This is correct.
Off the top of my head, around 80-85 560mm strips or so Is probably what I’d be looking to put into a 4x8 for flowering. That would be running 700ma.
2 Likes
I’m missing something. For my 3x9 I can use 42 strips of the 560 . But for a 4x8 I need 80?i haven’t built either. Just buying supplies this week.
2 Likes
What was current you were planning on the 42? 42 at 700ma is gonna bring you in a little under 600 for ppfd average. 4x8 is an extra 5 square feet too. I usually try to lay them out to ppfd average of about 800 at max power for non co2 grow. I thumb eyeballed the 80-85, that would be over 900. To hit 800 it would be more like 68 at 700ma sorry.
2 Likes
I was thinking 700ma. Hlg-185- 700b(close enough). Would I get more coverage with the 1050?so to do 4x8 68 of the 560 or 34 1020, what driver? For the 3x9 what 560, I need to run CO2?is there like a standard 30%more or whatever?ppfd above 600
1 Like
Not really any standard, ppfd of 800 is just considered point of diminishing return on ambient co2.
You’ll get less coverage running less strips at higher current.
Hlg-185h-c700a will run 14 of the 560mm strips in series of 7 of the 1120mm strips in series.
2 Likes
How do you calculate ppfd. What’s mine? 18 strips 270, 9 strips 560, 8 cobs 90cri, 3 qb 288 v2 in a 4x6.
1 Like
Like 34 umols per second per 560mm strip at 700ma. Then total ppf/area in square meter will give you ppfd average.
1 Like
The list of components.
4 x 3 channel SolSkin with Nichia V3 3K/4K and 33 XQ-E.
2 x ELG-240-48B dimmable drivers (for channel 1 & 2)
1 x ELG-75-24B dimmable driver (for channel 3 (red))
3 x dimmer pot
Thermal tape for SolSkin
10 x 1M 3core wire (supplied in 10M length)
4 x Wago connector 5 way (for parallel driver vout+ and vout- to boards)
2 x Wago connector 3 way (for driver ACL, ACN)
2 Likes
Looks ok to me. I always suggest constant current drivers and wiring boards in series. Especially with b dimming drivers as you don’t have any voltage control. It will work though, just double check that all of your connections on output side of driver are solid.
Also, you’re using 230v to power drivers right? The output current is usually derated on elg below 220v.
1 Like
I think its 240v but if you can suggest any improvements please let me know, will be purchasing on Monday all things going well, thanks for the input as i am a complete novice.
cheers
1 Like
Double check that input voltage for sure. If you’re in North America a standard wall outlet is 120v. If you’re on 120v I would pay the extra for hlg series drivers as you can still get full output current.
I would also look at getting constant current drivers instead and wiring each group of boards in series. I’m not familiar with forward voltage data on each channel of those boards. Mark can probably tell you what you need, or if he can give you voltage and current data I can take a look.
1 Like
Thanks for the info, i am in Australia which is 230volts, i will relay the info and ask questions so i know i am getting the best setup before purchase.
thanks again
2 Likes
Very nice!
2 Likes
dude that thing is bulletproof! QB goodness rt there!
3 Likes
For a 2x4 space
3 Likes
Wiring right?
Do I need jumpers on the other ends of the boards?
Went to HLGs web site, think im good.
Thanks
4 Likes
Hello,
I was told that the boards in question are designed to run at a constant current, they are a current balanced board. He said it can be wired that way " in series" but could not see a benefit, what are your thoughts, he is asking Mark about the in series wiring and will get back to me.
thanks again
1 Like
Ya. Positive from driver to positive on board 1. Negative from driver to negative on board two. Then connect negative from board one to positive on board two.
1 Like
Open up your web browser and search for thermal runaway with leds. If that’s not enough to wire in series with constant current, I’m not sure what is.
2 Likes