I think I’ve financed pretty much most of my move with my tax refund. I have a lot of PTO built up, and I’ll be cashing it out. So I’m going to buy a bunch of lights. I’ll just have everything shipped to friends, or my parents. I’m considering if I really need a 4x8 tent, and utilize 2 4x4 tents more effectively. (Any thoughts on that?)
I’ve set my mind to order the 4 QB 324 for at least part of the 4x8 or a separate 4X4. Either way I’ll have enough lighting for something, even if I haven’t decided.
I like the idea of COB’s @1BigFella @dbrn32 I really think they fill the corners where QB’s usually have less PAR. Using different spectrums is an efficient use of space. I could always get another rapid led kit or is it cheaper to source parts?
I think the QB’s come in cheaper than the COB’s though.
For a veg light the QB120 would be adequate for that no matter the space, so I’ll pick those up as well. Those should be 4K when being used for VEG strictly correct?
I know what I order I’ll have coverage for all of the tents, but I always think about expansion, and making use of space.
Jack Daniels for when we have to get creative, I like it. I can’t do many shots though. Anyone could drink me under the table. But it sure is fun trying!
You’re making my wheels spin a little. Just the different possibilities really. You’re taking your rapid rig with you correct?
@dbrn32 Yes I am. Not leaving anything grow related behind. Your wheels are spinning from the jack… lol
Has anyone seen performance data on new boards yet? Because personally, I don’t think I’d pay that much more than a 288 for the tiny bump in red you’re getting. If the nichia configuration gets something like 4-5% boost in efficacy maybe a different story. But I haven’t seen that info yet.
But first things first. You have to have pretty good idea on what you’re doing for space. The rapid kits make whatever easy, but at premium $. And you’re plenty capable of framing yourself. I’m gonna end up being in about $350 on 300 watts of 4 gen 6 1818’s. Which are probably just as efficient there as the cxb’s are 65 watts. Far as I’m concerned, that would disqualify a rapid kit for cost.
So if you go to two 4x4, lemme run this by you… grab two 288 boards on either individual slate 2 or like the xl heatsink, and run that with two cob rails from your current light, and the driver from your third rail. Flower tent done! And your cxb’s are gonna provide more 660 and beyond than those 324’s anyway.
Then grab 4 of the 120’s or 134’s, and drop a cxb that we stole driver from of flower tent in each corner of that in your veg tent. Only power down on the driver like to 1050 or maybe even 700ma so cobs don’t overtake the boards. If and when you ever want to flower in your veg tent, plug in driver for cxb’s.
@dbrn32 you came up with stuff I wasn’t even considering, and you used stuff I already had on hand. Amazing. Not kidding.
You’re right on the kit from rapid. I wouldn’t get the frame. I’m willing to get citizens I went with Cree because I loved their stuff.
I was willing to give the 324’s a try only because they match my current spectrum. But if the COB’s give off enough red, then I’m over stressing, and over thinking it all, worried I wouldn’t have enough red.
As much as it breaks my heart on the newest board, I’m willing to pick up 4 QB288 just to have them.
I’d be willing to bet if you got some fancy layering software the new board won’t show as much intensity as deep in the reds. But maybe splitting hairs there.
Ya, I’m full of good ideas. Especially with someone else’s money haha! Which leads me back to my thoughts from a few posts ago… why not just use the rapid fixture to flower with and drop a couple hundred bucks on those 120’s to veg with? Before you answer, I already realize it’s not a hip cool new light. But I’m guessing you got cd or cb bins from rapid, they’re still $40 cobs. And they’re still $30ish performance. Throw some reflectors on them and keep output voltage below 1 amp and there’s still not another cob out there better to my knowledge. Those bigger citi and vero cobs and cxm are better at 75-100 watts, but there’s no reason to be there.
@dbrn32 You’re probably right. You’ve talked me off the ledge, I’ll probably pick up those 4 QB120, and 4 QB288’s.
Out of all of those heat sinks I salvaged, I saved the largest of the heat sinks. About 12. So you think citizens would be good on there? I’m not sure the sink is large enough to use for flowering. But maybe? Not sure how much surface area is required for passive cooling. I can grab some measurements tomorrow you can see what you think. Then I’ll just need holders, and drivers.
See what kind of surface area they have. I still think you’re looking for about 18 square inches of surface area per heat watt. If you’re serious about using them, we’ll just design around them. I have a whole arsenal of low powered cobs to look at if need be. All the major players have them, and we can acquire some of them pretty cheap. You thinking maybe using those with the qb 120’s? That wouldn’t be a bad idea, riding out the inexpensive train. For example, I think you can get vero 10 and 13 in se platform with holders for like $4-$6. Or you could underdrive some citi 1212 or vero 18 which are like $9. Or maybe even some 18 volt package like my cxm-9 or cxb1512.
No shortage of ideas here haha. You said move date may possibly be later than June now?
@dbrn32 this sound good. I’ll take some measurements and we can design around them. I was thinking about using them with the 120 or just making more to have.
Move date is still projected for June, but sometimes the tourists fill the ferry, so we might have to wait a week or two after. Just depends. I’m a packing maniac!
You could make a “frankenstein heat sink” by bolting two CPU heat sinks on a thick aluminum plate and put a 100 watt COB on the other side. As long as the aluminum plate and heat sinks are really flat and you use some sort of TIM for good heat conduction, that would work fine. The whole thing will have nearly the same temperature.
What’s the price on those heatsinks?
Do you know how many watts they can dissipate? No known object in sight so it’s hard to tell how big they are.
About $25 shipped from China, moq 10 pieces.
Base is 125mm x 125mm x 10mm. They’re the same size as timber and plc use in their models running 100 watt vero’s to the best of my knowledge.
So about the same price? Lame lol
Ya, not ridiculous amount or anything in my opinion. As far as compared to getting sinks from rapid, cobkits, or a place like that. I wanna say list price is like $13.50 each, but shipping on 10 was over $100 and took a few weeks to get them. Very happy with how they turned out though! Maybe a couple of small flaws in anno on the pins, but bases all appear flat and smooth. Something minor I noticed is that they have a counter bore a couple thousandths deep where all the tapped holes are. All m3 holes start and thread easy. I’ve had to chase threads on a few of the domestically sourced ones before.
I bought 50 140mm round pins here a few years back. They shipped in ten flat rate boxes and I’m pretty sure I was into them for around $14 each. Those are only tapped for cxb’s, have no tapped holes for mounting sinks, and no holes for routing wires. The finish isn’t great on them either. They’re definitely not the quality we’re getting from rapid or cobkits, but they do the job. I knew a little better what questions to ask this time haha.
There’s 4 citi 1818’s and an hlg-320 just waiting to burn in on them. I have to figure out how to measure junction temps on those ideal holders and I’d be happy to put them up. As it sits I can only get sink temps. With other stuff I have going on, hopefully will have together within a couple weeks and I’ll post up.
@dbrn32 That’s really not a bad price for the sinks… I like style of those. A little bit bigger but better dissipation. I need to work on familiarizing myself with the sources for led lighting related stuff. Some of the websites are confusing if you don’t know the part number. I’ll try and grab some measurements today. I’ve been slacking. Franken’ light will grow something!
I was more curious than trying to be a pita haha! And the part numbers can definitely be confusing. On leds and drivers there’s usually a key within first page or two of data sheet, they help a lot. But vary by manufacturer.
I’m as far as about to build a jig for mounting holes on sinks, I like them that much. My days of building 15-20 cob lights are seemingly over, so $5ish per sink doesn’t really change much. And the guys building that big usually more than willing to spend a little more for increase in performance, so pretty much where I’m at.