close eye on your plant’s PPM and pH levels there’s not better time to start than now.
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