I have a couple of watering questions for the board. I’ve researched this in previous threads and am still confused, as well as still having the same symptoms from my plants. Any help is appreciated.
I have two Jack Herer plants, germinated 01.17.22, about 21 inches high and they look good. in two gallon pots. lights on 18/6 consistently 20-22 inches above top of plants. i’m pleased with their progress but…
i’ve been watering with distilled water approximately every other day and i continue to get yellow leaves. not all leaves, just some and random, but still the problem doesn’t seem to want to go away. i’m using fox nutrients per the schedule, not full blast but otherwise as they advise. like i say the green parts of the plants look good, not wilted, and filling out nicely.
secondly, when i water, the soil feels dry, and i’ve checked it down as far as 2-3 inches in the pot and it still seems very dry. but when i water it starts runoff out the bottom of the pot almost immediately. when i water very very slowly it takes longer for runoff, but still i can’t get these plants to take 12 ounces each every other day without losing a lot of the water and i’m wondering if this might also be contributing to my yellow leaves.
Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not kow, or do not use something; Just say so; Or post
NA (non applicable)
-What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed (photo or auto)
-Age of plant
-Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF
-Vessels: Type and capacity of container (fabric, plastic, etc)
-PH and TDS of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable)
-PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable
-Method used to measure PH and TDS
-Indoor or Outdoor if indoor, size of grow space
-Light system List brand and wattage/spectrum
-Actual wattage draw of lights
-Current Light Schedule
-Temps; Day, Night
-Humidity; Day, Night
-Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
-AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
-Co2; Yes, No
If growing Hydro some additional questions:
-DWC? RDWC? Autopots? Ebb and Flow? Other?
Distance of liquid below net pot (DWC)
-Temperature of reservoir
-TDS of nutrient solution
-Amount of air to solution
Always try to upload a clear picture in white light of any issues you may have to allow the community to assist you.
-What strain, photo/feminized jack herer, seeds purchased from ILGM
-Age of plant–germination started 01.17.2022
-Method: Fox Farm Organic soil
-Vessels: 2 gallon plastic pots
-PH and TDS of Water, Solution, runoff --unknown
-PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable–, using FF recommended nutrients per FF schedule
-Method used to measure PH and TDS–none
-Indoor 3 x 3 grow tent
-Light system Mars Hydro 1000
-Actual wattage draw of lights–unknown
-Current Light Schedule–18/6
-Temps; Day, Night–65-68
-Humidity; Day, Night–unknown
-Ventilation system; No
-AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier–No
If you can grab a 5 gal cloth I personally would repot her. Will it hurt…no. just make a hole bigger than the whole pot it is in and if cant get it out whole slice that plastic pot. You will never use another i bet. Water will then bleed when soaked. Roots will not bind and soil breathes better. Just my thoughts. I transplant to bigger…10 or 20… if i see a photo worth it all the time with zero negative impact on plant. Plastic can be a pain.
@Storm do you think being root bound could cause the yellowing leaves? i would not be surprised to find that these have filled their pots with roots, but was not aware that yellow leaves could result. this place is amazing.
A lot of factors contribute but a bigger pot…cloth preferred…will take away a binding issue. I lean to some calmag also. Your light is JUST enough to push the 1. In another pot she will start reaching immediatly into the new soil and feed there. Most replies you will recieve are spot on or need to be read as supplements to main issues. I would get her out of that crib and into a womans chair. You will be dialed in quick up here…. Everyone wants others to succeed.
Repotting is ok. Really need to know what your ph is could be a lock out because ph is to high or to low. Fox farms needs cal mag imo. Even repotted and given the right nutrients if your ph is off it won’t be able to use them and you will still have problems.
It is easy getting plants out of plastic pots. Just turn it over, holding the stem of your plant with one hand, and spank the bottom hard once or twice with the other and it will fall out in one piece. No need cutting plastic pots to get the plants out. Hold it over the new pot so anything that falls off falls into the pot.
i truly appreciate all of the input, especially since it was delivered in such a positive way. this site is always a treat.
i have five gallon bags arriving today and will repot immediately. Will also start cal/mag regimen after the transplant.
my intention was to flip to 12/12 in two weeks but does it make sense to stretch that out a bit due to the transplant? that date was always arbitrary and set more out of impatience than anything else. Should i wait a bit, assuming these steps put me back on a healthy track with my plants?
@Highwayman420 i do have a PH meter, but to be honest i’m not exactly sure how to use it. should i measure water with and/or without the nutrients added? (assuming i can figure out how to use the meter).
and if i repot into bigger pots i’ll be using new/fresh FF soil, so i’m assuming (?) that will be a proper PH for the roots to grow into. am i right on that?
what kind, I may be able to walk you through it. Or maybe youtube the name of the meter.
Always add silicon first, then nutrients and then ph the water. If you use mircobials, add them after the water is PH-ed. So to answer your question, PH the water after nutes added.
Not quite, FF has nutrients added to the soil, so be careful not to burn them up by adding more nutrients to new soil. Other than that, you still should be PH-ing the water going in to 6.5-7.0 for soil. FF from all that I know, does not PH it’s soil. They just add some nutrients to get your plants going for 4-6 weeks, depending on which FF soil it is. Happy Frog is not as “hot” with nutrients as Ocean Floor is. Honestly, coco is way easier to grow in. More forgiving, feed/water daily, and neutral medium void of anything added into it. So if you see an issue, simply flush and start over.
@Highwayman420 thank you very much. i will search YouTube as to not put you through the grind of trying to teach an old dog a trick. not even a new trick, any trick is tough sledding. again i appreciate the feedback and i’ll update this thread through the process. best regards to all.