New leaves of seedling are yellow with brown at the bottom (LED light burn?)


#121

Today pics after watering

:crossed_fingers::v:


#122

Honestly very surprised you had ANY living plants after 10+ PH.
Paper strip PH method is a really bad thing. Digital PH meters n PPM set costs $20 online…Amazon n Ebay.

Good Luck


#123

Hi @whopee
Sorry to hear the Ph condition.
It looks like you are at a critical time, in flower, to be having Ph issues. Your plants look like they are holding up very well considering the Ph issue. ( I would have thought that high of a Ph would have done more damage)
Mostly the only thing I can say is that you might consider getting a better method of reading Ph. I use the Apera PH60 meter and calibration solution.
This is the one I use now,

But I think I will upgrade to this one when the probe wears out, the probe is replaceable for $33.00, I just am looking at the extra features of this one,

Might seem kind of pricey, but consider what a successful grow is worth to you. I am not claiming either of these to be the best, just sharing that they do seem reliable. Whatever you choose, it will be better that Ph paper test strips.
Actually, after looking at the pictures, I would guess your Ph was not as far off as the strips had you thinking. If your Ph was actually that high, nitrogen uptake would have been near or completely cut-off and your leaves would have gone yellow and the plant most likely would have died.
If it were me… I would dive in and get a decent meter and go from there.
Two things you will find out.
1] if you opt to purchase a cheap Ph meter, it will give you false readings, even after calibration. Very few of them work accurately. That is what I did, now I have three of the cheap yellow pens that I will never use again when all I needed to do was get a good one to begin with. Your new pen will come with calibration powders supplied, mix as directed with Distilled water.
2] you will wind up needing a better pen, so add the cost of the cheaper pen to the price of the new one, that is what you actually paid getting a better Ph pen.
Save the wasted step and get a decent one to begin with, what’s your crop worth to you?
It seems that maintaining the proper Ph in the soil is one of the keys to a successful grow.
Next, ( again if it were my plants) if you calibrate your new pen and it shows your run-off being that high, a slight flush will not do. You will need to be a bit drastic in getting it in range. Doing this (if out that far) is going to slow your plants to a near stop for a bit, and it will reduce your yield. But it might save your plants from dying off completely. Although, again, I do not think your Ph was that far off, just a bad reading.

Later, as you learn the characteristics, you might find you will not use your pen near as much, you will know about what the plants need and will probably only use a pen occasionally just to check on things or to help diagnose a problem.
These are just my ideas on it. More experienced growers can give better and more accurate/complete information.
Good Luck with it.
MC

p.s… ask one of the Mod’s or Mentor’s how to purchase through the ILGM forum website. It helps to support this forum and does not cost you anything extra.


#124

Yeah man, I need some electronic device there…

Although these papers give me some range I can see a picture somehow, Digital ph is a must to have.
I wonder, how much in average does runoff ph relate to soil ph close roots? Any investigations seen on the issue?


#125

The first of the runoff should be pretty close to showing the Ph in the soil.
When I used paper strips, it was always hard to tell exactly to read the strip. Seems it is like 15 seconds after dipping the strip, and do not stir with the strip, just dip it. The package should have the specific instructions.


#126

@PurpNGold74 @Countryboyjvd1971 @tanlover442 @Redeyedranger @DTOM420 @blackthumbbetty @TxGrowman @Noctis420 @MindlessCorpse @TDubWilly

Hola Amigos! :hugs:

Age 101 / in the middle of Week 4 (25 days) 13/11.

We continue to move through bloom stage :weight_lifting_woman:, got lil yellowing at the bottom early fan leaves mainly, but buds seems like starting to grow bigger from now on!


There is a very pleasant moment I wanna share - I switched to GHE & Advanced Nutrients products:

  • GHE Flora 3-in-1 base nuts;
  • AD Cal-Mag-Xtra (Ca+Mg+Fe+Micros+Amino Acids supplement for RO water);
  • AD Revive (First Aid / Foliage supplement).

Seems like a good pick for me as a newbie and not that much to spoil the medium with my butter fingers :grinning:


Last movements
Yesterday I made a lil flush ~20 L (18L pot size) with RO water / ph runoff=8 / ppm runoff=200 at the end of a day.
Then added AN Revive 100% by Roots (ph5-6) and 100% by Foliage (ph7-8) + Mycoz bacteria for the night.
Btw, 4 days ago I feeded her 50% old Bloom nuts (2,5:4:5) for vegetables by Roots.


Plans
Giving 2 days break for now before next feeding:

  • 1L RO water easy flush
  • 1L Solution (50%Flora base nuts [Gro-25%] + 50%Cal-Mag-Xtra + 1ml Honey) by Roots

Different GHE Flora feeding charts
Found 4 different Feeding charts like: original GHE for drain-to-waste mediums, Growweedeasy chart (GWE), Lucas formula and Tableau K.

  • Can’t get what “Tableau K” schedule is, found it over web due to Nuts dealer advice (stated to start from 50%).

I’ve made a kind of comparison of these feeding tables to make my mind on what to choose and for better understanding - found Tableau K schedule as interesting, but looks like GHE & GWE recommend lower dosages and the thing I liked - GWE combines it with Cal-Mag.

Also GHE recommends to feed like up to 1-3 times in a row before just watering and GWE says to switch 1/1 - that is very complicated point for me as number of feedings increases dosages per week in numbers.

Feels like it should be controlled at hand inspecting visual state of the plant and the dosages in feeding schedules mainly control the Solution not to ger Hypertonic and get the plant Plasmolyzed (it’s my guess, idk why such a big difference in feeding frequency).


So, I got some questions by now if you can suggest smth:

  1. what feeding schedule u find more appropriate to meet my early-mid Bloom stage;
  2. do u use Honey vs Molases (I checked, they don’t differ much, but honey seems more pure apart from sugars compounds)?
  3. Is it a good idea to use Base nuts + Cal-Mag-Xtra by Foliage (what %)?
  4. If I get ph8 runoff, what ph of Solution u think should be (how long can I move it down)?

Thanks in advance!

Here are some data on GHE & AN feeding rates as mentioned before and 2 days old photos of Queen Bee with Deficiencies, Buds growth and upper layer views.

Feeding Charts:




GHE%20Table%20K


Comparison of feeding tables (pdf link / xls link):


Legend & Nuts composition:


PICS:



Much love! :green_heart:


#127

Fantastic update man :+1:


#128

Lookin good brother. Beautifulbuds :facepunch:

As to your questions I can’t contribute on the nutes but this one I can.

You’ll wanna move it down to btwn 6.5 and 7 but don’t go outside the normal ranges to do so. Meaning don’t put anything in under 6.0 and for now I would go with a high 6 and work your way down. It takes many times to move pH that far in soil and drastic changes will shock her so don’t try more than a point at a time. Meaning you’re at 8 water with 7 or high 6.
Just my experience so far :v:


#129

The Lady seems smartens that body with all the makeup worked so good her way!
@PurpNGold74 @Countryboyjvd1971 @tanlover442 @Redeyedranger @DTOM420 @TxGrowman @Noctis420 @MindlessCorpse @TDubWilly @IslandP

Big shout from Queen Bee in this regard with a nuts post to be continued :hugs: :green_heart:

We manage to pull through chlorosis again having nice runoff ph_6-7 /ppm_380 last time.

After AD Revive used I gave her first feeding with new nuts like:

  • 1L water_ph6 (ppm75 due to ph down)
  • 1L Sol (0,5 Cal-Mag + 1 Micro + 1,5 Bloom + 1Honey) = 530ppm (75-180-350-530)

Today, after 2 days break, made a Foliage spray (x4 less strength) with Micro elements mainly of average and slow mobility directly to leaves and buds (+underneath to stomata) :

  • 0,2 Micro + 0,1 Revive + 0,2 Bloom ~0,6L Spray
  • (ppm 30 RO used)

Tried converting nutrients’ elements to pure quantity as they are in the table below.
Got some “presets” for roots / foliage / less | more microelements.
I am not sure whether there are some elements (marked red) which are pure, but at least checked N:P:K ratios compared to 5 feeding charts for GHE Flora (+Cal-Mag).
Feed chart

Pure elements quantity

Nuts log


Looking forward to:

  • Give more P&K next feeding like Revive/Cal-Mag/Micro/Bloom: ~0,5/0,5/1/2
  • Get AD Rhino Skin (Silicon Si) - use via roots & foliage, as it makes sense due to my last investigations on Silicon power. But I should use some extra nuts killer product for later flush as they say Silicon makes her stomach full of nitrates.
  • Get AD Bud Candy (combination of sugars, amino acids and vitamins) maybe. I use honey for now for sugars. Btw Advance Nutrients state tha molases in not that pure source as needed for MJ, you can find it on a Bud Candy web page.
  • Use foliar spray with Si and less mobile elements cutting off N lil by lil and giving more P/K directly to buds.

Do you use carbohydrates?

  • Yes
  • No

0 voters

I like leaves are back green & perk and buds sticky with easy pleasant aroma.
Some pics there starting from Yellowan story:

:loudspeaker: Your thoughts on Feeding rates are still of great demand in the points:

  • N / P&K ratio change moving down mid bloom;
  • The Gril’s peak value of Nuts per 1 watering I can be sure she eats well under 100W bio led.

Have a nice day there! :man_farmer:


#130

Hi farmers! :hugs:
@PurpNGold74 @Countryboyjvd1971 @tanlover442 @Redeyedranger @DTOM420 @TxGrowman @Noctis420 @MindlessCorpse @TDubWilly

We are late bloom so far (44 days into flowering / 120 total) and about 30-50% of pistils are brown as I see it. The tops of the buds still got big white pistils - seems she’s growing more than 0,5 cm/week in height.
Some of the big bottom fan leaves are getting lime/yellow by this time, suppose it’s a Fall thing.

Watering issues fixed finally:

  • making it less often like 1/3 - 1/4 days
  • feeding nuts every watering making a flush time to time (anyway, first RO water is given - then nutrients solution); and I give 2L of solution now instead of 1L as earlier.
  • current feeding rates ml/L = GHE Base nuts (1Micro + 2,5 Bloom) + Advanced Nutrients supplements (0,5 Revive + 0,5Cal-Mag-X + 2Rhino Skin) + 2 drops of “HB-101” vitalizer = 600/180ppm (ph6-7).
  • pH is 6-7… even don’t need to worry about it since using proper soil & RO water.

Last movements:

  • AN Rhino Skin +
  • HB-101 vitalizer +
  • Homemade CO2 generator of 2x0,5L bottles and pipes (about 100g sugar + 20g yeast + 0,4L warm water) - making about 2-3 bubbles (of 0,5cm dia) per second | time life = 1 day (might be because of low volume bottle used so the critical concentration of alcohol is reached fast = yeasts die). I think this works as I saw one leave pointing towards the pipe. Also my pot run dry faster last time, so I’ll continue this simple CO2 generator test.

Can you advice please whether she is ready for harvest? As for me, I think she will be ready in about 2 weeks (8 weeks of 12/12 in total), but I feel like these white pistils on tops of buds telling me it can last even longer.

:green_heart: :open_hands:t3:


#131

Those buds are mouthwatering :yum: they look like they’ve got a while yet sending out all those new pistils and fatting up :+1:
Only sure way to tell is to check the trichs on the buds but you still have weeks. Great job she looks fantastic :v:


#132

Thanks for your kind words, my man!
It’s so important to understand I’m on the right way there. I feel your support! :fist:t2:

Do you use plain water only last weeks btw?
I still can’t make my mind whether the plant should be stressed with all these tricks (stem split, several days of complete darkness/less humidity, cold temps at night etc…) prior to harvest or should spend it’s last days in the most comfortable environment.

So many thoughts at this point. Some even say there is no need to flush in case your feeding rates are not in the sky so it eats almost all that is given.


#133

I could see this argument in Hydro because the last two or three days you could just run plain water but in soil I firmly believe you need to do a flush


#134

But you still have time. A flush is highly recommended if you are heavily feeding. But pure pH’d water the last two weeks to a solid runoff is essentially the same thing.

I wouldnt start the straight water just yet tho. LOADS of new pistils. You have some serious swell coming.

Lastly. Photo in regular light please?


#135

That smell, you are right, my man… When lights are off it throws so much of it into the air you even don’t need to check time to understand the light switched and the stomatas are fully open)))

I’ll make a regular light photo soon, to make it right colours!

This is my last late bloom week due to schedule, the next is stated as “Ripen”, so with all these white hairs on buds’ tops I suggest to feed at least 1 week more keeping the hand on the pulse.
:green_heart::fist:t2:


#136

@whopee---------- schedule is just a generalized suggestion. Many ladies will greatly benefit from added weeks past the feeding schedule charts. Everything seems to be under control. So you have learned much…quickly. She looks healthy and ready to go at least two weeks to really add bulk and flavor. Let her to that and you will be greatly rewarded. A plain water flush for two weeks would do only good. A well flushed crop is a very smooth pleasant smoke. Each first puff will remind you how much of an adventure growing is and how well you managed to make it happen. Guaranteed to boost the wonderful mellow feeling…ALOT !!!
Betcha it makes you grin…:star_struck::hugs::smiley:


#137

Exactly! Screw whatever i or anyone else says. U know and see these ladies everyday. If ur gut says feed again. Keep feeding. Well said @tanlover442


#138

@tanlover442
Even time goes so slowly these days :grin:, I’m happy to watch this Plant showing itself after so much time spent together :nerd_face:
The bonus is - there are no rules since it’s a fun grow and we play same team with this girl just being interested in the process. I’m glad we managed to make it with so much people being friendly and helpful all the way long :open_hands:t3: :green_heart: having fun there…
And I feel we did it very good at some points!
So she deserves that time, before a long curing period, and she’ll get it :slight_smile:

@PurpNGold74
You are absolutely right! That’s the thing I always say to people, since you are the only person informed on all the details inna first-hand style :+1:

P.S.: many people say the top nodes’ branches give biggest buds, and it’s interesting to see that bottom branches are giving not less in my case. I left early buds at the bottom to see what happens and those which are close to sidelights doing very good, and the stems are even thicker than on some branches above them. It seems like the only thing that matters at this point - is light…


#139

Light is like a HUGE say all to your plants. But i believe i saw @dbrn32 mentioning the ‘point of diminishing returns’ applies to: light, food, co2. So light em up. Feed em. And breathe em. N they will explode any and everywhere YOU focus them on.


#140

Another way to look at it…you will be saying what we all said…at least to ourselves.
I did this. ME…ME…ME…I DID THIS!!!:star_struck: