@Beefy do that bro, we like a man with a plan up in here!! Bring it grow it and then f-ing show it lol!!! 
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Girls are looking good and healthy
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@Fieldofdreams I promise I will, but not tonight lol. Sorry, I do have a plan. Even if it changes a little as I progress, the outcome is what’s important. It just didn’t come together yet.
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Thank you @SilvaBack203. I’m trying to keep them alive and preferably healthy but, also learning more this grow than previous grows.
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Thats all we can do really
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I say I’m not new to growing, but I’m not a pro by any means either. Some very early success outdoors without a whole lot of knowledge. Some more success indoors with the help of forums many years later. All in all, only 2 to 3 years actual growing experience spread out over…well, a long time 
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I learned this week that ocean forrest with just water is sufficient for 3 weeks for the most part. If you use a container with enough soil in it lol. That said, I probably should have bought some party cups.
Nitrogen was depleted and they yellowed a little. I gave them a weak dose of nutes yesterday just to get them to today.
Today is roughly 3 weeks in soil and I treated the girls to a transplant. I think they’re going to like this. They’re chillin in the bigger tent right now.
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Good Morning looking good 
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Looking good and healthy
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Hello ILGM!
Lets recap before today’s update.
5 weeks ago today we started with 2 strains. Girl Scout Cookies and Runtz. 3 of each took a dip in water. 3 days later 2 more of each snuggled into warm, wet paper towels. Between the following Monday and Thursday a total of 6 seedlings emerged from starter plugs. Monday was GSC 3 and Runtz 2 and 3. By Thursday we had GSC 4 and 5, along with Runtz 4. From this point forward we’re going to say these sisters are the same age. Close enough.
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The grow room design started with, other than tents and general supplies, an exhaust hole. Coming from hid lighting lol…enough said. Very quickly realized heat was not going to be much issue anymore, for now. Controlling humidity is what’s going to be the main focus. Both creating and holding on to it while still circulating air through the tents.
It has been a challenge but things are under control and soon we’ll be dealing with getting rid of humidity.
One week ago we had our 1st transplant and everything is looking good I think. Still dealing with some stretching. It would be ok if it was Runtz 4 but…, GSC 3 continues to try and be the biggest big sister of everyone.
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Don’t worry though, that exhaust hole will get used. Next week we should see more of that setup. NOT the final phase, just another step.
Everything so far has been tweeked and adjusted by me. Other than a timer for lights/humidifier and a blower for circulation. The main tool I’ve used for temperature and humidity monitoring is…
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Like I said, temperature is not really an issue…mostly lol. The sun late afternoon early evening does warm things up a bit. The room is kept closed with the 1 vent in the room open. This helps to make the room a buffer for the tents. Running my air-conditioning at 70-72°F and keeping the blower on manual helps with those warm afternoons. It also humidifies my house lol. Not what i wanted for summer, but we’re almost done with wanting humidity in the garden.
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I wanted to learn and to give the plants more of what they need this and future grows. That’s what’s happening too. I recently learned about VPD. What’s this you say? Yes…vapor pressure deficit. Another tool for healthy happy plants? I’m in!!
A little confusing and eye-opening. I never gave humidity much thought other than seedlings and late flower. My earlier indoor successes may have been due to growing in a basement. Damp and cool combined with a 400w hps in an 8sq ft cabinet worked pretty damn good. Now I have to consider leaf surface temperature too? Alright…, what are some typical values? I found various answers anywhere from -5°c to the same or higher than air temps. Even found some infomercials from light manufacturers lol. They might be true but i don’t own your lights so…nevermind. Sometimes research is fun, other times you just want the answer. My answer…
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I can now tell you a Bloomplus xp3000 led falls into the (-1)-(-2°F) range. That’s right out of the box no adjustments to emissivity. I’ll do some reading and try to get a better feel for the gun. I’m just happy to have a number to start with for now.
Back to exhaust and temperature, this is going to come into play more as we get closer to flower. In anticipation of that, I made 1 more purchase that should help.
It’s smart like all of us lol. It’s wifi, it has an app. Been playing around with it and I’m diggin it. Right out of the box it agrees with the smartro. Both sense temperature and agree with in a tenth of a degree…when things are nice and stable. Smartro is more for monitoring temp in general. Along with humidity I’m fine with that. Inkbird is fast to respond to small changes. Did someone fart in the garden? The temp just went up 3 tenths lol. Anyway both are going to be money well spent I feel.
I’m also learning about Leaf VPD & leaf surface temps, & had been running HPS for years until my most recent grow where I switched to LEDs. I would be interested to know what you find with your numbers.
You might check out the VPD calculator on the dimlux website & the dynamic VPD chart at VPDchart dot com. No affiliation to either, I just find those calculators helpful especially if you know your LSTs.
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@PhotoFinisH apparently we’re walking the same path. Glad you stopped in. Learning and sharing is what it’s about for me so, here goes.
It’s still very new to me but, so far I see it as another guide in the right direction. The charts, no matter which one, all tell me I need more humidity than I thought. They also cover a pretty wide range of temperatures. I don’t have kids, stick with me here, but I’m treating this grow like I would hope I’d raise some. I want to give them everything they need to be the best they can…but…within reason 
That said, my humidity should still be in the 60’s according to the chart I’m looking at. Are yhey going to get that? Sometimes. Not going to lose sleep if they don’t. You have water in your soil, drink it lol. I’ll control their living conditions to an extent but, I’m not going to baby them.
Anyway, not sure that’s what you are looking for. I’ll share more as I learn more. The chart I’m looking at is from Pulse Labs. It’s for veg and leaf temp adjustment of -2°F. I did download a vpd calculator too. Cannafuse.life I think, it’s on google play. Just what I ended up with. Let me know if I can give more information. Like I said, it’s still new to me and I still have lots to learn in general, but that’s what we’re here for.
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Just interested to see the numbers you get. You might find that you’ll need higher air temps than before, if your leaves are running cooler under the LEDs vs. HIDs. Set your LED light where it needs to be (PPFD meter helps here), maybe try setting your air temps to the old HID recommendations of 78-80f, & see where the LSTs end up at the top of the canopy. You want to record your air temp & RH numbers from the top of the canopy also. What are the best numbers? Really depends on the plant. For leaf surface temps I think 70f thru 80f is probably a safe range to stay within, with 70f being slow growth & 80f being fast growth. With air temps I’ve been able to push higher than the typical standard recommendations for HIDs, in order to try & raise my LSTs. But the leaf surface temps should always be lower than the air surface temps. I also saw a recco for LSTs to be higher than air temps, but I think that is possibly bull or at least not applicable to LEDs. Maybe HIDs could end up like that & still be OK.
End-goal is to look at your Leaf VPD as your target VPD, & you need your LST to calculate that. Personally I stopped looking at static charts with one baked-in LST offset, & now I just use the calculator, because it’s too easy to end up looking at a chart with an incorrect leaf temperature offset. If your air temp is 80f & your leaves are 75f & you’re looking at a chart with a -2f offset, you’re off. It would need to be a -5f offset chart, & that would only work for that -5f leaf temp offset. Not to mention a lot of charts are out there with no mention of what offset they were generated with. You can bang it back through the calculator & compare to a zero-offset chart to figure it out, but at that point you may as well forget about the charts anyway & just be using the calculator in the first place. With the calculator you can just enter in your data & it gives you your correct Leaf VPD number. Also people mention sensor placement & that is important also. At the very least you want to have your air temp & RH sensors close to the top of the canopy, & I found that putting a shade above my sensors under direct light helped them from getting heat-soaked. Once the light is set up how I want it, I started by trying to figure out the hottest LSTs on my canopy top & worked from there. It is definitely hard to get to the ‘best’ Leaf VPD & sometimes I can’t due to RH not doing what I want it to (no dehumidifier here), but once I saw that good Leaf VPD is the end-goal, & the LEDs potentially running cooler LSTs than HIDs with all else being equal, & wanting to get away from static charts with unlisted/ incorrect LST offsets is why I started paying more attention to getting real LST readings & running everything through the calculator.
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