My grow is in week 9 and two of the 3 plants are almost ready to harvest. The third looks like it is budding, but no flowers. I took them to total darkness for 48 hours and I am on the 12/12 cycle, but it appears to just be getting bigger, no flowers. Any suggestions? The plant looks very healthy.
Hello @lrogalla , Welcome to the forum.
It can take a couple weeks after switching to 12/12 to see pistils growing.
Do you have pics of your plants? What kind of plants are you harvesting. 9 weeks is very early to harvest.
Edit:, The pic showed up after I hit reply. It looks very nice. I think it will be fine. Just let her continue and dont change anything. The buds will come along soon.
They are sour diesel auto flower.
The pistils are just appearing. You have 8 to 10 weeks to go before she is ready for harvest.
If you are basing the harvest on the stated time from the seed seller you should know those are hardly ever accurate. Autos are typically 12 to 15 weeks from sprout to harvest. 8 or 9 weeks is needed once they begin to flower which starts anywhere from 3 to 5 weeks on the average.
These stated (typically referred to as flowering time) times are from the start of flower and not the start of the plant. It is a common misconception. For example, if the seller states a 9 week flowering time, then that 9 week clock starts when pistils first appear at the tips of the plant.
There is really no way to cite seed-to-harvest time. Autos can flower at any point between 3 and 12 weeks, though most will flower at some point between 4 and 7 weeks.
Thanks for the help. My concern was because the others were taking off and budding like crazy. Here are pics of my other girls!!
Any idea why the 2nd plant looked like this the entire time? It looked sickly, but the buds came and they are sticky.
It’s very common for autos to flower at different times in that 3 to 12 week range. Every plant is different.
What we have here is one of the reasons I think autos for new growers isn’t a very good idea.
First , those are a few weeks away from harvest. But looking pretty good.
The sickly one looks to be excess nitrogen. Sometimes two plants will differ in feeding needs. I suspect it wat sensitive to nitrogen. The leaf curl downward is typical of that. I will find a pic of a mature bud to show what you want to see before harvesting.
thank you! This is very helpful. how do you test for other nutrients? I test for ph but not sure how to check the other. Also, is there somewhere that I can troubleshoot nutrient issues with pics?
Awesome! Thank you both for your time. I really appreciate the help!
Here is another one. Notice almost all the pistils have turned brown.
You can also check the trichomes, the tiny resin glands, with a jewelers loupe.
You can pick up a cheap 30x 60x combo loupe from Amazon for around 10 dollars.
Plenty of info on the forum about what to look for. The trichomes on the flowers, not the leaves, should be cloudy with a little amber.
Great colors. What strain?
Granddaddy Purple. It was before I knew you needed to buffer Coco and I had some calcium issues.
The other that should be monitored is PPM (or EC.) PPM is parts per million, and EC (electrical conductivity) is the same measure but a different way to look at it. It is a measure of the level of nutrients in your soil.
You should maintain a runoff PPM of ~1,000 throughout the grow.
The soil on that plant with bad leaves needs to be completely flushed and reset. That’s a bad toxicity
Couldn’t agree more with @MidwestGuy
This is a great way to get an idea of what’s going in and what coming out. PPM or TDS tells you the amount of total dissolved solids. City water usually starts around 300ppm due to what is added for human benefit, always get a reading before you add your nutes so you have a baseline to start with. 300ppm of whatever + (your nutes) ppm will give you a much more accurate understanding of how much your feeding your plants
Testing the runoff water lets you know what’s coming out, it’ll give you information of what’s being up taken by the plant.