Led strip questions

I have a question about strip leds and I’m hoping someone can help. I was looking at this light someone is selling he built a 9 strip led f series gen 3 3000k 4ft strips and he has it hooked up to 3 elg-200-c1400 drivers so 3 to each driver he says 600w+ but I didn’t think he could with using them drivers I was gonna build my own but I came across this light and I can get it cheap and also he has few smaller ones on racks just 3 strips and same driver but I think those are 2 3000k strips and 1 5000k strip or 4000k but I think 5000k but either way I’m slow at the best way to power the type or drivers to use and how to run them so can anyone help with this question and I don’t know if I even posted this the correct way thanks for reading have great day

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I bet @dbrn32 has a good answer here.

Not sure what your question is. But maybe this will help, the 200 in the driver’s number is the rated input in watts. The C1400 is the output, C is the DC Voltage, 1400 is the rated output current in milliamperes, (ma).
You always wire multiple light boards in series. So the more boards that are used the higher the output voltage need to be, in order to maintain a optimal voltage across each board.
DC volts x ma, divided by 1000 equals output watts.
For example if the driver output voltage is 145, and the ma is 1400. The formula tells us the output wattage is 203. This would support three boards that are rated for at least 68 watts each.
You really need more info on the strips, besides just the color.

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Yeah 48v max current 1800ma they can’t be the 48v 3600ma my question is are they power correctly and I thought elg if your plugin 120 it’s lower for wats but 240 I would get 200 but not so much worried about actual watts I’m sure it’s close but just want to know if the strips are powered correctly or is the better way they should be running at

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I guess I am saying that the total ratings of the boards need to be equal or greater than the driver output, you can oversize the boards, and let the driver limit the current. The 350R only uses about 60% of the rated current for the QB 648 boards.
Since the driver converts the input AC voltage to DC. The input voltage makes no change in watts, this is the result of the output side of the driver.

Correct, meanwell elg drivers derate to something like 75% output current when input voltage is 120v.

I would assume these are single row sammy’s as well. If they were double row would most likely have larger drivers. I think spec per strip on this would look somewhere around 46vdc 1050ma per strip. Power consumption would be around 48 watts per strip plus whatever driver I²R losses are.

Yes single row. I thought I read that about elgs so sounds like it’s being power right I can get the light cheap he is moving so it’s going to be trash if I don’t I wanted something different but I rather have shorter strips but yeah it’s on a frame 5x5 9 strips I would probably adjust some Plus he has 3 strips same driver just on heatsinks so I can grab everything for cheap thanks for everyone replying

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@dbrn32, please elaborate on the 75% derating. Are you saying that this driver will only deliver 150 watts on a 120 volt supply?

More or less. The circuitry on elg series drivers requires 240v line input to reach nameplate output. The driver will still work on 120v standard ac wall receptacle, but it will only produce 75% of nameplate current. In this case 1400ma nameplate current is derated to 1050ma.

I stand corrected. I am unable to delete the second part, (incorrect statement), from my post three hours ago. Please feel free to do so.
What about the HLG-320H-C2100 that I have on 120 volt driving two Diablos?

Hlg series driver completely different. They will deliver full output current in 120v input as long as not otherwise turned down from dimming pot or external dimmer.

I went and pulled elg-200 data sheet. See static characteristic diagram to left for derating chart.

Hlg drivers have no such derating feature. I think their input range for most models is between 90-305vac. This means could run 120v, 240v, 208/230 or on a single leg of 480 to neutral which would be considered 277v. This one unit could fit just about every residential, commercial, or industrial application. This also one if the reasons hlg series drivers are considerably more expensive.

In @dano13 case, whoever designed this strip layout just had a good understanding of the components. The ideal current and what most builder’s run the single row f series at was around the 1050ma point anyway. Instead of buying three1050ma 150 watt hlg series driver for roughly $55 each, you can upsize to elg 200 watt 1400ma that will derate to the 1050ma and end up in the same place. I’m nit sure wha/ current pricing on these is, but my meanwell hlg-120h-c700a was $55 in 2019 and elg-200 was about $35 at the time. If someone was building to save money it was an easy $60.

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Thanks! I guess that I was only half ass wrong then. It would seem that the elg would be best suited for Europe applications,with those voltage characteristics

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Yeah I’m sure he has about 10 in total with all the setups so I’m sure I know they are cheaper I don’t know much about why I ask plus that poop always makes my head spin and more I read try to learn more I get confused but getting there that was big help so your opinion is that in theory they should run on them drivers because I’m gonna grab it the price making me don’t really need but I like to try different things so why not it’s almost free he’s moving and he just wants them to go somewhere to be used not just in the dump thank you for all that I appreciate everyone who has chimed in thanks

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If he is letting them at much less than the cost of the components that are in them, what do you have to lose?
You can always repurpose them in another way. I could see them being used as side lights in my tent, one 4 foot strip in each corner.

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Well that’s what I thinking I’m taking over the spare room at my place so I don’t want the whole thing maybe 6x6 so gonna use some in tent and the room and I like using different things play around so really nothing to loose 100 bucks but probably know a kid that will take few get some money back

Sure, but I have learned, when you buy drivers online, you pay tariffs, taxes, and high shipping fees. And all of this really adds to the base price of the driver. A $92 driver ended up being about $140.

I know it’s bull crap not cheap

I think the best way to say it is that the driver pairing is within operational requirements of the strip configuration and the way this light is setup sounds reasonable in comparison to what is typically done.

If this light satisfied the needs of my space and price was right, i would consider buying it.