Let's talk DIY lights


You thought that was temp related last time right? It’s obviously warmer now. This is on all drivers too?

It’s not damaging like it would be to hid. But we should probably try to figure it out.


Yes below 50 degrees they will all stay on, above that they all shut off when dimmed to zero. 3 drivers and 3 different pots.


Are you setup to take some voltage readings at full power and series of various points while dimming?

If I remember, those leds just fit that driver. What I’m curious is if maybe you didn’t get a hot cob or even all of them may be above typical forward voltage.

My initial thought was they should have the highest forward voltage at the most current right? But thinking on it more, why would temp variance show any issue there? It may be because you have enough voltage droop at max current to make driver fitting a non issue. But the minute you start removing current temps go down voltage may be increasing faster from that than its dropping from forward current.

Now that I typed that, based on your description it sounds like a solid possibility. Depending on how you’re setup, it maybe easier to remove a cob from the string and test than getting voltage measurements.


I just switched my plants over to flower tonight, I’m going to document some of the flower initiator so you can see results, if any that you like. I’m going to start with 4 mins, 2 mins during lights on, and 2 mins during lights off and work up to around 5.5mins and see how that works.


Just at lights out? Should you wake them up also? Idk, just read it


Not with the flower initiator no. Just at lights out is the only time I use it.


Keep me posted. I’m interested if it helps!


Okay will do.


So my flickering at partial power was due to a faulty pot. Simple fix and check that first if you have a similar problem.


Looks as if Timber may have severed ties with HLG. Cant find any mention of the SAM’s on Timbers site, or any QB products.


That was fast


@dbrn32 do the strips in my light need the heat sinks and fan? The light seems to have. A lot of light. I’m wondering when I redo the other light if I could do 4cobs 1 strip in the housing take the driver and do another light with the 8strips. Would that work?


The strips probably don’t under a lot of circumstances, but you are running them at max current. I wouldn’t put anything in the case without fans especially because of the cobs being there.

If you can steal a driver and still have the fixture itself be cooled properly, you can probably jump up to a 560mm strip and get a few to run passively at 700ma on bar stock or a small piece of plate.


I’m thinking center the cobs on the heat sinks with one strip down the middle. 2 strips on each side outside the case on some angle aluminum. The light would be larger and I could potentially bring it closer.


The cobs won’t run on plate alone, you’ll need either a large heatsink or a small heatsink with active cooling.


We are crossing wires lol. The cobs would stay in the case. I’d just remove 8strips and mount them on aluminum outside the case like a border. No wiring change. Both fans in there for the cobs still. Just moving the strips outside the case. ||[]|| like that but 2 strips each side


LST!!! These lights rock!!!


1 hour later after lots of LST. I watered and lowered the lights.


We’re not crossing wires, I was just making sure you knew that voltages and everything per driver would have to remain in check. If you eliminate a driver while keeping everything else that needs to be there running will be fine.

Then suggesting if you’re going to be running strips separately, the 560mm would be a better choice. The output current on drivers is about 700ma right? That’s max current on the 280mm eh strip, the 560mm has another parallel string of chips and has double the max current rating. The power level would be exactly the same, but the 560mm at 700ma would have something like 1.5-2 watts less heat loss per strip. And it would be a lot better suited for passive cooling on a plate.


700ma yes. How many 560s could I run? Part number? I probably need to order before tarriffs go up.