Let's talk DIY lights


#4874

I was just reading data sheets on th bridgelux pdfs and I see the 280s run at a run same voltage at half the current would this cause the 280s to be more efficient or should I say cheaper to run since they have a maxinum current of 700 opposed to 1400 on the larger sizes


#4875

No you keep saying hlg 240 the one I posted is Elg not “H” the elg the one I posted is 45 and dimmable cc am I missing something?


#4876

Oh is the elg 220? That’s what I was missing sorry bro I just saw cheaper peice and assumed 110…ok I see now 24v I dont know how i missed that


#4877

It will run off 120 volts, but it won’t be a 250 watt driver when hooked up to 120 volts. The 280mm strips have half as many diodes in parallel. No more or less efficient. If you were looking at data sheet it shows that.

Since there’s not as many leds, the 280mm strip at 350ma is = to 560mm and 1120mm strips at 700ma as far as efficiency goes.


#4878

Cool man I cant thank your clarifying I’m not an electric dude I’m the opposite actually ims plumber lol but math is math so I’m trying lol but I miss IMPORTANT things time to time I woulda bought and sent back 10x without you bro or woulda gave up cuz I woulda fried some stuff… and on the other not running 110 to the elg and still only needing what i need will that do the trick ? Even tho it’s a 240 max watts if I’m only trying to pull say 120 to 150 off it through 110 how would that correlate… and what is the down side to running 110 in a 24v v rated supply in my mind (not knowing jack spit) that would fry the unit like plugging our 110 stuff into 220 in Europe


#4879

Elg drivers are something like 75% of rated output current when powered from low voltage.

Most of the led drivers are multi voltage so they will operate on just about all of the major international voltage configuration. Elg driver for instance will work on 120 or 240, but it’s not full power on 120v circuit.


#4880

Ok I’ve found on now for 46$ its hlg 185 c1050b that will link up with me almost perfect for the 10x 560s I’m gonna have a max forward voltage on 195 max rated on. Driver is 190 is that going to be a problem am I going to have to drop one strip?


#4881

Maybe. It depends on how you load it. If driver nameplate current rating is 1050ma then actual current is around 780ma or so. So depending on how you load it, volts x amps will give you watts.

At that point the elg-240 is something like $3 cheaper than hlg-185 right? So for 3 dollars you can get a more efficient driver, with longer warranty, that you can actually use all of the power from. This is the reason you don’t see a lot more elg drivers in use.


#4882

Sry wrote in an edit


#4883

Forward voltage there will be closer to 200, the 19.5 is at 700ma. At 1050 they are about 20 volts per strip. Driver will definitely kick out of constant current mode.


#4884

Ok, so $90 for the drivers is $350 for a 400 watt light that’ll blow any 2 Amazon 300w lights off the planet. Just sayin…

Pepe


#4885

Oh no doubt pepe I was just inquiring because that was my original vision of led and I was curious about cost no doubt money much better spent then blurple Chinese lights


#4886

So @dbrn32 if I drop one 560 I’ll be at around 180v forward … that will fit within parameters and 9 strips will wire up just fine with the hlg 185 c1050b and 9 x eb560s gen
So
9 x. eb 560, 3500k gen 2 = 73$
1 x hlg 185 c1050b. = 47$
Aluminum and hardware. = 25$
Whip. = 5$
=150$
@1050 x approx. 20v = 21watt x 9strips = 189watt
@700 x approx. 19.6v= 13.7 watt x 9 strips =
123.48watt
That’s a great system for me it’s a bad ass veg and flower light if I want … what do you think man2


#4887

I still think I would run at 700ma and buy a couple extra strips. 6 strips on each side of a center mounted driver or something. If you have discount code it’s an extra $20to have a more efficient and better balanced light. If you insist on running at the 1050ma, you may as well go back to the 1120mm strip and run 4 of them.


#4888

1120 @700ma x 39v = 27.3watts x 5 = 136.5 watts @195v… now if I got a hlg 185 c1050b and turned it down would it be more efficient or is it cheaper to get 700ma driver … and I know you keep insisting running 700 it must be for a reason I’m just not seeing how that correlates to plants if say all specs are met and the I meet the volt with a larger driver … same strips at 700 1050 and 1400 which one is going to grow the best I know your about efficiency but I will compromise some efficiency to get maximum light I need … which one will produce better with same strips more watts more lumens has to produce better no?


#4889

I don’t know, I don’t feel like you read what I type lol.

Vs

the difference between the hlg-185h-c700a and hlg-185h-c1050a is at 700ma output the 200 watt driver had maximum forward voltage of 286 volts. At 1050ma the 200 watt driver has maximum forward voltage of 190 volts. So going back up to quotes, I say 4 strips at 1050ma and then directly following that comment you say 5 strips. If that’s an honest mistake, no biggie. But you did the same thing to me twice last night. I don’t mind helping out to whatever extent is needed no matter how long it takes. But I’m taking time away from family and other things to try and help you figure this out. If I haven’t been clear about anything please let me know. But we’re going round and round the same circle here.


#4890

One of the, if not THE reason (besides growing good cannabis) is maximizing the efficiency of the lighting setup. So; maybe look at it from a target perspective. Determine the amount of light for your surface area and build a fixture that drives the correct number of LED’s to provide that same amount of light but does it at the highest efficiency of the LED’s.

You can get the same amount of light by driving fewer LED’s hard, but why waste all the effort on building a fixture? I’d just buy some blurple lights from Amazon as they would do a comparable job of growing cannabis.


#4891

Sorry man I feel bad tying you up like this one last question then I think I’ll be all set when the say lumens up to…, … ,… for 280, 560 1120… is that at test current or max current being 1400 or 700 for the 280s…and with QBs what really is an optimal target for lumens or watts per sq foot… I think that little bit will get me where I need to be reason I’m so shifty on my ideas because I’m cheap as hell my whole grow set up is Frankenstein mcgyver special… not proud of it but it works and I’m just trying to save a buck like literally!lol, works been slow I got tax season comming but it ain’t here yet . When you say its 20$ more for a efficient light it sounds very appetizing trust me I wish I could bury a grand into this light or 5 lights you know but that 20 bucks is making or breaking my buy right now…with the optimal lumens or watts per foot from a QB will help me finalize my decsison (which is pretty much buy now or wait for more $ which I’ve been trying to avoid) your a god sent tho man thanks again


#4892

So the difference in strips is this… the 280mm is 19.5 volts nominal and max current 700ma. The 560mm strips has double the leds, which are connected in parallel to same half that the 280mm strips have. So it’s the same voltage but double the current. So 560mm strip is 19.5v nominal and 1400ma max current. When you go to the 1120mm strip it again doubles the amount of leds from the 560mm strip. But this time rather than doubling parallel strings they make the series string twice as long. So nominal voltage goes to 39v and the current stays the same at 1400ma max.

I think it’s Kirchhoff’s law in relation to ohms law that explains the electrical theory. But basically in series connected system the voltage is additive and current stays the same. In parallel circuit the voltage stays the same and current is additive. The way the diodes are configured on the strips and boards is in both series and parallel. And depending on how many leds are connected each way the voltage and current will change along with it. They do this because it’s unreasonable to just keep increasing the voltage at low current. And it makes no sense to run current through the roof at low voltage. So depending on desired end result they fill configure a number of different ways.

Like I posted earlier. A 280mm strip at 350ma is the same as a 560mm strip or 1120ma strip at 700ma in terms of efficacy. They will all be 175 lumens per watt in 3500k at 25c. In any of those scenarios the efficacy will be in ballpark of qb 288 at 2100ma.

It’s your money, and you have to answer to wife, kids, bills, or whatever. I don’t really care how you do it as long as it works for you. You wanna run at 1050ma, go ahead. The most balanced way to do that seems to be 4 1120mm strips. If you wanna run 9 560’s at 1050ma that works too. If you wanna know what I would do, I told you 560’s at 700ma. If you can’t afford to fill driver now, just make sure you get at least to clear minimum requirement voltage. On the hlg-185h-c700a that would allow you to add more strips later if you want, up to 14 total.


#4893

When building a light with strips what’s your target watts per sq ft