Long time reader first time grower


#41

I’m familiar with the cree j series, is that what you’re wanting to go with? If so I wouldn’t run them at 1 amp, 500ma is a better option. There is a meanwell driver that would run up to 6 at that current available with external dimming leads.

The uvb board I’m not sure about. Depending on intensity it may be something suited for a small portion of lights on. Or could be completely fine running entire light cycle. @Aolelon can probably help you more with that.


#42

I would need to check out the intensity of the UVB output. Most likely, after working your way up in small dosages. You could have it on during the whole time with lights on.i was using on of the strongest UVB bulbs on the market right now for 4 hours a day toward the end of flowering with zero problems so.


#43

The j series is what cutter has on the pcbs, I downloaded their data sheet and spectrum looked good at 90cri and at $65 for 5 I was thinking that might have maxed at 250w(true) with space for customisation later. Basically that is where I am at thought wise but what would your recommendation be?
I just started learning more about this tech then it’s maaad as household lighting, so am young, fresh and green

@Aolelon I was thinking another pcb added into the others separate driver and switch also remote pot. Problem being i can not seem to find uvb(280-315) in this format only cfl/led spirals mostly advertised at 11-14w(idk true etc?).
Any suggestions?
Also can you please link that journal for me?


#44

5 of them is fine, but running them at max current is out of reasonable efficiency range and would require additional cooling. Go for 500ma, if you want external dimming hlg-120h-c500b. Plenty good in a 2’x1.5’ space. If you want a little more, add the 6th strip instead of going up in current.


#45

So 5@500ma making 125w(true)? And that would enable me not needing heatsink/fan?
Once again all reading no experience but I have read the formula for correct lighting during flower is 50w/sqft?
This is where my confusion starts…lol… So once again thank you for your time and patience with me :laughing:


#46

You probably wont find a UVB pcb… UVB diodes are really expensive, which is why most people opt for reptile bulbs. Which do the exact same job, for way cheaper


#47

Well I could see how you would think that, there’s a lot of contradicting information and even more uneducated opinions. Most people that say that aren’t growing with that kind of led tech. I know one person that is, here is what 30 watts per square foot looks like with those exact strips.


#48

Really the whole 50q sqft or 30w sqft is just entry level guides, you should be targeting ppfd levels,


#50

It was my first grow. Things got better with grow 2, although they suffered a bit too while I learned how to manage nutes and pH. They were also autos which don’t eat as much as photos. Here my journal. It’s a lot to read but scroll down to see what plants with excessive ppms and incorrect pH look like. In the end they survived and produced thanks to people on this site.

https://support.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com/t/first-time-grower-mistakes-white-widow-auto-indoor-soil-400w-hps-400wmh/16354/83


#51

On about day 35 after a rough start for the poor plants here is a much happier update
The PH and TDS pens came in couple days ago and wowee I am having run off at 6.8ph and 4200-4400ppm. My standard tap water is 6.2 and only 20ppm which is mostly what they have been having other then light batch of Seasol health treatment and a very light addition of Seasol Powerfeed.
Now I am thinking should I try and flush with tap water?
Also wondering what organic ph down is around that others can reccomend?(i am in Australia so don’t seem to have the wonderful world of home depot or walmart, ya lucky folks)

Decided to change up the veg room a bit, considering I am going led for the flower room very shortly, I added the 70w HPS and took out one of the 150w cfl(more moved it and turned it off) less power better light and the youngen is loving life finally.
The 3 clones i managed to get are on day 6 of trying to root, have been spraying them 3-4 times a day mostly water sometimes with a bit of “multicrop plant starter” to help stimulate roots. It’s active ingredients are 0.05g/L Indole Acetic Acid and 0.05g/L Naphthalene Acetic Acid.
Today I left them in the veg room for 2 and a bit hours without a cover, figure it is about time to start hardening them and also make them wanna root to find water from medium instead of the leaves.

Plan is 30-40 day veg then 12/12, this gives me time to purchase and setup the flower lights

Here are some pics, am looking at an attachable camera for better quality photos so again sorry for the terrible quality of photo.


#52

The clarity on the pics makes it tough to tell how the plants are looking. Is there a lot of yelloinging?

4000ppms is really high and 6.8ph is on the high side. I do not know much about pre-mixed soil, but yours appears pretty hot. Also, when was the last time you watered? I think flushing it is a goo idea, but you may need to be careful about overwatering.

I use bottles pH up an down I get from Amazon. I am not sure about organics, but I have heard people using lemon juice for pH down.


#53

Nah they are deep green, smallest amount of yellowing on clone leaf tips.
I watered today and flushed with plain water on tuesday, could it be the blood n bone etc?


#54

I am not sure. I’ve always bought pre-mixed soil called Roots Organics.

If the leaves look good, maybe wait a day or two, and then flush with your tap water at 3x the container size. You want the runoff ppms to be less than 1500ppms at the end. Others may say flush now, if the plant looks healthy.


#55

The plant has been taking off since i put the hps in. Flushed today and used lemon juice for ph down, water going in was 5.6(close as i could get and figured have to drop medium ph anyway)
The first 2liters i put in ranoff at 3500ppm the next 2 liter bottle ranoff at 2220ppm.
at this point i have flushed equal to pot size and am thinking let it dry and only give ph water next time check runoff and see results?

Scared of drowning it, already had a hard start. Got hope and love for it yet!

Also 3 seedlings i had given up on sprouted? Wtf i was under the impression that 10 pushing 14 days and then no go?
Does this mean weak plants or good genetics?
To the best of my knowledge the seeds are roughly 12 months old at this point and were left in coco/perlite for over 30 days now


#56

I like the plan - let it go and dry out a bit and then water again. 2200 ppm is high but not super high, it should be good.

I see the 3 new sprouts as a good omen. Nice work! I don’t know if it’s an indication of good or bad genetics, but sometimes mother nature cannot be stopped. I had some soil from my autos in my first and second grow that had completely dried out. About four months later I reused that soil for my third grow. A few weeks into it, in addition to the plant I had transplanted into it, two plants came out of the ground and they ended up being autos. I have no idea where they came from.


#57

That’s maad would have been a very pleasant surprise, I wonder if the lack od moisture maybe made them go dormant?
And definitely gonna take it as a good omen, this plant moving bow, 3 surprise seedlings to replenish lost babies and 3 clones that hopefully root. Back in business, ordered the driver for flower led today, gunna get the pcb boards next week and have a go. Winning!
Thank you for your time and help mate very very much appreciated

Hmm gonna do some reading into this seed biz, got me curious.
Thinking about how the natural world would have droughts and floods, plants and seeds have surely evolved some defense…


#58

Citric acid is great to use to lower your pH organically. You can buy the granules for really cheap.

Vinegar & lemon juice will work, too, in a pinch.