Hello. I’m on my first grow just approaching 3 weeks in! Just repotted two days ago and have a couple questions from here. I’m growing in a 3x3x6 tent. As you can see I have three plants I’m growing at them moment. Am I going to be able to continue with all three or will I not have enough space? Also is my setup adequate for what I got going on right now? And my final question, I had some yellowing show up the day following the transplant. Could this be from being so close to “hotter” soil? Please ask any questions you have and make any suggestions you can think of.
Seeds: super lemon haze autos
Light: 1000w LED
Week: 3
Soil: 50/50 light warrior and happy frog
Temp: 74-84
Humidity: 65-85Uploading: F6A3E1FF-9EFC-437E-9C8D-3AFABC049498.jpeg… Uploading: 56004F07-CCBA-4CF8-9602-7B2F96392003.jpeg… Uploading: 59C34AE7-E83E-4009-AF3E-71BD3098D556.jpeg…
You have to wait to allow the pictures to fully upload.
How about filling this out and include details like WHAT soil, WHAT lights and their TRUE wattage etc.
pics didnt upload. wait till you see the pics show up to the right. agree with myfriends410 on filling this out with details. just copy it, fill it out, then paste it here
What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed
Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF
Vessels: Pots, Grow beds, Buckets, Troths
PH of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable)
PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable
Indoor or Outdoor
Light system
Temps; Day, Night
Humidity; Day, Night
Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
Co2; Yes, No
@Myfriendis410 @ggc1962 The soils is 50% of fox farms light warrior and 50% fox farm happy frog mixed together. All organic
The light is 1000w fineest… not sure how to find actual wattage
Seeds are auto flower super lemon haze from seedsman online
Vessels: all three started in pear pots. One I flipped and place in cloth pot. One I flipped and put in the plastic pot. The third I kept in the peat pot and moved it into the cloth pot directly.
Water ph: about 6.8 before watering I haven’t tested runoff…
Ppm: no meter yet but will be buying soon
Indoor
about Temp day: 84. Night: 74
about Humidity day: 80. Night: 70
No vent a/c or co2 was on a budget
Am using a humidifier as you can see when I pot pics and a small fan.
Your biggest limiting factor is going to be your light, your 1000w led is 180 actual watts, which is not enough for lighting up a 3x3 tent for best results (yield), specially since its a blurple led. Also, you are already pushing the temps and humidity which means your ventilation system is probably inadequate, get more fresh air coming in and warm air going out.
And adjust your water ph to 6.5
As @Hellraiser said, your light is the limiting factor. Remember that the plant uses light to fuel it’s metabolic processes: more light means more moisture moving from roots to canopy, carrying with it nutrients to supplement the sugar production in the canopy. If you lack sufficient light the plant can’t use the nutrients so a nominal amount in proper lighting means potential issues/nute burn in another with lesser lighting.
The rule of thumb is 50 plug watts per square foot. You have 9 square feet so 450 watts of TRUE light are needed to grow dank.
The ones you want to avoid are just those lights you have now: false advertising has bit most of us in a tender spot haha and had to replace with decent lighting.
You do need to exchange air used in your grow space; more important the bigger the canopy. A 6" fan with speed controller to pull air out of the tent is really a necessary component. Ideally you would exchange the air once every 2 minutes or so. CO2 is only used in a closed loop system with HIGH partial pressures (lethal to animals and people FYI) and VERY high intensity lighting. You can’t derive a benefit unless you meet those parameters.
do you like mixing the soil better than layering it?
This is my first grow so I’m not sure of the difference… what do you prefer?
Okay I have my tent within my garage which has a space heater. I can lower that to lower the overall temperature easy. So that is an easy fix. @Myfriendis410 what is a cheaper option of moving air? I have a fan pulling air in… would buying a second small fan to pull air out work? I’m a college student on a budget haha
i copied someone else and did the ocean forest at the bottom happy frog in the middle and light warrior at the top. i didnt have to add any nute until half way thru flowering the first time. the second time i mixed them up and and fertilized and burned the crap out of my plants. thats how i ended up in promix organic because i had to pull them quick
Yes, and you can find some inline 4" for pretty cheap too.
Okay I will definitely layer next time! Thank you! That makes a lot of sense!
So would I use that to move out of the room? Or am I fine as long as u get it out of the tent? And if my light is not sufficient, what would be good enough for the size tent I have (3x3x6) and cost effective?
i had my budget destroyed before i could get decent lights. i used shop lights cfls long led lights anything i could get my hands on at first. my harvest was great for me only because i actually finished it. great lights are no joke they are super important and they are on my wish list
Your seedlings look good ! Personally I would remove out of the cardboard seed cup. could possibly get root bound. Good luck.
So I thought ahead and cut out extra cut outs all around to create plenty of area for the roots to spread! The peat pot should eventually breakdown… I wanted to try to keep the stress lower and experiment a little.
The good news is that light can veg for a month or more until plants get bigger. I’m not really a fan of the blurple light fixtures for the reasons stated above and because there is much better available. Lights from Horticulture Lighting Group, CHILled Logic, Spider Farm etc have near-latest tech LED’s which are like night and day (pun intended) compared to the China lights. Plus; you can run them down around 30 watts/square foot for better flower production than your current tech can do. But requires a definite investment.
I’m not really the best to answer this; @dbrn32 is. But I’ll give it a ‘layman’s’ shot haha:
The lights coming out of Asia use diodes that are about 10 generations behind the current diodes. What you have is slightly less in efficacy than Metal Halide/High Pressure Sodium (a standard for many years). Latest generation LED’s are far more efficient now and set the standard. A properly set up light will have a spectrum designed specifically for growing. Plus; lights are most efficient running below 75%l or so of output so you save even more. There are no fans so they are quiet and the coverage can be exceptional, depending on fixture.
You will have to get smart on such terms as “Color Rendering Index” (CRI)and “Photosynthetically Active Radiation” (PAR). Spectrum peaks are in the 3,000K or 3,500K range and flower off as well as veg. They really are completely different animals.
Unfortunately that light won’t be quite enough. You should be somewhere around 250 watts in that space minimum with high efficacy lights. That’s only 100 watts.