To @Hellraiser 's point, soil adjustments take time. It’s possible your pH contributed to a low nitrogen uptake. It’s also possible that your soil is overly bacterial instead of fungal.
IMO, and I’m far from the last word on this, nothing appears to be critical. I would try to maintain the course for another week. Would it be possible to photograph the plant under a more natural or cool white light?
Thanks @Hellraiser, I’ll get back on the foliar spraying at lights out, they seemed to respond to that before - the lower regularly treated leaves were headed back to regular dark green. They started to act over watered so I stopped spraying. Thank you sir, always appreciate the advice - enjoying the gorilla glue post you have going btw!
Thanks @KeystoneCops I’ll def maintain the course, don’t wanna do any more damage to the poor girls lol. Makes me feel better nothing looks imminent… Patience is something I’ll have to learn! I’ll pull them out and photograph under normal lights - running a couple HLG rspec’s.
Thanks - you may save my ladies yet!!!
Depending on your other environmental conditions, this could be an invitation for really nasty molds. I would not.
I made a foliar application of BT today outdoors. I chose to do it at sunrise, while the light is very mild. If you must foliar spray, could you do it during lights on but outside of the tent? Maybe move the plants to a bathtub for an hour?
That’s for sure a magnesium deficiency.
Make sure your ph is spot on. Could be a lockout if ph is off.
@KeystoneCops @Hellraiser That was a concern when I was doing the foliar spray before, I trimmed them up a little for air flow, and have 1 fan on the floor pointed at each lady, so 2 floor fans, 2 clip fans higher up to move the heat from the lights and puts some air on the drivers, so constant air. 4x4x8 tent with 350 cfm fan, waiting for a 770 cfm filter to upgrade to my 850 cfm fan. Humidity stays around 45-50%, temps 73-80 (night and day humidity stays the same, day time temp hits 80 briefly and at night it gets to 73 room temp). It’s usually 45-50% humidity in my living room lol. Here are the best natural light pics out of the tent I could get, sorry there are so many!! I can def take them out of the tent to apply the foliar spray…
Considering a flush with sledgehammer
Sometimes a flush/ph reset is best.
Took them out of the tent and foliar sprayed, allowed to full dry off before putting back in, with a large floor fan blowing on them for 30 mins after I thought they were dry. I was surprised at how light the pots were, I think I actually need to water more frequently- they perked up a bit after the spray… May be sagging from lack of water… may sledgehammer flush this weekend just to be safe.
Really enjoying your guide (for lack of better term) @Hellraiser - was able to see the type of myko you are using from the photo - wish I’d seen it before I got started, great idea on transplanting too… now if my local store would get happy frog back in stock - sell it for $29 per 1.5 cubic foot bag!!! Tempted to clean them out next time they have it…
What is the rationale for using saponin?
@KeystoneCops Repeated pH issues and concern for lockout. I’ve read some bad stuff about SH, so I’m on the fence right now. I believe flushing is generally something reserved for near flowering time to drain the nutes, but I can’t seem to get the pH up, or the plants to properly absorb all the nutes in balance. Cal/mag issue is due to constantly low pH levels. Added some dolomite lime, will see if additional amounts are needed. Do you avoid flushing additives generally?
Remember, the corrections take time, and soil pH is very forgiving. As I said before, give it at least a week, but preferably two of the current course. I’m not seeing anything critical; you’re in veg, and you can get these issues worked out before flowering.
Yes, I generally avoid the practice of “flushing,” and if a nutrient program calls for a periodic flush that’s a red flag for me.
Fox Farms being the most prominent company that does this.
Decided to not use the SH. Did a little trimming of lower branches &dying leaves. Went ahead and started LST as well, certainly opened up the inside for air flow.
Did a flush, but just with water - 3 gallons through both plants with dolomite lime. Didn’t want to go more than that. Got the pH up to 6.09 and 5.94. Progress at lease. Hard to be patient and remeber I’m still a few months from being done…
Thanks for the assistance, I’m sure I’ll be back…
Well, shockingly, the lst is already at work, I can see where the tied down branches are already facing up instead of out, amazing how quickly they grow and respond! Keeping the course, with fingers crossed! Going to just keep up with the lime until pH shows a steady 6.5.
Finally had it at the local garden store - $25 for the big bag!
2 weeks on and she was looking terrible. Tacoing leaves, brown spots galore on older leaves, sagging, but still growing… much taller but sad, raised the lights about 2 feet in the last 2 weeks, tops are getting a bit tall… Trimmed off the worst leaves, left the new growth in hopes it will help make up for the loss of the big old leaves…
Did a SH flush - used the amounts on directions for first gallon, followed with second pH’d gallon of water, followed by third with full treatment of boomerang & cal/mag. Will see how they look when the lights kick on shortly - plus a half hour to wake up. Will post a couple pics over the next couple days for progress in case any one else is considering a SH flush, just be sure to add nutes back in the final gallon - from “to flush or not to flush” topic.
They are drinking the water in about 3-4 days now, wondering if I didn’t overwater, but have been under watering?? - was waiting a week between for both the 3 and 5 gallon fabric pots… guess I should stick to the water when can easily lift the container.
Day 3 after flush, even more improvement! Lower leaves going back to dark green - most likely from treatment over last 2-3 weeks.
