@Nug-bug do you run the same 3x3 for veg and flower?
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I like the vero 29se in this instance. Running the 36 volt version at 2100ma. An hlg 240-2100 will do 3 cobs in series producing about 225 watts. I’d say 2 drivers and 6 cobs would give you good coverage and meet 50 watts sq/ft.
If you’re willing to give up some coverage, we cam find an option for 5 cobs. I’d probably mount them in a square 24 in. On center, and then plop the 5th right smack in the center of the square. I just don’t know how well the drivers would match up off the top of my head.
4 with hlg-320 would be 310 watts and probably about $310 to build. In my opinion, this would be as little light you would want to go for that area. Isn’t a bad set up at all for the price.
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We can also look at some of the lower powered cobs if anyone is interested. Cree has other cobs within the cxa and cxb lines. Vero offers the 10 and 18, as well as citizen for lower cost options.
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@dbrn32 What is your opinion on the sun boards wavy boards and fusion boards offered by photonfantomdesigns.com
Cree is the next build I want to to
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ok, @dbrn32 let me wrap my head around this…the driver acts like ballest/or step up transformer?
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I don’t really have an opinion on them, I haven’t really followed them any.
On paper, they seem like a great lower cost alternative to the quantam board. Here is what sticks out to me… the suggested drive current seems a little high to me for the amount of diodes. I would be slightly concerned about effective lifespan. Secondly, the spectral graphs weren’t very clear. Maybe it was an issue with loading on my mobile device, but I couldn’t see the entire graph.
I’m curious because I could see the value in adding a little deep red to light intended for flower use. In my opinion, I don’t see an added value I’m adding blue for a veg light though. Let’s face it, a couple of cold white cfl bulbs will veg pretty good, and we can hit McCree peak in blue with a 3500k white. I’m not really sure what we have to gain from it? But just because I don’t know, doesn’t mean there aren’t some advantages. Without having a better understanding of the spectrum produced, I would probably opt for a 4k white that I can be confident I’m using start to finish.
In conclusion, this could be a great product. I’m not sure if there is a lack of test data or maybe just the website isn’t put together well. But there’s not enough info there for me to justify saving $25 over a quantam board at this point.
I’d be happy to spec some drivers though if someone wants to give them a try.
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@BIGE yes, it’s essentially a DC power supply. Changes ac wall power to usable DC power for the leds. Also adds some short circuit and overcurrent protection.
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On my other forum they didn’t like the fact that there wasn’t a matching heat sink available. With the QB’s they sell a heat sink for $8.75 which is pretty cheap compared to the COB heat sinks. I have them on my boards and the work very well.
Thanks for your opinion
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You can have 1 led ceramic with 2 smaller drivers running it instead of 1. The cheap drivers that I’ve ordered are this way. No big deal turn the posts into 2.
@dbrn32 prob can explain I’m kinda stoned and can’t find glasses
Puff puff and looking for glasses
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@Givemefire a little birdie told me that you can save some cash on 3590’s and heatsinks that are pre-drilled from pacific light. They don’t sell components individually on their Web page, but you can email them to get the skinny if you’d like.
The founder/owner is one of the pioneers of diy lighting. He’s known to get a little cranky sometimes, but he hasn’t forgotten where he came from apparently. I’d say it wouldn’t hurt to see if they’ll hook you up. I would just make sure to ask what bin you’ll be getting.
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Hey, we’re a tough crowd lol.
Do it yourself lighting has kind of turned into assemble yourself lighting. People want to do less, pay less, and get more. I’m no different, but sourcing heatsinks is no big deal… heatsink usa, drill and tap a couple holes, done.
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I’d have to see exactly what you were doing to explain it. In most cases we would do the opposite. Size 1 driver to run multiple leds. It’s almost always cheaper this way until you get into large loads.
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Wow 
I’ll need to read threw this a few times to absorb all the great info guys keep up the great work I’m loving it 
@dbrn32 @BIGE @MAXHeadRoom @Myfriendis410 @Givemefire
@Hogmaster you check this thread out yet brother
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At the moment yes,but soon I will have 2-2×4 1-3×3
Figure the 3x3 for veg and the others for a rotation.
But I pretty much got the veg lights.3-300mars
Only need 2 in there
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Deep red will push buds for sure. Are you adding this to white cobs?
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Wow yeah this is great
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Sorry I accidentally skipped over this earlier.
I think from a value standpoint I really like the plc-6 from pacific light concepts. It’s currently priced at $799 and at 600 watts true power is difficult to beat. Matching this light on a diy build is roughly $600 in components. When you consider it comes in a fancy case and the only thing you have to do is hang and plug in, it’s a winner in my book. For some it may be a little too much light, not the worst problem to have.
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Have you ever heard of the meizhi leds I was wondering your thoughts on them has ir & uv my letters might be wrong I picked up a 600 and a couple 300 for cheap
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If you plan on building a light for the 3x3 just to flower, I’d do those vero 29’s in a 3000k color temp.
One of the great options we have with diy is the ability to build half a light now, and the other half later. If you wanted to try a setup with 4 and run a grow or 2, you can always grab another cob or 2 and a smaller driver to run the new cobs.
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