Hmmm. Might be beneficial as they will help aerate the soil and I’m sure what they poop out is beneficial to the plant also but do u want worms inside ur house ?? Lol. They can crawl out the soil and make ways to other spots also if it up for it I don’t see what would be a bad thing about it. @Hoppiefrog might be able to lead a word on this he might have done it or does it idk. Good luck
I really don’t believe in a tent they would get away much the bags are in big Tupperware trays to catch runoff and I doubt they would burrow thru the fabric bags. The poop the make is one reason I want to get them in the soil before this next grow. The light will be here Thursday. ANY better way to help the soil get better microbugs in it what more can I add to it? I have Harris Fish poop stuff and other orgarnic bat poop,wormcasing,blood meal and so smelly stuff in a bag says Organic plant food 3-3-3 stink like s^%$ powered even if the little wriggles get out They would be in a cold basement floor. Bummer worm Dudes
Thanks for the info on the Mycorrhizae definitely been wasting some money… But im at the start of week 3 on some cherry pie (from here) in reused coco running down to earth and worm castings and i am pleased. Just got pretty stoked reading about the maturity rate of the Mycorrhizae! Thanks again!
Really? Roots hitting the bottom is the trigger? That might explain some odd differences in flowering rates and times for my autos.
Hi i grow autos i do organics and i reuse my soil i use white rhino beneficial bacteria from nimbin nutrients Australia and i use coco coir with peat moss and perlite mix with worm castings bat guano volcanic rock dust fertilizer and superworm frass and kelp meal and alfalfa meal fish bone meal sea bird guano and organic compost plus i do a cover crop aswell and i have live worms in my pots to help break down things quickly
@Tezza2 , sounds like you are on a great start. Maybe add rice hulls instead of perlite. Gypsum for calcium , crustacean meal for chitin.
Thats why i have the insect frass for the chitin and it has calcium and other nutrients
Adding Humic acid is a no brainer , they bond and lock down heavy metals. And chelate micronutrients. Humic improves soil structure and reduce salt uptake.
Humic and fulvic acids are both humic substances (along with humin). However, there are a few key differences that impact their benefits and how each are best applied. In short, they vary regarding carbon and oxygen content, acidity, degree of polymerization, molecular weight, and color. Humic acids are large molecules that function best in soil to provide an optimal growing environment. Fulvic acids are much smaller molecules that work well in both soil and foliar applications, where they transfer vital nutrients through the cell membrane of plants. They work in tandem to help boost plant help and increase crop yields…
Remember those green lightbulbs for your grow room . And green head lamps. They told us plant’s can’t see green light. Wow this is totally Bro science. In fact the spectrum that penetrate the canopy the most is green light. If you are using green light during lights off , stop it please.
Mixing soil 3 times a year is a real back breaker, this is a lifesaver
Watched a class on microbes by James F. White, Jr., Professor of Plant Pathology
This was a ton of info, this is what I could remember
Greek meaning Endo = inside , phyte = plant
Endophytes : are microbes within the tissue ( root hairs ) of the plants, often beneficial. So plants take in microbes, to feed on them ( consume them for nutrients “Rhizophagy”) ,and to breed them , to send them out to get needed macro micro nutrients. the plant can withhold amino’s so the microbes would have to go out and fix nitrogen. I always thought it was a symbiotic relationship. But in actuality the plant is manipulating ,directing, and cultivating microbes.
Superoxide (O-) is how plants control the microbes once they enter the root hairs. Microbes are ether dissolved by the superoxide for nutrients,or cultivated ( duplicated and cycled ,plants are a microbe processor machine) and then release the cloned microbes through the root hairs with sugars and aminos tailored to attract the microbes they want to dissolve and the microbes they want to cultivate (duplicate ) Creating a cycle .
Rhizophagy cycle microbes modulate development of seedlings
1 Microbes trigger the gravitropic response in roots
2 Microbes trigger root hair elongation
3 Microbes increase root branching
4 Microbes increase root and shoot elongation
Microbes in root hair tips produce Ethylene and microbial ethylene stimulate root cell growth , Ethylene acts as a hormone, causing root hairs to elongate.
Now , mycorrhizae is a totally different process, which makes it a great addition to your grow
My head is still spinning from all the info, I just found out most trichomes have endophytic microbes ( bacteria) in them with superoxide, Pulling in nitrogen from the air.
Great info @KoolHandLuke . I took an online soil science course but it was an into to all areas and not focused on what I was after. I need to google up what you watched since that is what I was really after. Gonna tag your post for further reference.
@JaneQP , google Dr. James F white, and Dr. Elaine Ingham. And fall down the hole following the White **Rabbit”. Kiss organics has a YouTube video with Dr. white
Trichomes use nitrogen as a antioxidant against bacteria oxidation. This slow down the maturity of the trichomes. Which makes sense, I can see why a excessive amount of nitrogen would slow down your grow in flower
Just watch this YouTube on VPD , this has to be the fourth expert that has told me lower than 75F and 50%rh is old school thinking. This thinking came from HID light growing ( and veteran grower will not let it go ) and with the new led lights you are not getting the same amount of radiant heat with led. Target leaf temp should be 82F. With 60-65% rh. In a greenhouse or summer months the higher temp will save you money on Hvac and the plants love it ,because it’s closer to it’s native natural environment. Someone asked what about powdery mildew (pm). In flower. He said PM ideal environment is lower than 75F@ higher than 70%rh . So when lights are off and your humidity spikes. You just created the ideal environment for pm with lower temps. Now people try to correct that by dropping rh% even farther. Now you are not following VPD guidelines, which will change water and nutrient intake. Creating a nutrient lockout. Most people get a calcium deficiency first. Which kind of explain the , just add cal/mag solution to everything .
Applying Nematodes, make sure you keep the solution agitated. Because the Nematodes will just settle to the bottom. Also make sure your watering can or pump doesn’t have a metal screen . This screen will slice and dice your bug fighters. ( they didn’t come dead you killed them ). Remember they are alive so when storing them ,keep them refrigerated.
Do you know why the yellow sticky traps work ? When your plant is sick or stressed ,it produces yellow leaves . And sick plants can’t fight bug pressure as well as a healthy plant and the bugs know it.