These low ryders sprouted on 10/28 and have been growing great. The past week or so I’ve noticed some leaf discoloration and spots. Can anyone tell me what’s going on and suggest a solution?
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To help better please provide all the information you can: light and light height, soil, nutrients, ph, ppm
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6 plants in 4X4 tent. 1000 W led with both veg and bloom on, 24” above plants, 24 hr lights. Soil: MG - Nature’s Care Organic soil in 5 gal fabric pots. No additional nutes other than worm tea with watering. PH 6-6.5 Water. Plant height varies between 14” and 18”. The buds are small but prolific and are popping out on lateral stems. Aside from the few rust spots they seem very healthy with thick stems and branches. Mr Bergman and many others suggest adding very light nutrients and past experience with my choice of soil is that it is sufficient enough for the short growing cycle of low ryders. My question is what are the rust spots and what causes them. It seems to me that an experienced grower would be able to take one look at them and tell me what is going on regardless of what my growing conditions are.
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After researching for days my guess is the spots are caused by calcium deficiency. I’m going to try some lime on one of them today, but since they only have about 30 days to go I’m a little Leary of that. According to all I’ve read low ryders are only supposed to grow to 16 inches. Of the 6, 2 are 16” and 4 are 24-25”. I water them daily now at 500 ml each.
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Hi @ArtG! I’m set to watch.
I’m sorry I don’t have any answers for you as I’m new here and in my 2nd grow. My next grow will be the Lowryder, so I’m very curious to see how you do! 
Good luck!
Not enough information. Probably cal mag would solve the issues although those leaves will never recover. It can also be splashed nutes, supplements added by spray, etc so more info is really important.
In particular: HOW are you measuring PH and do you monitor runoff? WHAT water are you using? R/O? Tap? If so what is the TDS? WHAT specific LED are you running as photons dictate nutrient uptake.
Likely the issue is the soil, despite having used before. (Mixes vary from lot to lot etc). The overall big problem with soil not buffered for cannabis is you will be out of range PH in the soil with all of it’s attendant problems. You can buffer with dolomite lime but that takes time.
Also; an overall picture of the plant in natural light, close enough to see issues would be good as well. This could be an old beat up fan leaf that just needs to go away so no: we can’t tell you based on the information given as that would not be responsible.
COPY/PASTE the below list into your forum post.
Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so; Or post
NA (non applicable)
- What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed
- Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF
- Vessels: Pots, Grow beds, Buckets, Troths
- PH of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable)
- PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable
- Indoor or Outdoor
- Light system
- Temps; Day, Night
- Humidity; Day, Night
- Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
- AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
- Co2; Yes, No
Always try to upload a clear picture of any issues you may have to allow the community to assist you.
Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer should be included. Feel free to elaborate, but short and to the point questions and facts will help us help you in a more efficient manner 
Thanks!
One thing I can tell you is you are right on the edge of N toxicity. This will cause lockouts (like calcium) so adding more won’t help. Again; good reason for more info.
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- What strain, Seeds: ILGM Low Ryder autoflower seeds
- Method: Soil: Miracle Grow- Nature’s Care Organic soil in 5 gal fabric pots.
- Vessels: Pots: 5 gal fabric pots
- PH of Water, 6 - 6.5 PH tap water. Each plant has been getting and using 500 ml daily.
- PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable - I don’t know. I thought this only applied to hydroponics.
- Indoor or Outdoor - 4X4 Indoor grow tent
- Light system - 【Lens Technology】 SUNRAISE Full Spectrum LED 1000w Grow Light combines optical lens technology (superior to reflector lenses) to increase light by 30% with higher PAR values than any other brand in the market.
- 【VEG & BLOOM 】 Two Seperately Switches: VEG for seedling growth, Bloom for fruit and flowers. Veg/Bloom features a more Red/blue heavy output to deliver maximum performance from seedling through final flower.
- 【Triple Chip LEDs】We used 15w Triple-Chip LEDs to make much brighter lights with improved PAR value. There are 96 Zener Diodes - each LED has one Zener Diode.
- On both veg & bloom 20 hrs on 4 off
- Temps; Day - 75-80 Night - 65-75
- Humidity; Day -50-60% Night - 45-60%
- Ventilation system; Yes, 4” Exhaust with carbon filter + two 8” Oscillating fans
- AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier - No
- Co2; No
- Sprouted on 9/28 shortest plant 17”, Tallest 26” - in flower. See latest pic above and pic of spots on leaves farther up. Photos taken with grow lights off.
- Final observation; If In fact these seeds are all low ryders they appear to be of two phenotypes. 4 have large wide leaves and 2 have small thinner leaves. The spots only occurred on 2 of the wide leaf types.
How are you measuring this? When did you calibrate last?
Very valuable for any grow. There are techniques you can use to monitor uptake etc.
Light is only 165 watts so 1 X 3 footprint roughly. Not enough for a 4 X 4 (800 plug watts needed)
I would like to see what your runoff numbers are: both PH and TDS. I would invest in a TDS meter sooner than later as you will end up with a bunch of uses for it over time.
Some of these questions don’t seem obvious but they actually inter-relate. For example: adequate light will increase nutrient uptake, requiring a higher concentration of salts to satisfy the plant. Using a TDS meter can more accurately determine your nute doping rate. Ambient temps can also affect uptake so if it’s hot; water only or very light feeding.
Increasing the amount of light in your grow space will pay off in one grow: you will see your flower density go way up.
Growing from seeds it is normal to see wide variations in phenotype. This is one of the reasons professional growers work with clones.
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