My gorilla tents have pinhole leaks in them. I have been thinking of a solution and I think that liquid electrical tape and a toothpick will fill the hole and work really well. I am doing Photoperiod this grow so is will find out soon enough. Might be worth a shot.
I have the 4x4 it’s a spider farmer tent and it’s a good one very few leaks but the 2 2x4s are coolgrow and they have stretched out the stitching and I don’t think a whole roll of duct tape will cover all the leaks lol I just keep the room light off and have 2 layers of blackout curtains
Welcome to growing with organics lol! I gave up on this a few years back because I pretty much felt the same way. There was no difference between the weed I was growing and the weed my buddies were growing with super cheap synthetics. So I pretty much bailed on organics altogether. Main reason I commented,
You should ditch the calmag if you want to be organic. Everything you get out of bottle of calmag is available in other listed products.
Other than that I think your plants look great. You’ll want to start increasing intensity from 25% to harden plants off.
@dbrn32 do I start the hardening process before the switch. And what do you recommend increasing it by. One last sorry should I try raising the lights or leave them at 20”. Thank you for your response.
You can probably leave light at 20" and start increasing small amounts now or raise it up maybe 6" and give a pretty solid increase. From there I usually try to span my increases pretty equally from flip until end of transition.
Awesome thank you. Just got done defoliating and lst the plants as much as I could. Nipped all the suckers below the canopy on both. I’m pretty sure I did a conventional defoliation on one and the other I’m going kinda gonna let it ride and went very light in cutting but super cropped and freed up bud spots. It’s funny never thought I’d have an issue containing two plants in my 3x3. Should have went with a 4x2 at least. Live and learn I guess. But I dialed the lights up 15% and Gained some room with the lst so they are back down to 24” but by tomorrow night everyone will be stand tall and have the 20” back. From what I gather my size tent and my light most guys can only really get them running at 60-65% anyway at 20-24”. Or text me if I’m wrong please. Maybe it just depends on the Pheno.
Thanks again for all the help.
Only got one picture in before the lights got me. I’ll update tomorrow.
You should be able to run hlg-300L at or around full power under most circumstances. Having other lights in with it may offset need to do that though.
Post defoliation. I know it’s definitely on the light side. I’m sure I can go a little further with both. They bounced back up four inches since yesterday. Would like to give it the weekend before flipping to see if I can train them out to finish filling the tent.
@Hellraiser would it be beneficial if I put up a screen to keep the plant as flat as possible or do you think I’d be ok with the way I have them tied down?
They look pretty good and flat as is, I’d skip the screen.
Thanks man. I take that as a pretty big compliment. I was reading one of your posts earlier. And you said you put four plants in a 3x3. What size pots do you use? And I guess you start the screen mid veg to be able to control them? I took the smaller third plant I had in there. I’m sure I could have kept it there but I feel like the other two were over taking it majorly. But it was also two different genetics. I was actually thinking about taking one of the 100w lights out and flowering the two rejects I have for the hell of it. Would I be cutting myself short by pulling one light and flowering with 350 combined watts?
Ready or not her I come. Made some moves in the tent to get a little better air flow. Pinched a couple more leaves and repositioned some branches to get them to fit as best as possible. Taped up all the light leaks and reset the timer. Here goes nothing.
When I grew in soil I used 5 or 7 gal pots, moved to coco and started in 5 gal pots but moving to 3 gal pots on next grow as the extra space just seems unneeded. I usually put up the screen a week or 2 before flowering if I plan on weaving some bracnhes thru, them sometimes I put up the screen a couple weeks into flowering if I’m just going to use it to support and separate the tallest colas to keep them from leaning or falling over.
The 350 watts of lighting would be fine.
Yea I hear you on the pot size. I have them in 7 gallon pots now. Started them in one gallon containers from the solo cup. Moved them to the 7 gallon bags they are in now with room to amend and top dress. I don’t mind the transplanting as it allows me to keep dropping in freshly amended soil. Less feeding I have to do you know. Next grow I was considering making a true no till bed and planting maybe two plants per container. And making 20-30 gallon box’s. I guess it all depends on how this go around ends up.
But I was considering making a screen after the two week stretch to finish filling out the tent and for support as you said. From what I’ve been reading the plants know when they are supported and the respond well.
I know coco is great for speed of growth and reaction to feedings. But watering two three times a day sounds pretty intense. Three kids and a full time job with almost a two hour commute some days it isn’t happening. Unless I automate things. What other benefits are there if you don’t mind me asking. Seems to me you have things pretty dialed in all around. @Hellraiser
Yeah the downside of coco is the more frequent watering requirements, though it doesn’t really bother me, I’m going to be checking on the plants every morning anyway so giving them a quick daily watering doesn’t really add much time to my normal routine. Use a big enough pot and once a day watering can be enough and I know some coco growers that use larger pots (5 or 7 gal) and don’t water every day, more like every other day.
The benefits of coco is the growth speed and also never having to worry about over-watering, never having to think when to start feeding (from the beginning), less issues with fungus gnats. Also costs less for me to get some coco bricks shipped in than big bags of potting soil and the bricks take up way less space to store and I just re-hydrate and expand them as needed.
Automation would be great for coco, can use auto-pots or the blumat drippers.
Yea the auto pots really caught my attention only downside is that for me is I really don’t have room for a res. at the current moment. I was considering building some shelving around the outside of my tent to make something like that work. Been kinda limited to my 3x3 space inside. Can you use coco in earth box’s as well. The whole sip concept has gotten my attention as well. I was considering using either one of those concepts outside next summer. Especially if what I have in the works plays out. @Hellraiser
Don’t see a problem with that.
Interesting I’ll have start looking into it. I think the bigger earth boxes you can swing two plants in them and I’m thinking maybe with the sip type system and coco together it’s a match made for each other. I may be wrong. I’ll have to start looking into it. @Hellraiser
Oh boy. First day of flip and humidity is through the roof. Gonna need to figure something out. Any suggestions on how to drop the humidity in tight spaces.
Looks like the humidity goes up when your light turns off which is normal. To keep night humidity lower, need to keep exhausting the tent and preferably sending the exhaust to a different room (or outside) so they don’t keep recirculating the humidity. If doing that already, may need to look into a dehumidifier to bring humidity even lower.
Also don’t keep any runoff in trays, get rid of any standing water before it hits the night cycle. Water plants early in their day cycle so it can dry up some by the time the lights go out.