Modded hydro bucket

@peachfuzz Here’s a pick of the outside. Where I have the Lowe’s bucket sitting there is a tent duct. I was going to put an inlet fan there. If I don’t need and I let fan than I’ll place the reservoir right there. I will take a pic of the inside of the tent when I get off work. At the top of the pipe stand I built above the filter is where I am hanging my exhaust fan.

6 Likes

@peachfuzz tomorrow I’m going to go get the pvc pipe to make my system. Was going to get 1/2 in to connect to the pump and 1 1/2 to go from bucket to bucket. How should I connect the 1/2 in pipe to the pump

Yes… I used 1/2 inch clear tubing… black tubing would be better tho… :wink:

:v::sunglasses:

I used black sprinkler system pipe. Home depot has slip fittings for it so you can change them around easy later if needed.

1 Like

Are these the brands you use for these? I could not find in General Hydroponics.

Yes… those are them…
I wish I knew how to use this danm computer crap… I’m a smart person with some things and very not smart when it comes to other things… :grin:
But yes… those are what I use… I know they seem pricey , but you have to understand that I really dont use much and they last a long time… :wink:

:v::sunglasses:

1 Like

What size rock wool cubes do you use? @peachfuzz

I think there the 1 1/2 inch cubes… but I only use those for seedlings… normally I’m cloning and I only use neoprene collars for that route… :wink:

:v::sunglasses:

Your last sentence I’m a little confused about the small solo cup . You said once you get roots coming out of the rock wool you place in a mini solo cup with hydro stone and place into the system. The solo cup confuses me a little @peachfuzz

My setup is a 3 stage system when I’m cloning…
Cloner uses 1 1/4 inch neoprene collars and when I move them to my vegg system , the 1 1/4 inch collar goes into a bigger collar that fits inside a little solo cup with the bottom cut out… and when I move them into my flower system , they go into a bigger neoprene collar that fits in a little 5 inch pot with the bottom cut out of it…
It’s just a way to move them from system to system and still be able to support the plants…
I’ll get you some pics…
What you have to understand is that everything I use , I’ve made… so it’s not like you can just go grab some of this stuff off of a shelf… your gonna have to DIY some of this stuff , also you have to remember that I do everything as cheap as possible… I can get 35 of those little solo cups for 3 bucks and it’s like $1.75 for one little 3 inch net basket… :wink:

:v::sunglasses:

5 Likes

Ok. I won’t be cloning so my process should go like this? Put seedling in a wet paper towel (not soaked) place in a dark area with temps of 80 degrees. Wait about 2 days. When seed pops place into rock wool. About 1/2 down? With seed shell up? Keep in humidity dome until I see roots. Once I see roots place into system with hydro stone. When the round leafs are gone feed nutes at 3 gallon ratio. 3 weeks later nute ratio at 5 gallons. Repeat ever 3 weeks. Is there a need to flush or is that pretty much covered cause about week 9-10 would be the last time I feed? During this whole process I will be topping of water levels with plain Ph’d water. Clean out system every 6 weeks. @peachfuzz

1 Like

Sounds right to me… the more water the system holds , the less cleaning is required… usually …
I would suck everything out every 3 weeks and add new nutrients for that stage of growth and only top off with plain water with a ppm of zero and a ph of 6.0…
So your going to have to play with things a little bit… but for example , let’s just say , at the stage of growth your in requires a ppm of 800 … well then 1 1/2 weeks later you should have a ppm reading of somewhere in between 300 and 500 ppm… if its higher , then you know that when you do your nutrient swap that you probably want to stay at 800 ppm and if you find in the middle of the 3 week mark that your lower then 300 ppm then you might want to bump up your ppm when it’s time for a nutrient swap…
So I have a nutrient schedule that I follow in vegg that dont change… I just dilute it if the plants are young… now when I’m in flower I have a schedule that I use based on the stage of flower that I’m in…
Do you have my vegg recipe?
And do you have my flower recipe?
If not I will post it for you… :wink:
@DrNoobThumb
:v::sunglasses:

4 Likes

Some plants love my recipe and some plants struggle a little bit… but I never kill any and i always bring them to harvest no matter what…
You just can’t freak out if things aren’t running like clock work , especially if your running seeds for the first time…
The reason I’m able to pull 2 lbs , is because I clone them and pick out the best plants for my environment that produce the biggest yields with the strongest medicine … but that can take up to 3 years to be able to predict a 2 lb. Run… less variables when your cloning… :wink:

:v::sunglasses:

5 Likes

Would you please send me your recipe for veg and flower. My first seedling is an auto flower. Will that change much of anything. @peachfuzz

Yes I will get you those recipes after work…
I’m not sure , I don’t grow auto’s but I know someone that does…
@Screwauger can you give @DrNoobThumb your feed schedules for auto’s … I dont grow them so not to sure how much It differs from my feeding schedules in rdwc… thanks
:v::sunglasses:

3 Likes

@Screwauger is a wizard in hydro (although he uses an autopot and not the bucket type) and autos for sure.

2 Likes

Thanks folks. Autopots do classify as “passive hydro.” But I have never had a 100% hydro set up.

That said, I grow in soiless medium and supply all of the plants nutrients to them. I suppose it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer but generally, I never go above half of the recommended doses by manufacturer’s. In other words if they say 4ml per liter at the peak of growth, I consider that 2ml per liter at the peak of growth. My plants get nutes continuously 24/7 vs “feedings” so this is why they get less than the bottle suggests.

So any graduations of strengths are on their way to half strength. For example, you might read in one of my journals that on Day 5 following sprout I give 1/4 strength nutes. That equates to 1/4 of 2 vs 4 ml’s.

In addition, my general rule for all addatives is 1ml/liter no matter what the bottles say. I might, if the plant is healthy overall, increase a supplement briefly to 2ml/liter but I can’t say I have done this much and I generally stick to 1ml/liter on supplements (bud enhancers, terp improvers, etc.

Otherwise, with auto’s I don’t transplant or do anything in the first 4-8 weeks that would stall or slow their growth. I don’t top or fimm or mainline or remove leaves or any of that stuff.

Here is a sample feeding schedule for an auto grow in autopots which again, are a form of hydro but not pure hydro. I know both of these schedule used Advanced Nutrients Sensi Grow/Bllom formula which has as it’s standard, 4ml/liter recommendations. You can at least see neither grower comes anywhere near that amount in their hydro/autopot set ups.

Hope this helps @DrNoobThumb

5 Likes

@peachfuzz can I get that recipe please sir? Also do you have some kind of ppm chart I can go off of or can link me to?

1 Like

For vegg I use this recipe and it never changes until I head to flower… if the plants are young I dilute the mixture by half…
All measurements are to 1 gallon of ro water with a ppm of 0 and a ph of 6.0…
6 mill gh grow
4 mill gh micro
2 mill gh bloom
3 mill gh cal-mag
1 mill gh armor si
2 mill gh diamond nectar
1 mill hormex
1 mill orca
2 mill hydrogard
Gh up and down if needed
Ph in vegg works best in rdwc at 5.8 to 6.4
Water temps in between 66 to 72 degrees
After the plants and roots are well established , you can drop the hormex…
:v::sunglasses:

No real ppm chart , but I go off of this…
Young early vegg - 100 to 200 ppm
Early to mid vegg 250 to 350 ppm
Late heavy vegg 450 to 650 ppm
Will get you flower recipe tomorrow… gotta go get stuff done… dang life … :wink:
:v::sunglasses: