My clonning guide


#1

15 Great and Effect Steps in Cloning
STEP ONE:
Carefully choose a strong healthy (female) mother plant that is at least two months old. Do not take clones from a sick pest- or diseaseinfested or flowering mother.

STEP TWO:
Use a sharp disinfected blade or scissors to make a 45-degree cut across firm, healthy 0.125-0.25- inch-wide (3-6 mm) growth. When cutting, make the slice halfway between the sets of nodes. The new clones should be two to four inches (3-5 cm) long. Be careful not to crush the end of the stem where cutting.
STEP THREE:
Carefully trim off two or three sets of flower leaves. Cut them off at the nodes where they meet the stem. Clones root very well when there are one or two sets of trimmed nodes below ground and two sets of leaves above the soil line. While taking clones, hold cuttings in a glass of water until you are ready to dip in hormone and plant.
STEP FOUR:
Cut leaves in half to lower transpiration surface and to keep them from overlapping. Moisture that could promote fungus is often trapped between overlapping leaves. Gather leaves in your hand and use a pair of scissors to cut the leaves in half. This will allow less surface area for the plants to breathe, but will still keep foliage on the plant. Cutting leaves like this will keep them up off the ground, which helps prevent rot and disease.
STEP FIVE:
Choose an effective rooting tools or mediums. Saturate the medium or root cubes with water. Use an unsharpened pencil, chop stick, nail, etc., to make a hole in the rooting medium, a little larger than the stem of the clone. The hole should stop about one-half inch (1.5 cm) from the bottom of the container to allow for root growth.
STEP SIX:
Use Liquid Rooting Hormone. Always read and comply with the directions. Pour a small portion of the rooting hormone into another container before using so you do not contaminate the original container. Mix the liquid rooting hormone (if necessary) just before using.
STEP SEVEN:
Use Gel Rooting Hormone dip stem in gel as per instructions. Make sure the part that will go underground is covered evenly with gel. When planting, take special care to gently pack soil into place.
STEP EIGHT:
Use Powdered Rooting Hormone roll stem in rooting powder so that the underground part is covered evenly. When planting, take special care to gently pack soil into place and avoid disturbing the rooting powder on the stem.
STEP NINE:
Effect Steps in Cloning
Water the rooting medium lightly and keep the surface evenly moist at all times. The first few days are the most critical for moisture. Clones have no roots to bring water to leaves. Water arrives from leaves and the cut stem until roots can supply it. Water as needed to keep growing medium evenly moist. Do not let it get soggy, and if it does, remove water at once.
STEP TEN
Give all the clones enough hours to be exposed in fluorescent light like 17-22 hours. Place clones four to six inches below single or dual fluorescent tubes. Cool white fluorescents (or a combination of warm and cool white) are excellent for rooting.
If clones must be placed under an HID, set them on the perimeter of the garden so they receive less intense light; or shade them with a cloth or screen. Place clones four to six feet (1.2-1.8 m) below a 400-1000-watt metal halide bulb.
STEP ELEVEN
Give clones 95-100 percent humidity the first two days after cutting. These are the most critical days for a clone to get over the shock of being cut. Gradually reduce the humidity to 80-85 percent after the first three to four days. A humidity dome or tent will help keep humidity high. Construct the tent out of plastic bags, rigid plastic, or glass.
Make sure to leave openings for air to flow in and out of the dome so little clones can breathe. You may need to mist clones several times a day as an alternative to the humidity tent. Some growers mist once or twice a day when plants are under the humidity dome. Remove any sick, rotting, or dead foliage. Keep leaves up off the rooting medium.
STEP TWELVE:
This step applies when the growing medium is a few degrees warmer than the air temperature root growth speeds. A warmer substrate increases underground chemical activity, and lower air temperature slows water loss through leaves. Por best results, keep the rooting medium at 7S0 -800P (24°-27°C). Growing medium temperatures above 8SoP (29°C) may cause root damage. Keep the air temperature SO-lOoP (3°-SSC) cooler than the substrate.
STEP THIRTHEEN:
Ideally none of the clones will wilt or loose rigidity. In the beginning you may have some clones that wilt but become rigid in a few days. Clones that are still wilted after seven days will grow slowly or develop a problem. Set them aside and let them root longer. If they continue to root slowly or show signs of rot at the soil line, toss them out.

STEP FOURTEEN:
The new root system will sprout from the buried stem in one to three weeks. In 10-21 days you should see roots growing out the sides of the rooting cubes. Signals that roots have started to grow include yellow leaf tips, roots growing out drain holes, and vertical growth of the clones. To check for root growth in flats or pots, carefully remove the root ball and clone from the pot to see if it has good root development.
Clones usually look strong and healthy soon after you take them. After five or six days, leaves may start to change color. Leaves stay small and often turn a deeper shade of green. After about a week, lower leaves may start to yellow if their nutrient levels dissipate. These clones are using all their resources to conserve moisture and grow new roots. Some dieback in lower leaves is not a sign the plant is dying. Any sign of slime, pests, or disease means there are problems, and clones should be removed from the garden.
STEP FIFTEEN
Transplant only the strongest well-rooted clones with a dense root system growing out the sides and bottom of rooting cubes. Do not transplant slow-rooting clones or clones with a small root system. Keep slow-growing clones rooting until adequate roots have developed. Do not move clones below bright light until they have fully developed root systems.
Once transplanted, clones are ready to harden-off and move into the grow room or to an outdoor garden.
Set up a vegetative pre-growing area that is lit with an HID or bright compact fluorescent lamp (CFL) for the rooted clones. Place them in this area to let them grow during the first week or two of vegetation. This area needs to be just big enough to accommodate plants from the time they are a few inches tall until they are about a foot tall and ready to be moved into the flowering room.


#2

I just did 36 clones the other day, my main five plants needed pruning. I did similar cutting, but I only dipped in rooting hormone instead of putting a small amount in another container, I just wanted the hormone on a long portion of stem that I slice slightly to open it up for rooting and moisture absorption , I did make a mistake, from doing other plants in the past, I dipped stems in the container itself, a liquid agent. I didn’t use powder or gel afterwards additional. I put plants in solo cups with soil mix, real wet, and maybe adding water in the again to soak up from the bottom is a mistake. Of course, my clones are drooped over mostly, I have a t5 starter light near them with probably not enough light, I figured from past experience with other plants less light for many days was the way to go.

I am gonna study your method up there, being a lot of steps. Ideally, I do wished I had them in high humidity, the only way would be inside plastic containers with some height, I know this, I do, but I’ve had some of my illness and a hurt shoulder hinder everything for me in the last month+. I can’t believe I kept dipping stems in the original root hormone bottle, being in a hurry, and the rooting hormone I was using cost ten dollars and has a alcohol base that evaporates, took me a long time, maybe the penalty is throwing that away and buying another, and ummm, maybe some of that powder and gel, seems like I seen a video of this method.


#3

Hey Budbd

I have done the same thing in to much of a hurry and that’s when things go wrong.
I use two clear plastic tubes 18X 24X6 w/clear tops.
First few days I keep it at 100% to 89% humidity.
I tried that jell and I change over to power. Works great and not expensive.
Now my next time around i’em going to a tall tube so that I could place clones that are 8 - 10 inches tall. This way after good roots have set in i’ll place in dirt and let them settle in for about a week or to and then flip to 12/12’
The clones will be taken from a mother plant in flower for at least 4 wks
This makes a quick turn around

Will


#4

I posted on another thread, since I posted above a comment, I put my clones in clear plastic containers sealed up for several days, with the t5 cloning/seedling single light fixture hanging just above, then just now I created a gap of the lid used as bottom since those lids are solid white plastic and not clear. My clones look better. I almost left them completely sealed inside the domes, but I read something someone else posted about a gap, and I sort of thought anyway I should have at least two low drilled vent holes for air to go into and excess moisture to escape out of. I could have bought some better clear plastic containers with clear lids at Walmart the other day, but I’m tired of throwing money at the problem, just want to use stuff I already own if I can.


#5

I hear that Budbd,
If you have seen my sog I used wire that sat in the garage for year’s. My two t5 lights bought @ a yard sale and the frame I used leftover pvc pipe from when I redid the pluming
I just got tired of spending money on this for the past 3 - 4 year’s
and all everything is doing just fine…knox on wood…lol

Will


#6

I was wondering… I have a dwarf plant… If I top it with enough stem to get roots… is that the same as pinching and cloning at the same time…?

The pinching I did on (flower) flowers last summer made more new tops, but somewhat smaller.


#7

I for one have never grown or cloned a dwarf plant.
I guess it would be. I never pinch or trim the tops of my flowering ladies.
my reason is not to interfere with the flowering stage so she can spend all her energy on flower and not on new growth.
I do it in veg state so she’s ready when I flip to 12/12
I would say that’s why it came out smaller maybe over pinching

Will


#8

@garrigan62 I’m very interested in your sog grow (or any other you recommend). Can you post links in here for it?


#9

@Ketel

Here is on of mine

Cloning from clones got roots ya!

Will


#10

Thank you!


#11

thanks for posting this guide. I used it to take my first ILGM AFFI clones…

Only took 3 for the first attempt


#12

I’ve tried that cloning at 21st day of flowering. 50% of them go back to veg (18/6 lighting) and the rest if allowed to grow become mini bud plants, with much darker leaves, allot of foxtailing, and trichomes on the underside of leaves. Made for some great keif hash. Wondering what to do with the two Mason jars of shake. Advice?