She won’t notice until it’s too late
I was able to source some remnant 1/8" aluminum plate from a local metal supplier. i’m picking up a .125x24x48 for $60.98. They wanted $20 bucks to cut it down. I’m going to handle it at home with my sawzall and a guide. cutting AL is a PITA but I just replace the blades often…
So with the parts totalled up it looks like my fixtures by parting out the blurple drivers and running the bridgelux 560mm 3500K strips will cost $131.76 ea. These will pull approx 180 watts from the wall. only caveat is no dimming…compare the performance and cost with the hlg 135. Better full spectrum, higher output and significantly less cost
I’m willing to bet you’ll have more flux than a 135.
Do you have a parts list or build diagram ? for that price I could get 2 of them and fit it into my 3x3
No need to go more than 300 watts in a 3x3.
Try two hlg-120h-c700a drivers with 20 of BXEB-L0560Z-35E2000-C-B3 strips. Probably need two 24”x16”x .125 pieceyof aluminum plate.
Ideas for rest of the stuff you need should be in this thread.
I found this on eBay:
288pc Samsung LM561C LED grow board in a mixed spectrum of 3000K and 3500K alternating rows. 54V 2400mAh max, the listing is for the board only. Dimensions are 6.83” x 11.25” and 2mm thick aluminum backing. QB 288 in a mixed spectrum.
for $45 each, so maybe 2 of those boards ? Could I use the parts list referenced in the post you tagged and then switch out the strips for 2 of those boards ?
You see that on ig?
How hard do you want to run those boards?
well ive read people talking about starting them at 50% during veg then turning them to 100% at flowering so that was my plan… I liked the idea of them being a mix of 3000k and 3500k as those 2 seem to be the ones most people reference when they say they used 1 light for all phases.
I saw on the actual hlg site they sell the qb304 boards, same ones used in the growers lights hlg 260watt kit … heatsink and 2 qb 304 3500k boards for $170 … add $80 driver and some other random wiring and it looks like I could get in for under $300 … but then again, I could spend an extra $60 and have everything professionally done and know its going to work haha
You were wanting a parts list right? In order to do that, we would need to start with a drive current.
It’s not an exact ripoff of a qb 288 if the max current is 2400ma. The 288 from hlg is like 3200ma max. Pretty standard setup for them is to run at 2100ma or so.
I’d be happy to help you find whatever you need. But we’ll need to know if they come with heatsinks, or we need to find heatsinks. How hard you plan on pushing on them, and probably some other info too.
Professionaly done is great for some stuff. Hlg is like legos. That is assuming you can strip wire, measure and use a screwdriver.
yes!!! I would love a parts list!!! I love DIY’ing stuff, especially if I can save a good deal of money
So on the HLG site … I find the kit with 2 qb304 3500k boards with a heatsink for $170
That is 2 qb304 boards, max current per board is 1400ma, each board can be powered from 10-150watts
They recommend the HLG-240H-C1050 driver for 2 of the boards in series, 1.05a\1050ma, with a dimable 3 in 1 version runs $60
thank you for the heads up.
Yes, I can solder wire measure and use a screwdriver. I used to be into modifying xbox’s and dish network equipment for nefarious purposes back in college
Yup if you order boards and heatsink you wouldn’t need much. Hlg-240h-c1050 is proper driver for two 304 boards. If it ends in A has built in potentiometer, if it ends in B has dimming leads and you would also need 100k pot to dim.
Other stuff you would need is a couple of two port wago connectors, waterproof barrel connector, power cord, and a small spool of 18awg wire rated for 300 volts.
Other than that, probably just something to build a frame to attach the two heatsinks to each other.
Nah I seen it on RIU. On their post.
I usually let them sit for about 5 days or so after each adjustment while hardening.