Nutrient burn on new transplants


Hi Guys, I’m a complete noob at growing and I need some expert diagnoses of a problem that I recognised this afternoon.

I transplanted 11 of these babies two days ago into a premium, off-the-shelf potting soil. This afternoon I noticed that the bottom leaves on these three were severely burnt (they were perfect two days ago).
Could this be:

a) transplant shock
b) nutrient burn
c) heat stress

The reason I ask about heat as well is because we’ve had a couple of days of really high temps. (38-41 Centrigade)

These are outdoor plants that currently receive 9 hours of direct sunlight and 2 indirect.

I am really worried about these because I have 42 new seedlings that I need to transplant in a week or so.

Please guys, I need some help.


It looks like possible heat stress to me
Also did you leave any water droplets on leaves while sun was shining on them
Also what is the ph level in soil
Issues usually take a few weeks ti show them selves in soul so I don’t think it had to do with the transplanting since it inly been a few days


Thanks for the quick reply!

Water droplets: no (I always water around the stem)

Ph: slightly acidic, sitting at 5.1. The soil I used is bark based

Our water here is from a borehole which is very hard, would that offset the acidity?

Would moving them under 30% shade netting help?

Here are pics of the other ones:
Transplanted this a week ago (5 weeks old)

These were taken right after transplant


That being siad it may be a ph issue as well
In soil you want to be in the range of 6.3-6.8
5.1 is low
What do you use to get tbe ph reading ?


These seem to be doing fine :smile:

Ps: as a remedial, I flushed all the new transplants, would this help in case that aoil mix is too hot?


It would help in a hot soil situation
You can do a slurry test on your soil and obtain the ppm and ph levels of your soil if you have ph meter digital type also a digital tds meter ?
Do tou have either


I use one of the old school dial type ones that a friend gave me. We’re about 200km (120miles) from the closest city, so I know that I need to get a new one.

I stick it straight in and take the reading…


@WhiteMamba my suggestion is get a better meter
Thise dual
Probe soil meters are extremely inaccurate and will cause you to have all sort of issues
We have seen it time after time here on the forum
Do tou have access to Amazon? Or ebay even


Damnit… I’ll make the drive tomorrow and just get the right ph and tds meters.

I transplanted the seedlings into the same soil after germinating in paper towel. I just noticed that a lot of them have purple stems. Could that be an andication of ph as well?


Could also be genetic
Dont panic yet
You seem to have a good crop started there
What tyoe of lights are you start them under ?
And can I ask what area your in
Im thinking maybe Southern Hemisphere?



Sunny South Africa. :wink:

I dont start them under lights, rather, I germinate in p/towel then transplant by tweezer to a bark-based soil in polystyrene cups. I then let them germinate further under 80% shadecloth and once the second set of true leaves appear, I move them to 30% shadecloth.
Then to 5 liter bags and finally to 20 liter buckets under full sun.

Sorry about the late reply; the forum blocked me for sending too many replies as a newbie :smile:


Yeah the more time you spend the higher your trust level will go and your restrictions will be lift
All good bro
Us posted :v:️ CB


The issue has gotten slightly worse since OP.

It seems to have started affecting the larger plants…

I will be getting new ph and tds meters today.

Seedlings are looking great though.

Please let me know if you or anyone has any ideas on this situation.

Much obliged…



You got NUTRIENT BURN going on there. Is there any way for you to change soil ?
Or maybe add other ingredients to your mix so that it’s not so hot
if you can let me know and i can give you a list of ingredients to add ok
You- really need to get then out of that soil.
But don’t panic ok cause that will just make it even more difficult to fix and your plants won’t like it either…lol



On the large ones, I really cannot change the soul right now. But on the medium ones, I can.

Please give me that list of ingredients - I feel like such a dumbass :-(:tired_face:

It hurt my feels when I see them suffer like that.

I also need to transplant my new babies, 42 of them, next week. So it would be awesome id I could get a better recipe for a less hot soil.

Thank you guys so much in advance.



Save this to your file ok
Soil LESS Mix

Mixing ammounts will veary dependeds on how much you make. read instructions on each package for amounts.

1.) Pro Mix BX

Then add-----

2.) ( Mexican Bat Guano )

(10-2-1) This type of guano is very high nitrogen. This makes it perfect for the vegetative stages of growth. Even when the plant is young it can be fed a dilute mixture if the soil happens to contain very little nutrients. This type of guano can be used throughout the vegetative stage of growth.


( Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0.2) This type of bat guano is high in phosphorus. It is perfect for the early-mid flowering cycle once females are well established. )


(because this stuff is so nutritious, the more the better).

Worm poop is gardening gold. Properly known as “worm casts”, what worms leave behind is actually
vital to the soil food web and is one of the key substances to maintaining healthy, nutrient-dense
soil for your plants. To quote from Sustainable World Radio:

“Research has shown that fresh earthworm casts are five times richer in available nitrogen,
seven times richer in available phosphates, and 11 times richer in available potash than the
surrounding upper six inches of soil. […]

Plant roots often seek out available earthworm casts. They follow the worm Burroughs and feed
on the nutrients in the available vicinity even if it means that the roots have to grow upward.”

While growers often spend a significant chunk of change on fertilizers throughout the grow cycle,
adding worm castings to your soil inundates them with the vital, natural nutrients they most desire.


This additive is a nice way to get some additional phosphorous and calcium to your plants. An abundance of phosphorus
is especially important once your plant has reached flowering phase. To again draw from Gardening Know How:

“Using bone meal will help your flowering plants, like roses or bulbs, grow bigger and more plentiful flowers.”

As a flowering herb, the added phosphorus from bone meal helps your plant produce buds that are nice and big.


Blood meal is yet another source of nitrogen. It’s also not vegan/vegetarian-friendly.
Blood meal is made from the dried blood of slaughtered animals, most predominantly cows.
Though the idea behind the fertilizer is a little unpleasant, its well-known natural gardening product.
Because it’s so nitrogen lush, it will help produce extensive growth during the vegetative phase.


7.) Kelp and/or humid acid

Marijuana growers are very smart gardeners. There are a lot of things that growers do to increase
their yields that actually helping to build healthy soil microbiology. Adding kelp meal and humic
acids are some of these tasks. Both of these natural products are fungal foods. The interaction
between your plants roots and soil fungus helps the plant produce the nutrients it needs to thrive.

Kelp also adds a significant amount of potassium and copper to your soil mix.

8.) Epsom salt

A lot of people use Epsom salt to increase magnesium in their soil. As mentioned earlier,
you want to be careful not to add too much. You don’t want to over do it with the magnesium.
However, if your plant is showing signs of a magnesium deficiency, this is a very quick and
easy way to add some back in. Magnesium iscrucial to the absorption of other key nutrients,
like nitrogen and phosphorous.

All about microbes

Subcool’s soil mixture is definitely a good one. As is probably obvious by the various additives
in this recipe, this soil is extremely nutrient-rich. It’s chuck full of natural fertilizers and
makes it easy on the plant to have its favorite nutrients right at its root tips, so to speak.
Many of the extra or leftover additives can then be diluted with water and sprayed on during
the grow cycle as fertilizer.

If there’s one downfall to this recipe, it’s that it relies heavily on organic additives over
encouraging microorganism growth. In a plant’s natural environment, they get vital nutrients
from synergistic interactions between the plant and other organisms in its ecosystem. Plants
photosynthesize sunlight into sugars, and these sugars are in turn secreted by the roots. This
is a much more consciousprocess than commonly believed.

A plant can make an extremely wide variety of sugars and secrete them to attract specific types
of bacteria and microorganisms to its roots. These bacteria then eat these sugars, called exudates.
Through the bacterial metabolic process, essential nutrients like nitrogen are created for the plant
to use. Yet, nitrogen isn’t the only nutrient created through this process. This is how much-needed
vitamins and trace minerals make it into your plant.

9.) Dolomite lime

Recommended amount: 1 cup

Dolomite lime adds calcium and magnesium to your soil. Like rock phosphate, dolomite is also
a kind of mineral rock. It’s used to counteract mineral leaching. It also helps keep the
soil from becoming too acidic. Be careful not to add too much, though. It has high calcium
to magnesium ratio, and you may risk adding too much magnesium to your plants.

Azomite (trace elements)

Azomite is a brand of trace minerals. It’s mined from volcanic rock and contains over
70 minerals and trace elements. This particular brand is mined in Utah and is used to
re-mineralize soil. The product contains everything from gold, silver, and selenium
to potassium, choline, copper and calcium. Adding a few trace elements into your
increases the diversity of nutrients available to your plantss.


Marijuana growers are very smart gardeners. There are a lot of things that growers do to increase
their yields that actually helping to build healthy soil microbiology. Adding kelp meal and humic
acids are some of these tasks. Both of these natural products are fungal foods. The interaction
between your plants roots and soil fungus helps the plant produce the nutrients it needs to thrive.

Kelp also adds a significant amount of potassium and copper to your soil mix.



@garrigan65 keep in mind hes in South Africa and may nit have access to all the stuff we do
Seems like everyone in that general area has a issue locating materials just a fyi
@WhiteMamba Garrigan is the man and is a vault full of knowledge it’s scary how much this cat knows hahaha
Happy growing guys



I know where he was at and he replyed like it wasn’t a problem, but you know me…haha I was ready if he couldn’t get any of this stuff and i’m still ready with a link for he just in case he needs it…meeeeeeow lmao


Lmfao Perfect :ok_hand:


:sweat_smile: yeah, a little backwater farm in the middle of nowhere.

But yeah, I can get some of the stuff.

  1. Perlite
  2. Vermiculite
  3. Lime
  4. Epsom Salt
  5. Peat moss
  6. Potting soil
  7. Micro Nutrients

The rest is almost completely unavailable to me.

I have my own LARGE Compost heaps theat are augmented with Sheep manure.

The reason that I have not planted in my fields is because they are all extremely heavy clay and they dont drain well at all. I use them mostly for Lucerne (alfalfa) under pivot irrigation.

Would I be able to flush the excess nutrients from the soil for the ones that are affected?