If your light is sized right for space the intensity keeps them from stretching out of control.
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I’ve got some ideas i cant let go of. my GH needs some specialized supplemental lighting. I want to incorporate very long thin strips that wont block incoming sunlight but will supplement early and late evening light as well as rainy or cloudy days as necessary via a photometer and timer controlled by a simple inexpensive PLC or other lighting controller. I was mentally thinking about possibly 3 fixtures composed of two 4’ EB2 3500K strips all powered by one remote dimmable ballast functioned by a lighting control that maintains even light intensity levels. What ya’ll think? @dbrn32
Well, I’m not aware of what’s really out there for controllers. But I can tell you cutter and Samsung both have strips thinner than the eb. The cutter cree 3030 strips are only 15mm wide. They’re also available in 90 cri, which would provide more red than any of the eb strips. So closer to the light you’re looking to simulate.
As far as the other stuff goes, I’ve never done it.
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ok no problem i have done quite a few commercial lighting control panels but they are expensive and have too many bells and whistles for what I need. I can figure that part out what would you recommend as far as a ballast with (6) 4’ thin strips that you recommended? 0-10V dimming is what i am most experienced with
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Meanwell b’s will do 0-10v. If we have a stip picked out and quantity I can help find specific model.
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how bout the design around the (6) 4’ sammy strips 3000k in the 90 CRI
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I wasn’t aware any of the Samsung strips were available in 90cri, do you have a part number?
I just went and checked cutter on the cree 3030 strips. They’re only available in 560mm.
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ok so we double the quantity of the cree strips to make it work
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I wasn’t saying you need to use them, just giving the info I had. You can certainly use a Samsung, or whatever else. Samsung is suppose to be releasing some white strips with supplemental reds on it soon. If you’re not in a hurry, that may be a good option.
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Ok. So 12 cree 3030 strips from cutter? They’re 48v nominal, so you’ll need two drivers to wire them in series. Hlg-120h-c500b will run 6, and have 3 in one dimming leads.
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thanks! this should be fun!
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on the wiring should the wire be colour coded and what gauge should the wire be for this as they sent me all black wire which seems a very light gauge and should any junction boxes be used ? 
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That looks very confusing why the hell do they have you do it like that … oh nvm after second glance I see what’s going on af6er I downloaded pic it was easier to see what are those 3 blocks 3 separate drivers but each board is jumped over to the adjacent board so all current is going through all boards am I reading that right
Lol still confusing
Do you guys think the white color LEDs can work well?
A lot of people said it is much better than Purple one and in some point it can beat cmh or HPS light.
I found MarsHydro upload a white color leds on their website.
The price is nice. If white led is better, i will definitely buy one for my next grow. Any suggestions?
@Baby888 White is always better. The right temperature White is even better. 3000k is good all around.
This is why all DIY lights are white, and not blurple.
The wiring doesn’t need to be color coded, although with everything you have going on there if it was color coded would probably be easier to keep track of. I use 18awg solid rated for 300v on just about everything I do. You’re probably fine with whatever Mark sent, on the parallel connected driver I would just make sure that the circuit is split at the driver wiring. No need for junction boxes either unless you specifically want them.
I agree, just about everything I do is white based. If I had to guess @DoobieNoobie has one of the models you are looking at for testing.
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