Need some help with diagnosing my plant (Green Gelato Auto)

Hi :wave: ,

Newbie here, this is my first grow attempt. The plant’s not doing too well since the last day or two, I’ll try to provide as much info as I can. Please let me know in case I missed anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :pray:

She’s in her 2nd week of veg. Everything was going fine, till I saw the lowest two leaves were developing dark spots/blotches and the newer growth is curling in a bit…they don’t look happy at all. I’ll post the pictures from the last 4 days along with the latest pictures of the main issue. I looked online and it’s pretty daunting to figure out what’s up but it seemed related to cal/mag deficiencies? I know Britta lowers the cal/mag % (mentioned on their website)…but at this point I’m getting out of my depth

May 24

May 25

May 26

May 27

Indoor: 80x80x180 grow tent

Seed: RQS Green Gelato Auto

Soil: Compos sana, probably not the best option.

Water: Using a Britta filter to water the plants. I’ve never watered till run-off…I’m always scared to overwater, that’s why I don’t have any run-off pH or EC values…yet…as for the filtered water + nutrients, I have a pH of around 6.4 6.5.

Nutrients: BioBizz grow and bloom. For now I’m only using 1-2ml/L Grow. I panicked today and gave her 1ml/L of cal/mag…I hope I didn’t mess it up more. I tried to get some run-off for the cal/mag watering but I managed a miserable amount…the ppm reading was 1300! I am sure I messed up somehow.

Lights: SF-1000 100W 24h

Temp has been between 22-24 C,

Small ultrasonic humidifier: Humidity was up to 55% but I switched it off as it is pretty constant at 50%

Ventilation: just a small clip on fan for now

Pots: Fabric ones

I really hope this is fixable :frowning:

Curling leaves makes me think you have a PH issue. If you’re out of range she may be starving . I Don’t know much about compo sana soil but I’d start by getting some run off ph and tds readings. If she is at 1300 ppm you need to get that down , way to high for this stage. Also if you are using that meter to measure ph , don’t . They are wildly inaccurate

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Thanks! So I use a separate pH meter for that and I made sure it was calibrated and all. I will try to get a proper run-off pH though. However, I have another plant growing right next to her and she’s doing fine. She’s a week or so ahead. Same environment. I don’t water them together on a fixed schedule but they get the same amount of bio grow and the bigger one gets some bloom too. And I haven’t given the bigger one any cal/mag at all. The blotches on the smaller one are rapidly increasing

Update: I checked the run-off, the pH is down to 4.8-4.9 and the ppm reading is around 1900-2100…insanely out of whack I’m guessing for this stage. Going to flush now…fml…already gave it the cal/mag solution a few hours ago… :man_facepalming:

Flushed with filtered water. Got the pH up to 5.6-5.7 and ppm to 750-800. I’ll wait for a few days till the soil dries up and then give her some light nutrients. The necrosis on the lower leaf was spreading very fast and the top leaves were getting light between the veins and taco curling.


copy this and file it for later and i hope this helps you out

Knowing What Your Plants Are Eating and How Much They Can Handle
October 20, 2016 by Devin Martinez
One big question growers ask is “Why are my plants suffering even though
I used all the right nutrients, feeding cycles, lighting cycles, and adjusted
temperatures and conditions to their absolute best?”
That’s because their pH and PPM levels are off, making it difficult for your
plants to eat. pH refers to potential of Hydrogen ions in your water, which
will determine if your water is too acidic or has too much alkaline in it.
PPM (parts per million) refers to the concentration of minerals and soluble
matter in your watering solution.
Correct pH and PPM levels are the backbone of any grow, and will be the
difference between a healthy grow and a huge waste of time and money.
pH Levels
Simply put: the right pH level will create an environment where your plants
can absorb nutrients quickly and easily, leading to a better harvest.
Nutrient-rich water is filled with elements that are helpful to your plants.
However, if those elements can be broken down properly those same elements
can harm your plants.
pH levels is important to understand because the right level will determine
the quality of helpful bacteria in your water that help break down elements,
helping the metabolic rate of your plants. How? In two ways:?

When pH levels are too low (pH level of around 5 of lower), heavy
metals like iron and aluminum change and can become toxic to your plants ?

If the pH level is too high (pH level of around 6.5 or higher)
elements like calcium and phosphorus can’t be broken down completely, which
will hinder the growth of your plants
This change in properties is due to how acidic your water is or is not.
You’ll want your plants’ nutrients to be a little acidic otherwise they can’t
break down, but too much acidity and your nutrients can become toxic.
So remember: pH too low= toxic to your plants, too high= growth decrease.
That’s why you want to have the perfect level of acidity in your water,
which will be around 5.5-6.0
Typical pH Levels ?

3.5 and below: Root Damage ?

4.0-4.5: Poor Nutrient Uptake ?

5.0-5.4: Good pH Level ?

5.4-5.8: Perfect pH Level ?

6.0-7.0: Acceptable pH Balance ?

7.5-8.0: Poor Nutrient Uptake ?

8.5 and Above: Root Damage

Note: Soil grown plants tend to need a little bit higher of a pH than hydroponics
because soil retains and releases certain elements to your plants at different times.
However, both hydroponic and soil pH levels should stay within the same optimal range
of 5.5-6.0 pH.
PPM Levels
PPM (Parts Per Million) refers to concentration of the particulates in your feeding
From minerals found in tap water to natural elements found in your nutrients, your
job is to make sure that the PPM levels in your water solution are on point so you’re
not under- or over-feeding your plants. While it’s an easy concept to understand on
the surface, it’s a little more complicated when you have to adjust elements.
Now, pH plays a huge factor in PPM levels because even though you may have the correct
PPM reading, some of the particles- and the concentration of those particles- can be
harmful for your plants.
For example, let’s say your plants need to be at a PPM level of 700. You mix your
solution and you get a PPM reading of 700 but your pH is around 4.5. That means that
the majority of the available food for your plants is likely to have lots of heavy
metals in it, which will quickly toxify the plant. You’ll need to adjust the pH level
of your solution to make sure you’re not toxifying your plants.
“But won’t that throw my PPM levels off because you’re adding particles to your feeding
solution?” It can, and that’s what’s so tricky about PPM and pH levels: When you adjust
one you usually have to adjust the other, which can be simple or a huge pain depending
on the water and nutrients you’re feeding your plants.
Common PPM Readings

These readings reflect the PPM your water should have at a given stage of growth
? Seedlings: 100-250 (nutrients aren’t really needed here, hence there’s not a
lot of particles needed)

? First Half of Vegging Cycle: 300-400 (this is usually after you transplant,
which still don’t require many nutrients)

? Second Half of Vegging: 450-700 (you’ll start giving your plants more nutrients
at this stage)
? First Half of Flowering: 750-950 (your plants will be eating more as they grow,
so they’ll be taking in more nutrients)

? Second Half of Flowering: 1000-1600 (this is when your plant’s eating the most,
especially if you give it additives)

? End of Flower, Entering Harvest: As close to 0 as possible (this is when you’ll
be flushing your plants, so you don’t want there to be a lot of particles left over)
Adjusting pH Levels
When it comes to feeding plants there’s two ways of looking at it: homemade or store bought.
Same goes with balancing your pH: you can either purchase a pH buffer from a store or you
can use ingredients you can find around your home or in the grocery store– but both come
with their advantages and disadvantages.
Homemade pH Buffers
? Advantage: If pH levels are low you can use a little citric acid or even white
vinegar to help bring your water’s pH down. When you need to raise your pH levels you
can use a little bit of baking soda in your solution and bring those readings back up.
This will cost you less than picking up a buffering solution.
? Disadvantage: The issue with using these solutions is that they don’t work for
very long. You’ll find yourself having to add a little lemon juice every other day, then
having to use a little baking soda to even things out. Moreover, we’ve also heard of
growers using these ingredients and seeing severe spikes in pH, which if not handled
properly and quickly and bring your grow to a halt.
Premade pH Buffers
? Advantage: Most hydroponic companies out there will have pH buffers, usually
called . They’re much easier to use than citric acid or white vinegar mixes. They’re
designed raise and lower the pH of your water while keeping your water’s pH levels
balanced for longer than it would be without them.
? Disadvantage: As we’ve always mentioned, easier usually means more expensive.
These solutions usually won’t cost you an arm and a leg, but they’re definitely something
you can’t simply make at home and will cost some money.
Adjusting PPM Levels
Before you start adjusting your PPM levels, you’ll first want to make sure your tap water
is ready to feed your plants. That means you’ll want to adjust the PPM of your base water
before you start feeding it to your plants Now, any time you add anything in to your watering
solution, you’ll be adding more particles in to it, so keep an eye out on your PPM levels at
all times.
? To rid your water of too many particles you can use things like a carbon filter or a
reverse osmosis machine to clean your water. However, many growers agree that most tap water
has helpful minerals (like calcium and magnesium) that actually help plants.
? During and after the vegging stage, your plants will want more out of their feedings
so filtering isn’t really necessary. That’s why we recommend only using filters at the
beginning of the plants life when low PPM readings are needed
? For a quick fix when PPM’s are high just add a bit of fresh water with a good pH
level and watch them drop. Filtered, pH’ed water is great when things get a little too
much in your reservoirs.
? When readings are low it’s usually time to feed your plants. When you add nutrients
to your feeding solution your PPM’s will go back up, and when your PPM’s and pH’s are in
balance your plants are going to be happy and healthy.
? Just remember that these readings need constant adjustment, so if you haven’t been
keeping a close eye on your plant’s PPM and pH levels there’s not better time to start than now.


Will do. Thanks a lot!

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Any time my friend.

B Safe

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Yeah give her a good flush . get the ph up and the Ppms down

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Also a TDS meter only picks up on metalic ions so things such a chlorine are not detectable.
Remeber also when mixing, decide on how much feed you need to hit your target EC, if its too strong it can be diluted with more water. Sometimes diluting an over strong solution helps the grower understand the a little goes a long long way! After the solution is mixed then check the ph before feeding to plants. Again, be spari g with up and down because again a little goes a long way and the last thing you want to do is get the EC perfect only to have to dilute because you put to much ph adjuster in :laughing:. Been thers dun dat! Have fun!