My journal, first time


#61

Your babies are doing very well… Congrats :+1::+1::+1:


#62

I just moved up from Texas to so it sucks having a real winter haha


#63

@CJ8380 thank you!!!


#64

So on another note, have an old army buddy and he said to cut the round leaves off :joy::joy:…que??? Lol he also has about 20 desk lamps around his plants, to funny, love that guy :joy::joy:


#65

Wait for the more knowledgeable here answer but I would not be cutting anything off at this stage IMHO


#66

I would never!! I was like, I haven’t read that anywhere lol


#67

There are a lot of expert growers who have mastered the basics and have problem free grows that have moved onto more aggressive techniques, like various high stress training techniques. I’m still working on the problem free part…


#68

Im pretty confident going into it since I’ve been on the forum. I can tell by me not going to look at the plants but once a day haha


#69

Yeah… You can buy lights or nutes but you can’t buy patience. Lol


#70

I’m so with you on this one.


#71

@dbrn32 got the driver today, hlg 240h 2100a it should be here on the 12th. What would be your preference for how far apart the 4 boards should be from each other to keep the lights overlapping each other filling my 3x3? Dont want to have any “dead” zones so to speak if you catch my drift.


#72

The boards are something like 11"x9". I would do something like 4-6" between the 9" measurements and 2-3" between 11" measurements. Anything close to that can work, can be a little more or less if you need it to be. I would probably try to figure out where it made sense to make the fewest aluminum cuts as possible and make sure I had room for my wiring and driver, then adjust as necessary.


#73

Would you suggest the driver be out of the tent as far as heat goes?


#74

I have my driver mounted in the middle of the frame. I haven’t had any temp issues, I’m right around 80 degrees with a 120CFM ventilation going in a 2x4 tent. The driver housing does run hotter than the QB boards themselves.


#75

I was gonna make a bracket to mount the driver a few inches above the frame to allow for full air circulation around the driver.


#76

3-2 nothing new, just coming along. I think I know which to choose for the one I actually grow full term


#77

You can mount it outside of tent if you want. They get pretty warm.


#78

I want to shed more light on my nute situation. Basically I have the GH trio of micro, flower, and bloom. Im growing in ffof soil so im aware of how hot the soil already comes. But when it comes time for week 4 or 5ish whenever the plants start to need them is what I have sufficient? Should I incorporate calmg into it as well or something else that im missing? My point is to have EVERYTHING I might need from seed to harvest. Better to have it and not need it. Where’s the auto expert at with soil experience? Thanks guys


#79

As far as when to begin adding nutrients, you can monitor this by measuring the ppms of the runoff. When you first take Readings of fresh soil, it will be very high 2000 ish, maybe higher. As the plant gets bigger and establishes its roots throughout the pot, and as you water to runoff and some of what’s in the soil flows out with the water, the ppms will decline over time.

I don’t use fox farms though. I’m in an amended coco that’s has an initial runoff around 2000 and drops quickly. I like to keep it at 1000.

What the initial ppms of the water you are using and where will it come from? I have well water that has magnesium and calcium in it, so I have never used calmag. It really depends on the water source. People seem to add calmag from early in the plant lifecycle regardless of what they grow in.

I’ve grown autos in the amended coco. That’s what I cut my teeth on as a new grower. Not an expert though😎


#80

I presoaked my 5gal grow bags with tap water that was ph’d to 6.5 and I got a little runoff @1400ppm.
My tap water comes out at around 8.5ph and 290ish ppm
All I have done to the water as far as adding anything is just ph’ing it down to 6.5