That’s what it would be once I get the third. 4x4 
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I would put in a few screws even with the tape. You don’t want the strips pulling away from the aluminum. You might also consider keeping the drivers outside the tent and just have the wires go in to the strips. The drivers do generate a little heat, like between 5 and 10% of the total wattage. The wiring is easy:
driver+ +strip1- +strip2- +strip3- +strip4- +strip5- -driver
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Screws aren’t needed, especially once they’ve been heated up. All you need to do wipe down the aluminum first with some rubbing alcohol to clean it. As long as the aluminum is clean and the adhesive tape is used, you have to pry them off to remove.
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Digikey. Definitely more with shipping but I can live with it lol.
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How about a piece of flat stock that’s the width of the driver, use it for cross support of the angle. One for each.
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Sounds like a pretty good idea. I have a project box I want to get on there too, so I’m thinking I’ll make two small bridges that span the fame with a driver on each. Then mount the project box to what I’ll condsider the front to both of the bridges.
It sounds pretty good in my head anyways. I just don’t want to restrict too much air flow around the heatsinks. I usually remote the drivers, but it’s kind of a hassle if I want to move anything.
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Digikey shipping is very reasonable, if you use the first class mail option. I always do and they seem to get to me in about 2 or 3 days. Order everything at once though because another order means another box and shipping charge. They don’t have a way to add to an order once you place it.
And the reason I would use a few bolts is not because I’m afraid the strips will fall off. I would do it to keep the tape maximally compressed to assist in heat transfer. Without bolts compressing it, the adhesive on both sides stays in contact but the tape might stretch a bit. Not good. But maybe it doesn’t matter for these strips because they have so much area transferring heat. Usual situation with semiconductors or COBs is you want the TIM to be as thin as possible, so I would even use bolts with heat transfer epoxy just to get it thin. Once it sets up, you could take the bolts out.
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Possibly. I think you’re correct in assessment that it won’t change much with the strips. Would definitely be a bigger deal with the cobs.
Is there a downfall of locating the drivers outside the tent?
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only having extra wire. I’ve done it on most of my lights.
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If you did something stupid like use wire that is too small or too long, you would have some voltage drop across the wire and lose that bit of efficiency. Put drivers outside the tent but close and use 18 gauge wire.
Dude, nice. I had said that and you already did it. Good deal
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Yup, sorry about missing it first time around.
No problem at all, we all smoke pot here, I know how it is
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Found something you diy guys may be interested in. @MattyBear @Rugar89 @Covertgrower @MAXHeadRoom @BIGE @Bogleg @Myfriendis410 @1BigFella
Apologies if I missed anyone.
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Thanks @dbrn32 I’ll take a look at that.
Found this: there’s an option for open or closed 100amp
bayite AC 80-260V 100A BYT-VAEM-034 Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Analyzer Meter Ammeter Voltmeter with Open-close Current Transformer Split Core CT
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Ya, I don’t really have a need for anything that big, but could be an option for some.
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Got it all together will wire it all up when I get back 
Ended up using the 8 citizen 35k and 2 185 drivers you suggested with pin sinks and reflector cups. Used roll of tape to add water so the hole bit wouldn’t get hot and catch shavings. Looking like Christmas! thanks dbrn32
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