I use RO water, I water every 4 days, with a gallon of water each time.
I’m using ProMix soil, with some added perlite.
I’m using Down to Earth amendments, Bio Live. Rose n Flower mix, Bat Guano, worm castings, I also put some epsom salts, and some gypsum in my mix. I let it cook for 2 weeks. I alternate my waterings with silica, Recharge, and Molasses. I use silica by itself. I’ll use Mammoth P in flowering, and I got Incredible Bulk, which i’ll try for the first time in flower as well.
I’m using the Viparspectra XS 2000, at about 80-85%, 27 inches away.
Environment is 77-81. Humidity between 40-50%
Keep the soil moist. Never dry out for living soil. I water a little every day. A clump test works. If you squeeze the soil and it clumps its good. If it does not clump it is too dry.
This is gonna cause some problems, unless two things are done. 1) add missing minerals like, silica, calcium, magneesium, boron, Iron…etc etc…
2)add enough of said minerals to bring tds up too 300-350ppm. To make the water PH stable. Its alot easier using dechlorinated tap water
Not using ph stable water will put you into a bad soil ph which can make nutrients unavailable even though they are there.
I dont know about putting straight epsom in the soil mix.
With all that stuff mixed in Id be willing to bet the water is your biggest issue.
Ive not used down to earth at all but Im sure there is someone who does around here. Lemme tag a few popular growers see if they know anyone, or can offer some better assistance. @Covertgrower@MeEasy@Borderryan22@Graysin
That’s why I put epsom salts and gypsum in my mix, to account for the calcium and magnesium that is lost with RO water. My water ph is right at 7, which I was told numerous times the buffers in super soil will get the ph to where it needs to be. In my opinion, I’m either letting my soil dry out too much and the microbes are dying off, or my ratios of each amendment are off. Im not sure how to keep the bottom part of my soil constantly moist, so the microbes don’t die off, without overwatering.
That reading is unstable. This is the part most people dont get about RO and Distilled. Without at least 300ppm tds then your water is not PH stable. So it is actually un-ballanced at 7. So, instead of adjusting the medium you’re pouring into the medium adjusts your liquid. This can cause alot of problems, especially since you have all this dry ammendments(nutes lower ph of water and soil). Sure the buffers in the soil will handle some of the work getting back to the PH you want but skew it too far and you will have a problem getting back to where you want to be. Im suggesting this as a reason why your plants growth has slowed.
Been following this and worked pretty good so far its weird too me too. Trial and error right?!?!
The recharge will handle refreshing everything while you get the hang of it.
I appreciate your help and advice. This is why I’m probably gonna switch back to synthetic nutrients. There is so much conflicting information about organics. I have been told to use RO water with organics, because my tap water has over 300 ppm in it. I was told that’s overkill with all the nutrients that are already in my soil, and I shouldn’t need to add anything else. I thought the beauty of using super soil was you didn’t have to ph your water? My previous grows I always ph my water between 5.8-6.3 and I still had issues.
I have found bottom watering by wicking to be particularly helpful with living soil. In grow bags you can see the water line wick up the side. I usually let it go up about 1/2-3/4 the side of the bag. The rest of the soil seems to equalize RH in a few hours after. Keeps the bottoms from sogging and the soil tops from parching.
As long as it’s not too extreme. If your water comes out as calcium lime soup you may have to get it into the 7 range first. Up in the 8 is too high for the soil microbes to do it quickly. They will do it slowly, but slower plants is the result.
I might try switching to my faucet water. I have a zero water filter. Probably not much different than tap water, but at least it removes chlorine and I don’t gotta let my water sit for 24 hours. I’m gonna take the advice from the above comments. I did a lot of research on RO water, and I’m pretty convinced it was a ph issue. I wondered why the ph fluctuated so much, so fast. Now I know why. This is why I come here, people know their sh*t.
I am going to follow your advice. I did a lot of research on RO water, and what you said was what I found as well. Not saying I didn’t believe you, I just wanted to know for myself too. You gave good advice, so thank you, and I hope other people with the same question see this thread.
I quit using RO a few months ago now because of the constant adding of cal and mag. That zero filter will land you in the same place as the RO (being too devoid of dissolved solids) Its too good!
I got a 5 gal water jug and a small fishtank pump to dechlorinate my water, gets done over night with the pump (unless chloramine, which I dont have)
Get a pump with two nozzles and you can do 10 gal of water in 8-10 hours.
Dang sorry I just saw your message. They are still growing. I’m gonna get a pretty good yield, but they are both on day 88 from the day they sprouted. I’m seeing some amber trichomes, some milky, and a lot of clear still. One plant definitely used up all the nitrogen, and the other is starting to yellow. I’m not sure why they are taking so long. I was gonna harvest tomorrow (March 25) but now i’m thinking of waiting a few more days.
I try to keep my lights over 20 inches away. There have been a few times they were like 16 inches for a few days, before I raised them. Lights are definitely something I haven’t really figured out yet. As far as distance away, or how much intensity.
last year and some bounced back
