Strain; Type : Purple Haze
Soil in pots, Hydroponic, or Coco? - Hydroponic
System type? - DWC
PH of runoff or solution in reservoir? 6.25ish
What is strength of nutrient mix? EC, or TDS - not sure
Indoor or Outdoor - Indoor
Light system, size? KIND K3 XL 600
Temps; Day, Night - 81, 76
Humidity; Day, Night - NA
Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size - Yes
AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier, - No
Strain; Type : Purple Haze
Looks like the leaves got wet.
Ph to 5.8
Also a fan that blows and makes them wiggle a bit makes the stem stronger. Looks like it tipped over a bit. Need a low breeze
You need to know the TDS of your nutrient solution.
What is the temp of your rez? Do you have air stone in rez? How much? How far below net pot is rez level? All important!
I got a little breeze on them! Thanks! I took that picture when they were asleep, so she was looking a little extra droopy.
Not sure the temp of my res. Should I have a thermometer in them? My air stones are pushing plenty of air through the reservoir and my net pots are about an inch above the water. Here’s my setup:
Any suggestions on what kind of TDS monitor I should get? The one in the right is goldleaf and it is doing great!
Any of the TDS pens on Amazon will work fine. Just get one in PPM 500 scale.
You have to maintain conditions and stay on top of it in hydro. Stuff happens quickly and you can kill plants with one wrong move.
Reservoir temps should be below 70F and should check before root rot sets in (Pythium). If not; you should be running something like Hydroguard as well.
If you can’t keep temps below 70F you should invest in a chiller.
She’s looking better tonight. Still has some burnt ends on her new leaves but it’s better than the older ones.
I bought a Bluelab combo meter: pH, temp, and ppm. Sorry for all the questions, but any suggestions what my ideal ppm should be? I’ll do my own research, but I’m curious what you have to say.
Hydro at that age I’d be at 400 ppm or so. At peak veg no more than 850 ppm. Peak flower 1,100 or less.
Im in hydro, I would be at 250ppm at that stage. 5.8ph
The spots on your leaves are water drops that have burnt the leaf no biggie.
Nutrient burn starts from the tips and works down the leaf…you need to ensure your not over oxygenating the water so adjust your air rock or only have it on for a certain number of hours per day.
Nutrient burn is rarely a pH problem…I use a 3 part chemical regime and even mixed to the exact ml/litre my plants still get the tiniest bit of nutrient burn when changing water. And they have a pH of 5.9
Ideally you want a thermometer in the tent…a humidity reader (they like 60-75% humidity)
Update…I changed my whole system so that I could accommodate a reservoir and a chiller running through it. This project has been a pain in the ass, but I’ve learned a hell of a lot.
I took measurements last night and this is what I ended up with:
EC - 2.6
CF - 26
PPM 500 - 1320
PPM 700 - 1850
Temp - 68
PH - 5.8
Based on what I’m reading, I need to drastically lower my PPM. So, do I just add plain PH adjusted water until I hit the range I’m looking for?
Just take water out ( a gal or so at a time ) and add plain ph water.