lol unfortunately I am a grower first mad scientist second I count on harvests so shutting down a flower space to do that kind of experiment is not in my comfort realm 
I do tests with hedged bets running extra light adds cost and defeats purpose of test a scrogged and 600+w grow tells me what I already know more light more buds goal is to reduce watts and get returns.
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I understand completely. Iām currently running a 2x3 scrog with an LED on one side and a bridgelux @dbrn32 light on the other. I count on every bud, so Iām not about to partition them. It may give me an insight, but itās by no means an accurate test. Itās tough to reduce variables without reducing potential yeild.
Btw- I was really hoping for better LED results, since I own 2 of the Roleadro cobs.
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The definitive experiment would be two clones from the same mother plant so the genetics are identical. Then run the two lights on the same timer. Same nutes, same watering schedule. It would be nice if the lights could be raised to the same height at the same time, but that might exaggerate differences.
There are many variables to account for if one really wanted to try an accurate test. Par reaching the plant would be another; and I still think splitting the lights between one single plant would be more accurate.
Iāll leave it to the big boys to play with this one 
Ya, you can never say everything is exactly the same. But is what it is. I didnāt expect results to be entirely different than they turned out. I believe itās noted somewhere near beginning of this thread or possibly in Donaldās previous thread when he mentioned this grow. Old news as far as Iām concerned.
Whatās interesting to me is the less obvious stuff. Things like canopy temp, leaf respiration under a light that throws more forward heat than one that doesnāt. How much of any difference can be attributed to uv, and should we all be running out and grabbing uvb bulbs. That stuff isnāt as easy to decipher and definitely not as easy to use slightly different growing methods to account for. Not exactly a statement directed towards you, just in general about results here.
All I can say at this point is that Iām trying to come up with something to be more definitive. I like the lecās, they bring a good bang for buck. So if thereās advantages other than that Iād like to pick them out.
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Iām not knocking anything. Since at this point I still canāt get from seedling to harvest without an issue. 
I know, apologies if I made it seem that way. All good my friend.
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You know what they say in engineering: Perfect is the enemy of āgood enoughā. Given all those other variables being the same, the difference between āenough LEDsā and LEC is probably not that important. Each have their own peculiarities you have to deal with like initial cost, running cost, distance from plants, heat removal, bulb replacement, etc.
One nice thing about LEDs and COBs, is itās easier to have multiple light sources. Harder to do with LEC but you could get the same effect with a light mover.
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initial cost $250 I can pick one out bulbs will last well over a year at 80-100 for top end 50 for lower end. Heat removal both grow spaces exhaust by exact same fan which actually pulls heat from 3 spaces at same time. Temp difference averaged around 4-6f with LEC having no built in fans to cool it unlike LED surface temps were within same margin 75-78f
multiple light sources true indeed but I hate having to dodge lights to get to my plant or have 4 cords and lights where I can have 1 or 2 I set parameters as cost and watts consumed of closest range this was 2 lights 4 cobs against 1 single bulb both on movers both at same height. Easily purchased RTU products widely accessible both LEDās advertised to be comparable to a 400w HID against single 315w HID? I realize it wasnāt 100% fair since I didnāt put the LEC up against a top end custom built Led of same actual watts at twice the price or even more I did however veg LEC plant for 1/2 the time grow it in 2 Gallon smaller pot? for 40w of draw difference most of which was ballast draw.
I am not sure how much more advantage would make my evaluation and grow results favor the LED
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If you keep talking sense like that Iām going to have to try LEC . 
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I do like your test comparison and it really was informative. Itās only part of the puzzle though. Your technic is flawless and you can instantly read your plants and make corrections so you have an advantage when running a small test like this. I really like the lec and if it fit my grow I would seriously consider it.
Yes my light cost 3 times as much as your lec, but it does far more then 3x when producing and more efficiently. Also it will last 9 years until needing to be replaced (bar an odd failure) without any bulb replacements. Just a normal blurple replacement light at your cost point will probably produce a little less in quality and quantity but will make up for it over time in life cycle. So it really depends on how this fits each grower.
Love the test and you rock brother. Knowledge is power.
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Like anything else it is based on budget and space requirements in my space I want heat and run my space at under 1000w/hr with 2 flowering spaces a veg area and separate mother space and cloning space. This includes lights fans exhaust and heating efficiency is there trust me I grow in a shed in minus 30c produce 5-6oz monthly 3-4 oz which is A grade rest for shatter and usually off 1 plant I pay for seeds once then clone as many as I want keep strains as long as I want 
use nutrients on modified schedules at half to 3/4 at maybe $10 a plant clone to harvest. My interest in LEDās is strictly quality and yield based any loss in temps means I have to use power to heat or maybe a co2 generator which is why I am interested if they produced at enough less wattage I could use heater or run propane co2 generator if temps were that much lower but really they werenāt and wattage used isnāt enough less for similar actually slightly reduced return.
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Using the heat is cool! I have propane delivered so gas heat costs about the same as electric. My lights are only about 750 watts but I run them at night and the hot exhaust has heated my house all winter. Never turned on the gas furnace once! This makes my lights free, which is a big help economically.
On the other hand, during summer it really gets too hot for growing. I would need to run more air conditioning. I think I will skip summer and just grow inside during the other seasons.
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I have to heat my house about 8 months of the year it is 29f outside right now and gas is cheaper than electricity here however shed is too small for a furnace or I would put one in which reminds me my other summer chore 
putting in HE furnace under house while house is jacked up reclaim some sft in my boot room and shave $3-4 off gas bill aswell as reduce noise level at night. My old furnace is mid efficiency located in my laundry/boot room new one is for larger home and HE but will heat crawlspace too and addition in future was just too big to get into crawl space through hatch or would be in now So many things to fix and about 5 months until temps are dipping back to too cold wanted to have house jacked up by now and foundation repairs started 
first week forecast has dipped into negative double digits ground is still frozen past top 2"
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Very interesting finding brother 
I really love those kind of experimentations
A big job is waiting you my friend later this spring and summer Will hope for you that ground melts faster and every thing is gone a go wellā¦
~Al 
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End weights are in SS came in at 2.66 oz + around oz of under grade
WW came in at just under 3 oz which I topped off with some iffy buds but still 3 oz + around 2 oz of under grade
(Under Grade is trim and still has sugar for clarification)
Having flowered WW 3 times under LEC the yield was slightly lower but most notable is the triches and scent which is lacking
The SS is retarded sticky stinks in good way I canāt wait to flower out the next one in larger pot with full veg time
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