Off topic, but has anyone used tbn natural co2 enhancer. I have a tank. I brew beer so I was planning to just sit 2-3 5 gal brews in there adding more sugar every few days. Recycling yeast etc. the tank is on a monitor so it only adds when needed. But this companies product looks cool if it works. I think would be worth a try imo. $30 for 2 weeks co2 at 1200ppm. Or can I make
One? Is it just baking soda and vinegar? Idk.
$8.75 for heatsinks? Really that’s it?
Price looks like what I want to do. Just add 3rd board 3rd heat sink different driver.
Tell me about dimmers. Would I do that?
Is there an advantage or noticeable difference with the 304b boards bs the 288v2? $10 cheaper. Not a lot of the v2 is better. Would the driver cost be the same to run 3 boards. If I bought 2 boards 2heatsinks frame etc could I buy the driver I need to run 3 boards? And add the 3rd board later?
Qb 304
Qb 288 v2
To answer your question, yes. But you would have to decide whether you wanted the 2 board setup to run at optimal point or the 3 board setup to run at optimal point ahead of time.
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If you were running COBs, RapidLED has 140 mm pin heat sinks for $19 each, They say they can dissipate 70-80 watts, which means you could run the COB at 140-160 watts. (Which I would never do because I prefer high efficiency.) Just a thought. That’s about the cheapest heat sink I have found.
288v2 wins again for me. I think a driver than runs 3 optimally would be the best since that would be the goal.
So with a dimmer I would turn it down a little upping my efficiency? Would I also lower the light(move closer to plant) because of decreased intensity?
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The hlg-320h-1750a or b is the driver I think that fits 3 QBs on it pretty good. And you pretty much got it about the dimmer. You should try to keep it within 16-18". Start em out a bit high at first and then as your plants grow, increase light and lower it a bit over time. Veg doesnt really take much. I’ve been vegging 6 plants on 173w in a 4x4 and they are growing super quick.
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For the V2’s I’m unsure of which driver I’d choose. I said the 320h-c1750 but that fits 3 v1s on there pretty good. the V2s have a lower forward voltage, so you wont be on the high end of the driver (252w).
I instead might opt for the 320h-c2100a or b, which will give you ~308w, and just run it at about 75% or so.
The vf of the V2’s at 2100mA is 48.96, 3 boards will put you at 146.88v and the CC range of the -c2100 is 76-152 so you would be good there.
I think doing 3 boards might put you out of your price bracket, unless you were to contact HLG, and see if instead of the HLG-240h-c2100 that comes with the 260 XL kit, they can put in the one for the 3 board kit for maybe a small charge, and then add a board later.
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You read my mind. I thought of buying the heatsink v2 combo. It’s 2 heat sinks screws and 2 boards $165. Then buy the driver from wherever.
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You could do that, you will have the wire and wagos from your first build so should save you a bit.
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That was my thinking.
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I would agree with @Aolelon if you go 3 v2 288’s hlg-320h-c2100a/b.
You just have to make sure you get v2 boards, as pointed out fv is higher on v1 and driver will kick out of cc mode and regulate current.
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All 4 beans sprouted!!! 2inches now. Stretching a little . I lowered the blurple. 
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Ok I’ve got me boards setup.
I’m pretty sure I got an understanding of how the wiring should be connected. But to be sure I thought I’d check with you before I started. So here is my simple wiring schematic.
Does this look correct?
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Looks like too many wires. Take driver positive to positive on board 1. Put a jumper from the negative on board 1 to the positive on board 2. Run jumper from negative on board 2 to positive on board 3. Repeat that process until you just have the negative terminal remaining on board 6 and terminate driver negative there.
There’s no need to have a wire in every terminal on the board. Each board should consist of two sets of terminals, electrically both positives are the same point, as are both negatives. They just do that for flexibility of installation.
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I gotcha ya! Board to board is positive to negative and vice versa. No need to make each terminal connection, just one connection between boards. Good thing I checked and thanks again!
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Looks much better! Keep us posted.
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