Need help diagnosing my ladies

What strain, Seed bank, or ba

g seed-- Lemon Haze and Chemoto dragon
Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF – Soil
Vessels: Pots, Grow beds, Buckets, Troths – Beds
PH of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable) – water 6.0,
PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable
Indoor or Outdoor— indoor
Light system – HPS 1000w
Temps; Day, Night – day 65-80 night 45-55
Humidity; Day, Night day-- 45-65% night 45-50
Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size— yes 8inch exhaust 870 CFM can and fan
AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,-- none
Co2; Yes, No-- not yet

Hoping someone can diagnose what is going on here. These ladies were obtained from a very reliable friend who vegged them out for me for 30-40 days from clones in pots and were transplanted into my beds 5 days ago. He is having no issues with the plants that remain in his veg right now. I am using 4 bags fox farm a cube of good ‘ol Sunshine #4 peat mix which remains on the bottom for drainage right now as this is the first run in these beds, and they are charged up with a pretty decent amount of amendments mixed into the soil- so the soil is slightly hot with nutrients (say 2 cups of blend per 5’x4’ bed) (another friend of mine uses 5 cups per bed I feel this way to hot)…anyway…

These pics are just with watering with plain water for 2-3 days. I thought I’d go a few days just plain water then switch to my nutrient tea mix. I will say I made the mistake of watering before checking ph and the ph was around 7.2 when I finally did check but would not think that too far out of range anyway. Just want all the facts out there though. I ph’ed and watered very heavy today to flush, as this was advice given by one of a group of growers I hang with who says he has seen this before, several others have not really seen it so we bowed to his diagnosis. He is thinking perhaps a bit of nutrient burn from hot soil, maybe amendments were not mixed in well enough. I mixed them in pretty good I thought probably COULD have been a bit better. Please any help, differing opinions or if you agree with my friend’s thoughts are appreciated.

Seems like a few things going on yelow spotting, discoloration of leaves (lime green), brownig a bit on tips maybe a little. Mainly the yellowing discoloration.

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Looks like a couple things b ut I am certainly no expert, maybe someone else will chime in… maybe phosphorus and magnesium. pH is important because if it’s not correct, no matter what you feed them they won’t take it in. Can you do a soil slurry test for pH at the root level? What kind of plain water (tap, RO, distilled?)

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Love this visual. Thanks for sharing!

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“transplanted into my beds 5 days ago”

Maybe a little transplant shock :v::wink: watch over watering, give the ladies another week or so to adjust to their new diggs. Cuts need to eat right away as they came from a feeding female, so they will be hungry. Dont mist w the lights on, how close are your lights?

The leaves are wet on one of those plants? Are you watering the leaves too? Have you gotten any feed solution on the leaves? If you have made up your soil did you allow a month or so to cook it? Or did you mix it and just plant in it?
Sorry, just a few questions I feel should be answered.
Have you used any CalMag?
If you believe your soil to be hot? Have you been feeding it?

If these plants have an active below ground root system, the last thing I would want is to top water them on the leaves. Dont do it! Let the roots do the drinking! As per any normal plant water once relatively deep away from the stem and dont water for a while. The soil will become over saturated and the plant will suffocate.
The root will migrate into the damp soil over the next few days. @rojimmy50
Typically when I do a fresh transplant, I normally put the soil to be used in a large bin and add water until the soil is evenly damp to the point that if I grab a handful and squeeeze… no water drips out. Place the soil into the container and then a pot of the same size as the one your plant is currently in and use it as a mould. Fill and gently pack around the mould. Remove the mould and pot the plant in that hole. No need to water your new plant for a few days. And you know that way there is no dry patches in your new medium

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The soil sat in beds for 2 weeks before transplants went in. I am not watering the leaves, probably just some splash. I also am using an automatic watering system but did not for the flush, did it by hand. And have only watered with the auto system once since plants went in. I DO use Cal mag in my tea of which I have really not even fed them yet only one time very weak solution.

I was hoping that was all it was --shock but it seems like more. I know the first two weeks of transplant are the hardest time until they get accustomed to the medium and system. Lights are up 2-3 ft, are on lowest setting 600W as I am still vegging them out.

Agreed a couple things…the more I look the more it seems they may just need to eat and I should just start them on the nute mix and see what happens. Plain water…I will do a ph test tomorrow.

I would use the Cal Mag as a stand alone priduct in your application. The issue with ( auto ) systems is they do not accommodate for the fact that roots are not everywhere and therefore its easy to overload your soil. Do you get any run off? Of course this applies to top down watering

Today I fed a few of the worse looking ones some Grow mix and we shall see if it does anything.

Another thing to bear in mind is you are in a peat based mix. They tend to act morenlike true soil and less like coco. Again an auto system needs to account for dry out between waterings. If it were coco, you could time waterings to keep the material damp all the time, you dont want that with peat based mixes.

So since you have new soil, the likes of which has probably not been tested? You may want to do a grab sample of the soil and dona slurry test to determine the ph of it and the EC? That waybyou can assess whether you require some buffering with lime or if the material is nutrient poor or rich.
Obviously, if the plants have been transported, transplanted and who knows what else? There is bound to be some reaction to that. Time will tell? Im not a huge fan of fixing an unknown issue with food though, at least not until I answer the ph and EC questions.

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Thank you for your advice and I will do thorough soil ph tests tomorrow waiting on a meter, first one arrived broken. Heard and understood about trying to perhaps “force” more nutes on top of an unknown problem. The soil should be decently rich soil as far as Fox Farm’s Happy Frog blend has a fair amount of nutrients in it to begin with.

If you are using FF or equivalent, dont feed for at least 4 or 5 weeks. Thats just too much food. Perhaps a regular dose of Cal Mag every 3 waterings or so? Depends. Most CalMag products contain N too so beware of that.

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FF does have a good deal of nutrients but if the pH at the roots is off, it won’t be uptaking them properly, and here is a different chart that adds calcium pics to it.

and here’s a chart for nutrient uptake related to pH

pH-nutrient-uptake-chart

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Wow ok that is some different info than what I’ve received about the 4-5 weeks with little supplemental food. I mean it makes sense to me as the soil will have a good amount of nutes right out of bag and I DID amend it as well. My soil PH seems to be around 6.5. Tomorrow I’ll be able to do other numbers- EC and a better soil sample.

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Yeah thats right, hence a soil test for ph and nutrient loading would be a good idea. It also explains why a bot of ph swing isnt really a bad thing. It allows access to minerals on the extreme ends. Having said that, its a graceful setup because the elements on the extreme ends are not as widely needed by cannabis plants.

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welcome aboard!
You’ve come to the right place for growing info.
We will have you ship shape in no time.

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Appreciate all help provided.

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