new to growing right now growing in soil but will like to give hydro a shot down the road when soil grow is done. have an 4x8x96 gorilla grow tent for the setup. was looking at this setup here was tryna get some thoughts and feedback on it. 8-plant-fallponic-system-custom-built-for-a-4x8-gorilla-grow-tent-8-gallon-grow-sites-with-reservoir-outside-of-tent-shipping-and-handling-included/. open to other ideas but mostly looking for something that just needs put together and get it going. tagging a few guys if u know anyone with some knowledge about this please tag them also thanks @Covertgrower @Oldguy @Myfriendis410 @RockClarke
thanks as always my man
@Grundo is running a similar system as the one you posted and he’s having pretty good results…
That seems pretty expensive , but if it’s what your looking for…
yea they have the diy kit with everything ready to go u just have to buy pvc and drill holes yourself its $300+ cheaper. but if i go with this one will just let them them it all.
Good system, but not for $1000.
For $500 you can build a system that blows that one away.
I support Tdubs approach. DIY is always cheaper.
u got any pics or anything of system u talking bout or the parts for the idea u got in mind. i know they have the diy setup on there also http://shop.pahydroponics.com/do-it-yourself-8-plant-mini-8-gallon-fallponic-system-no-pvc-not-drilled/ for cheaper
Here’s a basic multi bucket assembly, you’d just need to learn to plumb buckets together
Of course, there’s many variations of this. Using totes instead of buckets cuts down on the amount of plumbing that needs to be done because they can hold more than one plant.
In the video, the green lines are “drain only lines”, meaning they drain from the plant bucket back to the control bucket.
The purple lines are powered by the pump, they feed the plant buckets.
It is very important that your green drain lines are roughly 3-4 times the diameter of purple feed lines. You don’t want to run into a scenario where you pump water faster to the buckets than they can drain
I would have to agree with @TDubWillyand @Covertgrower. DIY is the way to go
I recently built an undercurrent hydro system. If you want to you want to you can take a look at it on my journal. I had never built one before. My First Indoor Grow Start to Finish is my journal
The less you spend in overall construction cost the more money you have to buy DWC parts like water chillers and electrolysis machines, which even though not necessary, can still turn your system into a hot rod from a clunker.
You can see even current culture has really big drain lines
@TDubWilly have u used something similar to this before Nutradip ND1100200 GrowBoss Nutrient Monitoring System, Kit, Black. looking at a few different ones want to get a good one
The home improvement store that’s not homedepot is selling the black and yellow 5 gal square tote so you can use a 3" drain.
I really like the ability to move my plants around the tent and have to keep an eye on lvl but I think its worth it.
one of the things i was looking at having to work around the plants without being able to adjust or move them for a sec. but i was thinking if i stay on top of them and keep them nice and neat i should be ok with not having to move them for the most part
This is what I use for flowering… all diy…
The 5 gallon water jug was just incase I needed to leave town for a week…
Works like a charm and theres only 4 spots that could possibly leak…
Nope. Ive never used one of those.
For the most part in DWC, I never had to much of a pH drift until 2-3 days after setting it, so I would always just manually check and re-adjust it everyday when I got home.
I was spending allot of time on the road and would occasionally spend up to five days gone. This eventually led me to start using autopots instead of running DWC.
With the autopot system, I’ve had my pH be stable for up to two weeks before needing to adjust it again.
Not me. For DWC, it was all about the larger reservoir for me. A larger reservoir means water stability.
Let’s say the plant decides to eat more fertilizer than it decides to drink water. This action naturally causes ppms to rise because now there is a higher content of fertilizer in your water.
In late flower large plants can drink several gallons a day. Most one plant/ one bucket 5 gallon DWC setups only hold about 3 gallons of water. If you set your ppms to 1300-1400 in the morning and that day the plant decides to drink more water than it eats fertilizer, then after just a couple of gallons your ppms can rise to toxic levels going well over 1600ppms in the process.
The larger the reservoir, the slower the fluctuations in ppms, leading to slower fluctuations in pH levels also.