yeh the way you suggest prevents thermal runaway therefore extending the life of the LEDs, just reading that, is that correct?
Great minds…maybe not this end
Life of leds will based off current and temps regardless of how they’re wired. Thermal runaway can burn your shit down.
Excellent thanks for pointing me in the right direction, only want to do this one time, and get the longest life out of the lights
incidentally @dbrn32 our power fluctuates here and through that we have gone through “blown up” 6 induction cook tops
even with the energy company changing a transformer
Looks great man. Congrats. That light going to kick arse in there.
Very nice, hopefully she puts on some nice nugs for you!
Ok the GG#4 has 3 more weeks, it better be twice as big on that side
Probably a little late for that. But take note of how they compare for the next one.
I don’t know if it’ll do much in 3 weeks. But I’m betting you’ll see a difference in the next grow. If not in appearance I’m betting weight will be more.
It really is perfect for what I wanted.
" to light the middle of the tent cheaply"
No problem! I think it will do that very well.
Going to risk my finger and go touch it again, no burn please
OH im loving it
Not really even warm and pulling 245w
Ya they should be pretty good unless your ambient temp gets real high.
New list of components
SolSkin 3CH Nichia 3/4/660x33 $241.25
2 HLG-240H-C1400B Meanwell 250w 1400mA Driver
1 ELG-75-C1400B Meanwell 75w LED Driver
3 1-10 Dimmer Dimmer 1-10 suits Clip/HPM WP
1 Cutter-TIMDSA-100- Thermal Tape 100mm wide
20 Wire-18AWG-Black- Hook up Wire 18AWG Black 1 Metre
6 221-412 Con Terminal Block 2 way
3 221-413 Con Term Block 3 way
That looks better as long as they are compatible with forward voltage of board channels. Unlike most of the boards that have hard data that’s easy for me to look up, the cutter stuff is available custom configured. So it’s difficult to go look at exact specs.
with the forward voltage data i was told its 45volts per panel over the four boards is 180 volts and its a max of 182 volts on the drivers, and yes the drivers and boards are compatible
Driver specifications in link below.
thanks heaps again you have been a great help
First of all, that’s the open circuit voltage. You can’t load a constant current driver to that and expect it to be able to put out rated current. They will derate and have major power loss. You need to use the constant current region max as your maximum allowable loading voltage.
Ok. So forward voltage is 45 at 1400ma on the white channels? I’m almost positive the voltage or max current will be different on the red channel, no?
Otherwise if you plan to run all 3 3000k channels from one driver, and all 3 4000k channels from one driver, that looks like it would work. But the hlg-185h-c1400 would also do that and they’re $15 a piece cheaper.
That would also mean your elg-75 is to run all 3 red channels. And constant current region on that is 27-54v. The only way that works in series is if the red channel forward voltage is between 10 and 18 volts.
Well First of all thank you again, wish i had your address so i could send you some seeds from my Australian sativa strain, My big mistake in life looking back is i had an opportunity of an apprenticeship with my dad who has now passed away, he was an electrical engineer and gave me the opportunity to join him, but alas i went in a diff direction my arse is still sore through kicking myself, who listens when they are 16 going on 50.
I have relayed the info to Cutters they have been great and very patient with me asking all the questions, just found the other day an old light meter in my dads things made from bakelite.
Thanks again mate always appreciated.