Extreme Girl Scout Cookies autoflower grow in a inside tent. Five started 12 weeks ago. Four are presently being progressively harvested (Started last week). I cut as the trichomes starting to amber up (my preference is 20-25% amber). The flowers one of the five looks like it is dying. Browning with xstal clear trichs. I’ve isolated this girl to a seperate cfl setup. All FF Ocean soil and nutes (grow big, big bloom…). I’m looking for a diagnosis, as I have never seen this before. My eighth or ninth grow using this setup. I typically grow 1 or two times a year.
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Definetly looks like its dying back. Do they feel dried out or just lacking in chlorophyll and still spongey? I had a plant do this awhile back but only on the tips closest to the light. She smoked and tasted just fine but again it was only on a very small portion of the bud.
Following
Some are on the dry side but some are spongy. They shared my 2.7’ x 2.7’ tent. The problem child was in the back right corner. Layout: 4 in the corners and one in the center. This girl was in the back right corner. Three of the other ladies came in contact with problem child. Nothing wrong with them. I started to progressively harvesting my ladies and have not yet seen the same issue with problem child.
Same soil, light, tent, nutes, and watering schedule. ???
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She looks hungry at the same time. So could possibly be a ppm issue and she wants stonger feedings than the rest, although they all look a little weak in the nutrient dept. By now you should be using fox farm tiger bloom with your nutrient line. Are you following the FF feeding schedule or just winging it?
Here go ahead and fill this out the best you can so we can diagnose this better. Im sure we can dial this in for you and get you on the right track.
COPY/PASTE the below list into your forum post.
Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so; Or post
NA (non applicable)
What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed
Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF
Vessels: Pots, Grow beds, Buckets, Troths
PH of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable)
PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable
Indoor or Outdoor
Light system
Temps; Day, Night
Humidity; Day, Night
Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
Co2; Yes, No
Always try to upload a clear picture of any issues you may have to allow the community to assist you.
Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer should be included. Feel free to elaborate, but short and to the point questions and facts will help us help you in a more efficient manner 
Thanks!
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What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed ILGM seeds
Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF **FF Ocean Soil
vessels: Pots, Grow beds, Buckets, Troths Fabric Pots
PH of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable) N/A
PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable N/A
Indoor or Outdoor Indoor
Light system 250 watt LED
Temps; Day, Night approx 68-70, 24/7
Humidity; Day, Night 40-60
Ventilation system; Yes, with carbon filter
AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier, N/A
Co2; Yes, No
Yes, I’m following the FF schedule. They are at week 12-13. The other 4 look fine. Only one misbehaving. I’ve pulled this bad one out of the LED tent and am using CFL’s on the problem child.
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Without knowing your ppm of the nutrients your using or the pH in and Out its near impossible to diagnose deficiencies. If youre not following this program then im assuming youre following the bottled directions which is not a complete formula and will always leave you with deficiencies. It will get you through a grow but wont produce the results youre looking for. Its a racket that most the major fertilizer compnies use. They sell you partial nutrients knowing youll have problems and be forced to buy the rest of the line up. Most growers here use Jacks321 and swear by it. Im making the switch after this grow and moving away from FF. Ill most likely still use their big bloom and microbrew though. Stuffs the bomb.
I deleted my screed replying to your suggestion re:using FF nutes. I’ve had success without having to buy equipment to monitor ppms or to do lots of flushing. I stop nutes for the last 2-3 weeks to dump residuals.
My problem is a first plant out of many five plant grows, using the FF nutes recommendations.
I will likely still use FF until I have additional issues (seven prior grows). I will also look into your alternatives. Measuring ppm’s may optimize grows, but I have friends in CA that successfully plant and grow in native soil. No monitoring. Some of the grows have been autos.
Thank you for your help/feedback.
I appreciate your help. I don’t check ppm’s and have been happy with the last 4 grows. I can’t attribute the unknown issue to something specific. All the last five grows have been watered, fed, kept the same distance from my lights in an identical fashion. I’ll just scratch one plant, unless it demonstrably improves. The only thing that I really vary from the FF schedule is that I only water as needed. I change the nutes per the FF soil schedule up to week 12. After that I switch to just ph’d water to improve the smoke and consume residual nutes in the pots until I achieve the clear/amber ratio that I looking for (usually about 15-20% amber trics). I tried flushing two of the earlier batches and have decided I liked the results from switching to ph’d water the last week or two, instead of continuing to feed and then try to flush out the residual nutes. The smoke is less harsh and that was my intent. I think this girl is a goner and time will tell. Just trying to see if there was a reasonable explanation. It is isolated and has been a singular problem out of five “growing seasons” of 14-16 weeks. Losing one out of four grows (25 plants) is not something that I’m going to lose allot of sleep over. My yields and quality has grown with each of the previous grows.
I’ll post the end result (high, intensity, harshness, etc) after harvesting. That should be in about 1-2 weeks. Then I’ll let my crop age a bit to mellow it out some more while I smoke the last grow.
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Flushing a plant is considered bro science. There is no scientific evidence that supports flushing. As there is no way to remove an element once it absorbed. Thats just not how plants work. Its also been proven through a blind tasting study, that unflushed weed tastes and smokes better than flushed.
The last 2 to 3 weeks of a plants life is the most important as far final product goes. Its stacking on all its weight, trichomes and terpines during this time. So by not feeding them at all during this time youre essentially sabotaging your own weed. I understand that it has come out fine for the past few years but it would be much better if you continued to feed you plants. Nature doesnt stop feeding plants before harvest.
I said all that to say this. Those plants are all starving right now and thats why you have so much yellow fading and im almost certain thats why the one has become nectrotic and is dying back.
Sure thing Brother, what are we needing additional help with? 
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Diagnosing and providing information to @newauto2 about thier grow. Im kind of busy today and opened up a box of worms i dont have time to deal with atm.
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Gotcha, I’ll read up on the thread
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This far along I would limp them to the finish line. Input PH and PPms as well as the run off of these 2 would be helpful in determining what’s going on below the surface. FF nutrients require periodic flushing, this and feeding or watering to liberal run off helps rinse the salts that have accumulated in the root zone. That accumulation of salts can drive the PPms up and tank the PH preventing nutrients from being absorbed
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Thank you for your help. Going with your advice, I cut back (removed top buds) the one that showed the most distress and mixed a half strength batch of nutes. All of them responded well. Two of the four are now at 25% amber, the way I like it, and the sick one is adding bud girth. I guess I’ve been lucky on my previous grows. Live and learn. No longer going to cut off food at the end of the grows.
Thank you again.
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