They are all meanwell 320s. I think it may be a floating ground problem because any single driver on makes the rack hot. So I would have to have 3 drivers fail or my rack ground has failed and I might be picking up small voltage even through inductive voltage from the wiring. It could be a number of things but it’s usually the simplest 
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And yes all drivers are on grounded cords and the wiring is correct in the room.
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Cool ok
I am buying a 4’x8’ tent and need to light it up
Cube is staying as is
Sorry dude, crashed a little earlier than normal. I have a few questions that may or may not make sense.
At this point you’ve only removed power from dc side via the dimmers? Try isolating each individual disconnecting from wall power and taking same measurements.
Where are you measuring, and how much voltage are we talking? If you were in there hitting it hard and a little sweaty, probably wouldn’t take a lot to get that kind of feeling. But under normal conditions, touching the frame with something like your hand would take a decent amount of voltage to feel anything, probably enough that driver should go into protect mode.
You’re saying you feel you lost chassis ground, but rack isn’t grounded, and can’t be. Can you explain please? You should be able to take some continuity readings from wherever your ground circuit ends to the prong on plug to check grounding path.
I’m not exactly sure what relationship the ac side has to the dc side, but I would guess it’s more likely an issue on the dc side at this point. Something like a skinned wire, exposed at connector, or something along those lines anyway. But that’s kind of knee jerk thought with limited info. I generally track a lot of these issues down at work on 24 volt systems. They’re a different animal though, usually a ground just drops voltage so low nothing on circuit will work. I can just pull wires until output voltage comes back.
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Whatever it is, it can’t be inductance from the current-carrying wires. The amount of inductance between frame and wires would be very small AND it’s DC!. To transfer any significant amount of power, transformers have many many turns of wire. Even if you coiled the current-carrying wire around the frame several times the induced voltage would be divided by the turns ratio, which is in exactly the wrong direction. We’re talking microvolts.
And on top of that, inductive transfer only works for AC, or just the instant the power was turned on or off.
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I agree, that’s probably not issue. Was someone suggesting it was, or just eliminating it from being looked at?
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Chances are there’s a strand or two from a flex cable touching the frame somewhere, check connections.
If drivers are mounted to frame, ensure frame is grounded too, just because a ground wire is there at the driver does not mean that everything is grounded or that it’s even connected, irrespective of make, the outer case may not actually be grounded if it is deemed that there is no way anything above SELV ratings can reach the outer case under normal circumstances as one example, so you can get a leak from the DC side which is not enough to trigger any protection but is enough for you to feel on the frame.
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I don’t know if this makes a difference either but neutral and ground are common; you would more likely have an open neutral than a floating chassis ground. Maybe.
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Ok so I unfortunately have two plants in flower not planned bit need to bring em in to finish properly
I am getting a 4x8 tent
Want to build a great fixture for this space
So what do I need @dbrn32
I think a cob fixture seems to be the way to go
I need to get crankin on it asap
Need to get these girls inside!
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I really want to build my own fixture for this tent
I checked out some of the websites you mentioned @dbrn32 but am totally lost as far as what bulbs what are good bin#s to look for
I am not trying to cheap it but just waht to build a high performance fixture
@dbrn32 I didn’t have my meter with me so couldn’t check. We are talking probably 3-6 volts. Slight tingle, less then when you stick your tongue on a 9volt. All of the drivers are wired together in a junction box. The driver cases are grounded to the frame but I might have lost my power cord to chassis ground. With all dimmers off there is no power on the rack. But any single dimmer on and there is voltage on the rack.
To be honest, I’m not sure with the anno on drivers you get good ground reference by simply bolting them to frame. So I can’t be entirely sure if you ever had one. Would be worth checking though when you have meter. Not convinced that’s the problem or related to what your seeing, but would at least verifying something you thought was case or not.
The electronics workings inside is not my strong suit, I’ve mentioned I’m not an electronics tech right? Lol. I throw boards at stuff til problem goes away. But I’ll definitely help anyway I can
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And the other question brother? Can you dim your lights to “off”?
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I have resistor soldered in everything I have together, so short answer no. But I have a 700ma driver I think and some leds it will work with, and a box full of pots. So as long as one of them will go low enough, I can try. But I may need a couple days to get to it.
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Okay, no hurry. I have a couple weeks left until I can get the light down to do my changes and I will go over my rack then. I will do some voltage checks tonight but just leave it alone till the grow is done.
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Not sure what kind of time you have during the day, but trc has a tech support group. I’d give them a call if you can. It took them a day to call me back when I called them, and I had already figured out. But they did call back. Couldn’t hurt anyway.
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Still have like 12 left and got some cree led strips today. Like 300 watts total. Just using them for veg lights
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Looks dope my man!
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