Maad got one on the way… Although I think I screwed up with the hot medium as 5 of 6 are looking pretty sad and unlike they wanna continue. 
and no seeds to start fresh.
Hoping i can get atleast 2 so I can breed and get more beans, not too sure about ordering any online, aus is pretty strict on that stuff
Gotta pic?
The 2 in tube stock pots in attempt to save, last ditch effort and 1 in black pot sorta sitting sad so not touching it see what happens. Other 2 not as sad in room under single 150w cfl at 20/4 in hope they may slowly come back enough to breed if lucky enough… impatience and personal stupidity caused this. Rookie errors.
I should note that I have managed to aquire some clones of same strain they will arrive tomorrow all things swimming well. Will see what these 2 do but start slower ànd steadier next time, perhaps get advice and understand what i am reading and looking at before thinking ‘‘i got this’’.
@dbrn32 LED is a definite NEED as heat gets crazy in there even with door cracked ajar. Got to 30c on our first hot day here, not even summer yet.
@Sixpackdad thanks for the tds ph pen tip tòo
All of them are now in a coco based soil? How often are yo watering?
You got this 
. This will all work out. I did horrible things to my first grow and managed to reap a good harvest.
Only watering when pot feels light and after gently checking near base of plant for visual moisture and finger test. Still only tap water
How long have you been growing?
I have been growing for a little over a year, a little bit after growing and recreation use was legalized in Massachusetts, and am on my fourth grow. Here’s my first grow journal. My plants were fine until flowering and then things went south. But in the en they made it through their struggles with the help of the good people on this site.
Now that you are in a coco based soil, and its’ well draining, you can water through to runoff. I said above to be careful of overwater, but I think they look big enough in your latest pics to handle it. In my coco, I water every other day regardless of what the moisture feels like. I did this based on some of the stuff I read that was put out by @garrigan62.
You will want that pH to be 5.8 though and it sounds like you are still waiting on the pH pen. What’s the ETA on that?
Just finished reading your wwa first grow. The lst and guessing fim/topping(4 way i think i read a tutorial like it) Seems to have worked alright
Gonna read through your others when i get time, I like your notes of potential mistakes had to go back and reread first post/log few times but seems like i had same fear as you with over watering a bit.
Have litmus strips as inaccurate as they are but tds and ph pens are meant to be here on the 9th according to tracking
Ok so update time, my clones were cut yesterday so hopefully the 3 root. Am keeping them under clear propagation tray lid and spraying 2-3 times a day so far, is this the correct method?
And thank you heaps @Sixpackdad i watered to run off and plant seems alot happier
Looking at building led just wondering what peoples thoughts are as to what spectrum, brand and simple diy advice is???
. It will be for flower room in a 2x1.5 cabinet with 3 small plants at different stages of flower, not scrog maybe more sog.
I have been looking at the cree cobs that look like a star/flower kinda thing or philips lumiled boards and supplimenting the white with some 660nm, UV and IR.
I can’t seem to find a solid foundation or answer that makes sense, is 2700k or 3000k better? And who has the highest CRI vs Lm/W??
60 air changes per hour is a recommended rate on summer whereas it’s more 12 per hour in winter, i have only read this though not yet tried it.
If you’re limited height go with strips over cobs. If you use something like 3000k-3500k 90cri would eliminate needing to add 660 and ir. And if you want to do uv, I wouldn’t bother with anything other than uvb. Highest cri doesn’t really do a lot for you under every circumstance, so pay attention to the distribution graphs.
That leaves a couple options from cutter, plc strips, or Phillips fortimo that I know of in pcb mounted.
Hey mate, thank you for your help so far and steering me in the right direction
I found a pcb product through one cutter, was thinking 5 of these with dimmable option the hlg drivers seem to be on everything so will go with a “b” series to locate the pot and driver stealth but accessible.
So would i look for a “constant current” driver rated for 240v(5x48v boards)@1a?
The data sheet for j series cree shows a “dip” between 450-530nm and drops off quickly after 660ish, would a supplement be needed or is this reasonable enough?
The website states they can run at 1amp and get 50w with heatsink
Specifications
Will also get a small uvb board, would that be better set periodicly?
I overnuted and had plants with wildly high ppms in the run off - 4000 to 7000. I also wasn’t PHing right (5.8 for coco). I also wasn’t watering right for coco, not watering to runoff and not frequently enough. See what I did to my plants-they survived thanks to the help of good folks on this site. Good luck
I caught myself early regarding not watering to run off and testing. Ive got that figured out. I had also used Miracle Grow and had been using Fox Farms nutes less than 50% solution of the recommended. I started to see some issues and immediately flushed them till I had 6.2 coming out. (About 4-6 gallons per plant). Thanks for the reply
I’m familiar with the cree j series, is that what you’re wanting to go with? If so I wouldn’t run them at 1 amp, 500ma is a better option. There is a meanwell driver that would run up to 6 at that current available with external dimming leads.
The uvb board I’m not sure about. Depending on intensity it may be something suited for a small portion of lights on. Or could be completely fine running entire light cycle. @Aolelon can probably help you more with that.
I would need to check out the intensity of the UVB output. Most likely, after working your way up in small dosages. You could have it on during the whole time with lights on.i was using on of the strongest UVB bulbs on the market right now for 4 hours a day toward the end of flowering with zero problems so.
The j series is what cutter has on the pcbs, I downloaded their data sheet and spectrum looked good at 90cri and at $65 for 5 I was thinking that might have maxed at 250w(true) with space for customisation later. Basically that is where I am at thought wise but what would your recommendation be?
I just started learning more about this tech then it’s maaad as household lighting, so am young, fresh and green
@Aolelon I was thinking another pcb added into the others separate driver and switch also remote pot. Problem being i can not seem to find uvb(280-315) in this format only cfl/led spirals mostly advertised at 11-14w(idk true etc?).
Any suggestions?
Also can you please link that journal for me?
5 of them is fine, but running them at max current is out of reasonable efficiency range and would require additional cooling. Go for 500ma, if you want external dimming hlg-120h-c500b. Plenty good in a 2’x1.5’ space. If you want a little more, add the 6th strip instead of going up in current.
So 5@500ma making 125w(true)? And that would enable me not needing heatsink/fan?
Once again all reading no experience but I have read the formula for correct lighting during flower is 50w/sqft?
This is where my confusion starts…lol… So once again thank you for your time and patience with me 
You probably wont find a UVB pcb… UVB diodes are really expensive, which is why most people opt for reptile bulbs. Which do the exact same job, for way cheaper
