Which is better the citizen 90 or 80cri I’m your opinion and what type of aluminum is used on the fixture on the picture
I like to run the 90cri because it peaks deeper in the reds (closer to 660nm) and usually has a little more from blues as well.
I’m not entirely sure what the associated number or name of that is, but search the web for 8020 extrusion and see if you can match it up.
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I’ll be completely honest, if you’re going that route you may be better off just buying the completed lights. You’re going to be at like $550 shipped on the led parts I think. Still need wire and connectors too. And that extrusion I’m pretty sure is pricey and costs a small fortune to ship. As opposed to like $750 to just buy two completed fixtures.
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This is what I’ll run with I will post pictures of the build and results 
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Sweet! If you need help with the wiring or anything else feel free to check back in. But other than stuff I posted, some 18awg solid rated for at least 300 volts, a power cord, connectors, and some hardware should do.
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And another victim “enthusiast” is sucked in lol.
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Ya, I was just thinking that haha. But he’ll also have his corner of the neighborhood lit up soon.
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Don’t forget if you sign up with Arrow you get 10% off your first order…
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Good thinking! I forgot about that.
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It’s about to go down lol. Thanks for the 10% off advise. Any reason why you’re using solid 18 awg instead of stranded?
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i’m going to say out of limited experience that it is easier to put solid wire into connectors…
so there is one reason…lol
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Just noticed I have like 3000 feet of 18/8 wire solid lol. From work 
. Have 18/2 as well. I just feel I’ll like it more if I made it and I know it would only take about an hour or 2.
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@BIGE is correct. The overall diameter of stranded doesn’t fit inside of most of the connectors well. Not saying you can’t use stranded, but it usually requires you to go smaller and tin ends, even then some of the insulation is too big to fit inside of connector housing. That’s for the output side of driver and series connections between leds.
On the ac input side, using like a 16/3 stranded so cord or whatever is fine. There are some cool waterproof connectors available on Amazon if your cord is 10mm or less. I can link them if you’d like?
I used “hook up wire” on my fixtures and the stuff I got was both stranded and silicone insulated. I would opt for pvc insulation over the silicone for the diameter and once I figured out what I was doing the stranded went into the poke in connectors just fine.
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Good to know! I have some 18 stranded from work that I tried, no problem with the actual conductor locking in, but the insulation won’t fit inside of the connector. So it leaves a little copper exposed.
Is there one driver dimmable that will run all 8?
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Technically speaking yes, but it’s not the best application. It’s more expensive than buying two of the drivers I quoted and the available voltage exceeds that of what the connectors are rated for.
You’re getting best bang for your buck with the 185. And if you ever had a failure half your light would still run.
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So I ordered the last set of EB strips as they are now discontinued and stock is low. They are out of stock on the HLG 240H C1050A driver though with a 12 week lead. Need to find it somewhere other than Amazon where they want $90!
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