When flipping I like to keep veg nutrients for 7-10 days. Would there be adverse effects by adding bud ignitor, so it’s getting the nutrients for the stretch and the ignitor will help with more budding sites and shorter space between internodes while stretching. Is this OK ?? Suggestions needed !!
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Any advice ?? @Sirsmokes, @Covertgrower, @Mudcrab01 and any like minded Ppl you know who may have something to say on it. Thanks jam
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@Jam… Mate I use initially what is pretty much amounts to a veg booster that I introduce during veg from about four to six weeks in. I use it sparingly at first then work up to full strength and then continue with it and my veg nutes until pre flower like I am at the moment. I then only use it for the next two weeks while slowly introducing the flowering nutes at half strength and then build them up to where I only use them.
I think the budding sites and such really come from the pre work in training ect and nutes can only essentially improve or impact what exists it won’t create new sites. My veg booster that I was talking of has an NPK of 18/3/13.
That said the Mono I use during flowering has an NPK of 0/23/28.
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Thanks and I have been bending and topping for scrog. What is the npk 18/3/13 ? And 0/20/23 ?? Brand names ??
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@Jam the first is a Manutec Product called “African Violet” you can grab that from Bunnings for around $9.
Note that the box in the picture contains the wrong NPK ratio it is actually… 18/3/13 will take a shot of mine for you…
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@Jam the first number Is
nitrogen 18
Phosphorus 3
(K) Potassium 13
18-3-13 (NPK)
This number format is a universal format no matter the brand name. (Even country)
I typically continue veg nutrients for about the specified 7-10 days to give them enough nitrogen during the stretch period. Just like @Mudcrab01 stated.
Once in full flower you’ll reduce the nitrogen to the flowering nutrients. The second set of numbers Mudcrab01 stated. 0-23-20
That way when you reduce the nitrogen you won’t prevent them from flowering, and you’ll allow them to eat them selves up. You’ll see evidence of this by seeing yellowing fan leaves very late in flower.
You’ll also want to increase the PH as you go into flower, nitrogen is absorbed at the lower ph levels, and flowering nutrients are better absorbed a little higher. So if you allow the ph to swing 6.5-6.8 it’ll better absorb more easily phosphorus and potassium.
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The second one I am using for Bloom on this grow is Manutec Mono Potassium Phosphate. I can’t get it local so I grab it online from the Company itself by the carton. Each packet works out around $8 is each.
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