Making feminized auto seeds

should I cut open the feminized pollen sacks or wait until they open themselves? This is how they look now @AAA @Vexer


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I would let them open. I have heard of cutting them open. Im afraid cutting the plant material will release moisture and spoil the pollen.

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Let the sacs open themselves. Wait for a little pollen to drop and then take a brush to it to knock it off.

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Some people even clip the branch once the sacs start to open and place it in water underneath a T5 like you would with regular flowers to let them finish blooming. It’s a cool technique because it lets you isolate the pollen, but the first time I tried it my results weren’t the best so for me it’s just easier to knock it right off the plant.

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I have my plants isolated so I’ll let them do their thing but I may try that one day to see how it works then I could let others know in the future

Genius! Im doing that tonight.

Yeah I tend to geek out on stuff when I try new things lol.

I have lots of branches I suppose I could give it a try

@AAA @Vexer what is the longest you had to wait for pollen to drop after C/S
This is a Photo plant that started to grow balls June 17 no pollen yet


This is my auto plant started growing balls July 23 looks close to shooting out some pollen.

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That’s for vexer, I’m just starting my adventure.

It’s like watching paint dry.

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Looks like some sacs have already opened without pollen; you will get a ton of those so don’t pay attention to them or let them make you think something is wrong.

Once I see those open sacs, it usually is about a week later that pollen starts to drop. The actual time frame isn’t an exact science due to plant development and different climates.

So to answer your question as best I can I would say about to 6 weeks from the start of colloidal silver to actually harvesting pollen. Once the sacs have developed it takes them about two to three weeks to produce pollen. So you’re looking anywhere from five to seven weeks from start to finish.

all you need to do is just look at the leaves every day and wait to see pollen on one of them. My plant had a lot more balls on it so it may take yours little bit longer.


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Thanks Vexer you answered the question I didn’t ask! I did notice a few flowers open with no pollen and that was my first thought “somethings wrong” so now I feel better.
I still have lots of time the Jack Herer auto that I will be pollinating is still in veg

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I remember feeling the same way haha.

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Did the auto get pollinated ? Planning to do it my self

@Vexer @AAA @Jamaican
Well better late than never here is what happened.
My friend and I both reversed a Jack Herer, both plants had lots of sacs and we both got pollen.(nice yellow pollen) and we each pollinated another Jack Herer and we both ended up with the same results…Nothing!! Not 1 seed after sacrificing 4 plants for seeds.
So in my rage and anger I cast my colloidal silver generator to the corner and bought sodium thiosulfate and silver nitrate. since the switch over I’m happy to report 100% reversals and seeds every time.
I am not saying that colloidal silver doesn’t work because I have successfully made seeds but I also had many failed attempts. IMO silver thiosulfate is a much better process, less work and a higher success rate.
My friend had 1 auto plant the he started to reverse a little late ( a lot late actually, like developed buds) with sodium thiosulfate. After 5 weeks of spraying there were no results so we decided to terminate the plant with extreme prejudice.
My friend likes to procrastinate and forgot to kill the plant 3 weeks later I’m at his house and see the plant in the back corner of his grow room and I say " You haven’t thrown that plant out yet" I go over to it and even though he stopped spraying it many weeks before it was loaded with sacs.
This plant kept us at a 100% success rate and as far as I’m concerned the fact that I thought it was to far in to flower to even reverse then seeing nothing after 5 weeks only to load up with sacs after giving up on it for 3 weeks says a lot.
I will not cut down colloidal silver because it has worked for me and I got many precious beans from it. More than enough beans to cover the cost I put in to making my own colloidal silver generator.
But the ease and success rate of silver thiosulfate has way more than paid for it self off so I will not be going back to colloidal silver anytime soon.
I would like to thank everyone the tried to help out on my post.

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@ob thank you.

Can you give details on the product you used, application dosage, and rates?

Thank you

@AAA
I would be glad to!!
First off I had a hard time finding the Sodium Thiosulfate and Silver Nitrate in Canada but I found a place in Toronto that sold me some. the smallest containers I could get were 500 g of Sodium Thiosulfate and 25g of Silver Nitrate cost me around $70 CAD and another $70 CAD for shipping Chemicals. So just under $150 CAD.
This is enough to make more than I will ever be able to use, I mix 100ml at a time when reversing and 100ml will reverse 2 or 3 plants in a month.
So the cost is worth it and mixing in 100ml batches you should be good for life or until the chemicals degrade (I’m not sure how long that would take.)
you need a couple of small mason jars and you need to block out the light so I wrapped mine in duct tape.
A glass spray bottle also wrapped in duct tape.
I put 100 ml of distilled water in each jar (for 100 ml batch of concentrates)
I found out that there are 2 types of Sodium Thiosulfate, Anhydrous and Pentahydrate.
I bought the Sodium Thiosulfate Anhydrous but I made an easy to follow chart for either (I have supplied a pic of chart I made)
for this we will base this on 100 ml concentrate and using Sodium Thiosulfate Anhydrous.
To my first 100 ml distilled water I add 0.1 grams Silver Nitrate and stir with a glass, wooden or plastic stir stick (not metal! not sure why but I read that) stir for about 20 seconds until dissolved, mark this jar A.
Next the second jar of 100 ml distilled water mix in 0.5 grams of Sodium Thiosulfate Anhydrous stir for 45 - 60 seconds until dissolved, mark this jar B.
now this part will make you say “that can’t be enough” I know I did!
Get your glass spray bottle and with a syringe draw up 5ml (yes 5ml) of “B” concentrate and put it in the spray bottle.
now with a new syringe (I have 2 syringes marked A and B) draw up 5ml (yes only 5ml) of “A” concentrate and while swirling the spray bottle add the A to B. (always A to B)
Next add in 90ml of distilled water and add 1 drop of dish soap (soap helps it stick they say but I have made batches and forgot the soap and had no issues).
Gently shake to mix.
you have now made STS solution.
My first time I thought 0.1 grams of silver and 0.5 grams of Sodium Thiosulfate Anhydrous each diluted in 100 ml of water then pulling 5ml of each and diluting in to 90ml of water, That has to be wrong. There will be hardly any chemical in the solution but here I am at 100% success rate!
The concentrates will last in the fridge for 6 months or more
the Mixed solution should only be kept for a month (so mix the small batches unless you are a commercial breeder)
Now some Pics for you!
My Chart!

My Chemicals!

My results!

This plant that I am currently reversing is oddly enough the offspring of the original Super OG auto and Jack Herer auto that I crossed while making this post over a year ago.
I am making F2s now and will carry on with breeding each offspring until 5 or 6 generations to stabilize my very first cross strain I made (it’s a nice feeling to know you made your own strain)
That’s it in a nut shell or should I say Seed shell!
Good luck to all!
Feel free to copy, print or redistribute my Chart (where allowed)
and don’t hesitate to ask any question or point out any mistakes. :metal:

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@AAA
I would also like to add if you are on a septic bed never pour this or colloidal silver down the drain.
It will kill the bacteria and you will have to pump you septic bed and flush it out.

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Thank you fur the details! Great work.

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@AAA
I’ve pulled so much great info from this site, it nice to give back!

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