New leaves of seedling are yellow with brown at the bottom (LED light burn?)


#101

Yeah, dried and seems like dead :frowning:

Now there are no white hairs…


#102

Did ur lighting hours change? N i forget. Auto or photo? Stil weird af


#103

@whopee…the bronze color, wrinkled leaves and black spots indicate too many nutes. Perhaps running plain PH’d water will help flush out some of the nutes. Super dark green with wrinkled leaves shows too much goodies.


#104

@PurpNGold74

No, I didn’t change the light schedule, man.

I think it happened due to the stress, the same issue I had when got first signs of yellowing - my stipules became dry that time.

@PurpNGold74 @Countryboyjvd1971 @tanlover442 @Redeyedranger

Bare root transplant

I think I had PH problems because of the eggshell and wood ash I’ve added in my soil mix at the very beginning.

When I watered it more often - it was ok, when I started to make it more rarely (even I began to control my water ph) like 2 days break between - it started to yellow again. As if something was outstripping me, changing soil ph.

So, I decided to make a bare root transplant:

  1. gave my Girl bloom nuts by foliage to help her live through these bad days of preparation
  2. checked that my soil ph was above 7, so flushed her a lil with 3L ph5 water
  3. gave her 2 days to dry a lil bit (btw, seems the yellowing didn’t progress fast to see any changes there)
  4. made a new 18L container (previously had 11L), bought premade ph6-7 tomato soil mix (+ added drainage, sand and perlite); 10L soil mix / 5kg sand / 5L perlit
  5. took the Baby out of the 10L pot and got knock off feet by the roots being everywhere: bottom (came through my stones drainage), sides, and up to 3cm from the top
  6. Tried to divide the root ball, but it was too hard, so I dipped it into the pot with pure drinking water and it didn’t help also… the root ball was too tuff for me.
    I don’t know whether I did right, by decided to use shower hose with the very strong pressure. It took me about 15 minutes (at best) to make it till there was nothing left in the roots.
    I never do it again… :weight_lifting_man: - 10L root ball is not that easy for a first grow ))
  1. Then I made 2 vertical cuts to divide roots different sides and put them into the pot (above the drainage / sand layer and 1cm of soil mix)
  2. Started adding sand mix watering every inch with ~ph 6.5 water
  3. Watered some more and gave her a short break before LST
  4. Bended top & lower colas and put her back under less light

She didn’t sleep at all. We started at night, finished in the morning, so I decided to give her some energy via light before the first night like 18+18/6.

Time will tell, but for now she looks better than I do any way :crazy_face:

Thank you for your advices & tips, guyz :green_heart:! Here are some pics:

What you think, is it right I put the roots almost at the bottom (to bury my steam), or I should lay them as more close to the top as possible?
They say, roots usually grow downwards, but in my case there is almost nothing left under them. Can I train them to grow up?
Maybe I should damage a stem cortex under the soil later for it to give me new roots from above?


#105

Looks like you may have a calmag issue
How far grom bottom did you place the roots


#106

About 3cm, almost right at the bottom.
1cm drainage, 1cm sand, 1cm soil


#107

Splitting the root ball can be extremely stressful on your plant but also necessary at times especially when root bound. I’ve never done with MJ but at the nursery we did it multiple times. 2 vertical cuts, or quartered then butterfly it out to the sides not down. Shouldn’t have used high pressure to clean them. Should have let them soak for a while and GENTLY rinse.
Also you don’t want your container to be clear. Roots don’t like light. You may have to wrap it in fabric or paint it or something.
Your definitely taking steps in the right direction. Soil mix looks good and your lst is clean and neat. Give at least 7 days before any more shock and you should be well on your way. It will show signs of stress from cutting the roots so be aware.
Good job :+1: way to get in there and go for it :facepunch:


#108

Thanks for your kind words, man!

I didn’t manage to rinse em for several runs with just dipping into the water, so decided to use hose with a pressure while they were still in water. Unfortunately I had only 2 hands, thats why it was really hard.

Cutting the roots was also on-the-go decision as I didn’t like how they were set when one piece. So I tried to find tiniest surface to cut.

I’ll make sure I finish off the container later!

Are there any solutions to make roots grow to the top? Maybe watering with less volume mainly for the upper layers? Or some other techs…


#109

You NEED a fan blowing inside your tent. It helps strengthen the main stalk, as well as keeping fresh air constantly blowing over your babies. During flower, you need that breeze to keep mold/fungus/etc from infiltrating your buds.


#110

Roots will grow where they need to you don’t need to worry about that. Feeder roots (tiny hairlike) will repair and extend as needed.
Kinda wondering why you split the rootball if not to spread them out up at the top but not a big deal.
Water around the edges of your container away from the stem to force the roots to go get it.


#111

Had no experience and was in a hurry to make the transplant faster.
Got it only after the things done))

U know, unfortunately the most common way of transplant they describe in guides is not the bare root transplant, just the root ball transplant full of old soil to a bigger pot.
I’m happy to find out this way can be used for MJ beforehand.

What time period would u recommend for a break before going into flowering? They say the roots grow mostly in Veg. How fast do they fill 18L pot?


#112

I use a big one general fan (about one foot dia) blowing the air inside with my door slightly open there and the Baby looks pretty happy.

But I would like to put something small inside & flexible like a few notebook fans.
What u think?
They are easy to mount that’s what I like


#113

Nice job transplanring @whopee sorry im no help here. But my :crossed_fingers:t5::crossed_fingers:t5: N i hope she stays green for ya


#114

Thanks, dude :green_heart::open_hands:t3:!
I hope she recovers soon )

It was the teamwork :fist:t2:


#115

If it’s an auto it goes into flower by itself. If not wait about 7-10 days from transplant. It should fill that pot fairly quickly especially during the stretch :v:


#116

I’m no expert but after reading through this thread I’m struck by a couple of things:

  1. I don’t think it’s possible this is an auto. I’m new to autos but ALL of mine, indoor and outside, showed sex very early on - inside the first 30 days. Even on 24/hr light from a T5 4 bulb fixture.

  2. I don’t see any mention of flushing in spite of some feedings of 200% and feeding pretty frequently. I would think that there’s a strong chance there’s been some nutrient lockout due to a buildup of nutes in the soil. I’d think that, prior to the transplant, a flush with FoxFarm Sledgehamner and maybe a dose of their Boomerang would have been a good idea.

  3. Seems like that original soil, with the wood ash was a recipe for trouble. In future, use a good potting soil. I’ve been using a variation of SubCool’s “Super Soil” mixture (it’s a recipe for blending potting soil with common amendments) to make a water-only soil that doesn’t require a lot of nutrients to be added until (maybe) later in the grow. When I do feed, I follow the manufacturer’s guidelines OR LESS - never more. Reading your plants is great but pushing the dosing limits until you see problems could lead to problems that are not always easily reversible. They come up with those schedules for a reason.

  4. That’s a LOT of water, imo, for an indoor plant of that size and container. Perhaps because of the funky soil from the beginning the extra water somehow balanced things out; but, in general, it seems like a lot of water. My outdoor plants in 38L/10 gallon grow bags in 38°C/100°+ heat and full sun only drank a gallon of water every 3-4 days in the first month or so. Just a thought.

  5. Has that plant been an autoflowering strain, the transplanting would not have been a good idea. The general consensus is that transplanting autos is not a good idea to maximize yield. I found a GREAT trick to make these pots from cheap 6” nursery pots that, then, make ‘transplanting’ a process with ZERO stress to the plant. If you look over on the Autoflower forum or google “instatransplant pot” I think you’ll find the method. Basically you take 2 plastic pots that fit inside each other. You cut most of the bottom out of it and cut wide slots all the way around the sides. Essentially, you’re making a basket that wouldn’t hold dirt by itself. When you’re done, you place it inside the other pot - this will allow you to fill your modified pot with soil without it dumping out everywhere. Plant your germinated seed in this. When the leaves of the seedling are as wide as the perimeter of the pot, prepare your final pot or grow bag or ground hole. Pull the outer pot off your modified pot and place your modified “instatransplant” pot into the soil so that the level of the soil around your seedling matches your new soil; and fill in around the instatransplant pot - it remains in the new soil and roots just grow outward! ZERO stress to your plant and that size pot is far bigger that your stem will ever be. So, staying in the soil is no issue. This method will NOT work for photos that will grow very large outside, in the ground. But it’s the ‘cat’s meow’ for growing autos that have short grow times and, therefore, have yeilds effected by traditional transplant methods.

About to be planted:

Here’s an auto after “instatransplant” and some pretty heavy LST. It’s a 38L grow bag and about day 21

  1. Topping, fimming, supercropping, etc of autoflowers is generally thought to have a negative effect on yields, for the reasons I stated in the end of #4. LSTing, though, is very effective.

  2. I think a good pH meter, TDS meter and a soil pH/moisture meter would, or should, be at the top of your shopping list! I use a Apera PH20 tester ($46usd on Amazon although I have the $73usd kit that I prefer) and an Accurate 8 pH/moisture probe and meter ($55usd on Amazon) and they’re VERY handy. You can get cheaper but I wanted quality so I didn’t have to wonder about my results. They’ve been a HUGE help! TDS/EC meters are cheap on Amazon. You can order PH Up and PH Down on Amazon also. It’s cheap, effective, and will REALLY help your plants! If you get your pH right your plants can uptake nutes efficiently and the 100% feed regimen recommended by the manufacturers will be all you need. This will save you money in the long run as well as reducing the number of issues you have to balance.

This is a very interesting, although sometimes confusing, thread. I’m tuned in to see how it all turns out and I’ve learned a few things already! Best of luck and happy growing!


#117

@PurpNGold74 @Countryboyjvd1971 @tanlover442 @Redeyedranger @DTOM420 @blackthumbbetty @TxGrowman @Noctis420 @MindlessCorpse @TDubWilly

Good day to all of you, Farmers! :green_heart: :hugs:

Long time no post due to absence of time and Girl’s health state. But now it seems we are back from the dead and keep the flag flying :ethiopia:


Transplant stress or mistake (65 days old):
I don’t know was it a Transplant stress or some mistakes made the Girl to suffer after, but it started drooping & yellowing.
The PH runoff was very bad - like 10/11 so I guessed it could be Clay Pebbles drainage making my soil alcaline as my roots were located almost above it with only 2-3 cm between.
I tried to make a flush like 25L of pure water (ppm 20) of lower ph to stabilize soil. I didn’t see any magic next days so I decided to move towards new big transplant.

Transplant 2 (68 days old):

  • took all clay pebbles away
  • added more soil
  • provided some nuts & easy watering (0.5L) after these “waterpark activities” :slight_smile:
  • gave her 4 days to dry
  • watered with PH pure water (2L / ppm 20)
  • gave her 2 days break
  • switched to 12/12 (75 days old)

Flowering / we are 90 days old (14 days of 12/12):

  • preflowers on the 8th day
  • flowers on the 11th day
  • very active roots grow
  • new LST and future support preparation (made ring structure of 2 top tiers as well as front and rear branches connecting symmetrical and opposite branches; connected these rings together for future support)
  • trimming (-shaders)
  • added a lil of Sulphur to the soil (5gr over 18L pot surface). Roots liked that and showed themselves on the surface
  • added more bio light, now its 100W of light (4 bulbs full spec / 3 red’n’blue / 2 sideway full spec)
  • the temp is under 30C
  • water less often (1 in 3 days)
  • giving nuts 1/week
  • Today nuts feeding: 1L of pure (ppm 20) water + 1L of (ppm 740) solution [50%Veg + 50%bloom + 5mg Mg(25%)] = runoff ph-8 / runoff ppm-370

There are many flowers aboard, looking forward she likes todays meal.
Here are some pics from that time until this time.

Can my PPM reedings like 740 / 370 tell me something? I’ve read some articles, but still can’t feel these figures.


2nd transplant


+6 days passed

+9 days passed


+2 days passed


+2 days passed


#118

Thanks for your Big reply, dude!

Didn’t see it in time but seemed like I met most of your recommendations there:

I could give her some extra nuts once a time, but didn’t act like mad with em, so I suppose it was ph problems mainly. Should be wood ash + clay pebbles (I made this mistake twice…) and the point I started to ph water too late.

I also think I gave her a lot of water, now I find 1/3 days as nice schedule.

I also try not to top more. I fimmed her when young, then topped when she had 8th nodes and later before transplant topped 3 more branches.
LST or just bending - is the thing I like the most . It helps side sticks to grow more sprouts and flowers.

I’ve just bought TDS meter, my today Nuts feeding was like 740 in / 350 out:
Solution was as:

  • pure water + 50%bloom + Mg5 =370 ppm + 50%Veg = 740 ppm

#119

Looking good
Get that oh under control on the transplanted girls 10-11 is way out of range


#120

when she had 1st yellowing issue - the ph was close 9 due to my ph_papers

  • if my runoff ph was 7-8, even close 8 - she didn’t progress yellowing
  • after transplant it was just mad… I never saw this ph_paper behavior - it changed color to dark green once I touched the edge of the runoff water surface, it was mad green (11 due to ph range table) and she was bad as never before… i bet that clay pebbles destroy ph in 2+ points / i got it in a garden shop, how can they sell this shit as drainage I wonder
  • nowadays I water with ph 5-6 close 6 solutions and still get ph 8 runoff. I guess I shouldn’t make my solution <5 ph, but got no proper data on this. Today runoff ph was better - like 7-8 still close 8.

I thinks I should use more Sulphur powder. They use it like ~5-10 gr for a 10L pot. I tried 5gr few days ago by the surface and it didn’t show any trouble… Using Sulphur via watering solution sounds right? Does it work proper this way? I can’t put it inside soil cause my roots are already at the surface.