Leafs turning brown then dieing - PLS HELP


Heya ppl , thats my first post over here …

Outdoor Growing -

I got 2 plants, 3 weeks old ,amnesia haze seeds directly from Amsterdam as ive been told …
I cant say whats my soil type/ph is (im newly started grower!) I only give sum water every 2 to 3 days because my countrys temperatures r way high(37-41 last 3 weeks) , although the last 3 days r down to 30 .. My problem is that , everythin was fine till 3 days ago that i gave to 1 plant a bit of Bio-Medicine something(a medicine that supposly makes the plant grow stronger,larger,and be more fruitful).one of the leafs became brown yesterday n today the leaf was almost dead..i did remove it , didnt want the whole plant get sick..altho i saw that the other plants also started gettingsicktoo , and i havent gave anything but water.. Ive been checking internet sides since yesterday and all i canGuess` is that i gave loads of water to the plants , out of what ive read so far…
Any help and tips woud be appreciated really… :slight_smile:



There is a good chance the “bio-medicine” over fertilized and caused the leaf to burn. Or it could be normal, some leaves do die as the plant gets bigger. Over watering can cause root and leaf damage. Without knowing the PH of the soil or without knowing exactly what is in the “bio-medicine” and what the EC/TDS/PPM of the nutrient concentrations of the soil, I don’t know what else to tell you.


Thanks MacG but i got some more Question

1)IF the Bio-Med did over fertilized as you said , that means the plants is growing new leafs or replacing the one that i took off?
2)Is that going to change the routin of its growing cyrcle?
3)Did i do good by removing the rusty leaf?
ill get back to you as soon as possible about bio-medicine incredients…


Over fertilizing can delay, slow or stunt growth as the plant needs some time to repair roots. Dead leaves are not necessarily replaced, not in the same area anyway. You will always get new growth at the top or tops of branches. The only way the routine would be changed this early in the grow is that it may take a lot longer to get big as it recovers from the damage of the overfeeding which will mostly be in the unseen root structure below the surface. Only giving water was the right thing to do if it was from “over feeding”. And finally removing the dead leaf is the right thing to do as well as dead leaves only give places for unwanted things to grow.


Ok that was really helpful.thanks again…but! :slight_smile:
What i dont understand is , why did the second plant(the one that i only did watered normaly as i believe,started getting it leafs brown as well?)
weather changed soo fast from 40 to 30 degree in a single hour. might that be the problem .?weather issues i mean…Or is that normal off a plant even with out Bio-Medicine usage?!


That is why I did say it might just be the leaves dying off as normal as the plant gets bigger. However, the look in the picture seems to show some burnt/browning on all leaves, even if only at the very tips. This could be from too many nutrient salts in the soil or in feeding regimen even without the bio-medicine stuff. This could also be from the PH being way off, get a PH probe and/or meter. It could be from something already present in the soil that became more available because of the PH making it more available, it leads to a toxicity or the opposite can be occurring and causing a nutrient lockout. It might even be from over watering which can lead to damaged roots and nutrient lockouts. Knowing what the soil type is might help, but not as much as knowing what are the PH and EC (electrical conductivity)/TDS (total dissolved solids)/PPM (parts per million) of the concentration of nutrients is in the soil. Knowing the PH of the water is helpful as well.


Bio-Medicine incredients : Ascophylium Nodosum , Algit. G3 , Vitamin B , Aminoacid , N 0,4% ,PhO 0,15% , K 0,7% , ZN , Cu , Mn , Mg , Fe , B , Mo


Like you said , if the other plants are doing it too and they did not get the bio-medicine, then that is not likely the problem. The temps might be contributing but I don’t think is really a huge problem. 40C/104F is kinda hot and can contribute to low oxygen in the soil and may contribute to a problem like this. I don’t see anything that stands out in the ingredients and the NPK levels are very mild if you are mixing it according to its directions. We really won’t know what is going on without the PH or EC/PPm in your soil. You can get a soil probe that does all 4 things, PH, moisture, nutrient concentration and even light levels, at Walmart online for under $10 USD, shipped to store for free, you can probably find something similar at a local nursery/garden supply for around $20 USD/$15 Euro, although the nutrient concentration ones are less common and the PH only probe or moisture only probe are most common, try and get the one that does all 4. Or you can find the 4 way soil testing probe online at e-bay or amazon for about the same amount of money or less, that is your best bet when growing in soil, for more exact numbers you can find digital EC/TDS/PPM and PH pens online for about the same amount of money for each one, and with these you can test the water before you add anything to it and you can test the nutrient mix before you poor it on the soil or you can test the runoff after a watering to try and get an idea of what is going on in the soil.


After of 4 days in a row of 27°C and a cloudy to rainy days ,yesterdays afternoon n today theres a lot of sun/hot (35-40°)…i just checked out the plant that i added bio-med and saw that another leaf gone rotten and had to remove it but the rest leafs look nice …from the other hand the plant that i DID NOT add anythin but water , its leafs have healed totally ,theyre like new again…mention that i havent watered since the problem came on(5th day now)…
As about the PH tool that does all 4 counts ,does it count waters ph too or it does count everythin that has to do with whats in soil ?my english are poor so im trying to get this ")


The metal probes is only good for checking the soil but is very durable and very cheap. To check the PH or PPM of the water you will need a digital pen for each. These might be a bit expensive, especially if you get one that does both functions at the same time and these are more likely to only be found at hydroponics specialty stores or some other specialty store that deals with science/chemistry stuff or drinking water purity. You should be able to find these relatively cheap at amazon or e-bay.

PH and nutrient concentration are going to be the most important.

With the metal probes the moisture meter is only kind of important, it at least lets you know the moisture is high enough in the soil for the other readings to also work, and the sunlight meter will be almost useless indoors, especially under LEDs. These metal probes can be very durable and need to be kinda buffed with a rough dry paper towel to make the metal kinda shiny right before use for best accuracy. These metal probe types can be found at many garden supply stores.

3 in one PH, moisture and sunlight – http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-in1-Soil-Garden-Green-Handle-Probe-Soil-PH-Moisture-and-Light-Tester-Meter-/300964303550?pt=US_Garden_Tools&hash=item4612ded2be

4 in one sunlight, soil fertility(nutrient concentration, similar to TDS/PPM), soil moisture, and soil pH – http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Luster-Leaf-1818-Rapitest-Mini-4-In-1-Soil-Tester-Garden-Yard-Lawn-Outdoor-/351059506956?pt=US_Garden_Tools&hash=item51bcc6f70c

The digital pens need to have their tips submerged in water or nutrient solution, not so much for measuring the soil directly.

The PH pen is more delicate, it needs to be rinsed with distilled water after every use and stored standing vertical with pen cap side down and barely a drop of water in the cap. You’ll notice they have a very thin and delicate glass bulb in the pen with a thin wire inside. This glass needs to stay kinda moist all the time to ensure longevity.


TDS/PPM pens are pretty durable, not as delicate as the PH pen. The TDS/PPM pens usually only need to be rinsed off and only have a couple of short metal parts at the tip of the pen. These won’t break very easily an do not need to be stored kinda moist.


I really dont believe that i could get better services and tips/help anywhere else than here!really appreciated!
Ohh and smthn last.when shall i start “feeding” the plants?!


it’s hard to say without knowing what is in your soil.

They are still pretty small and the soil should have enough nutrients to hold them for a while.

Also you don’t want to stab the probes into the soil too near the plant, you don’t want to damage the central tap root.


Gosh those soil infos!And what if i tell you that i have no clue what my soil type is?Can this whole situation be fixed by buying those tools so i can check out Ph etc etc?:slight_smile: because i really have no idea what type of soil i got there, i found it in my garage in a plastic bag!
Or else that mean only god/luck can save this plant?


Take your time and be sure you are not over-watering. get used to the feel of a totally dry container to a very wet and saturated container. The more air that can get to the roots will help during the heat but you need to be careful the plant doesn’t dry out either. Plants will use more water in high heat. There is probably plenty of nutrients in the soil and hopefully not too much. The fact that the ones that did not have added nutrients are doing the best is evidence likely the soil has plenty and doesn’t need anymore right now.

Maybe water only a very little but more often so that it nearly dries out overnight. Water with highly aerated water in the morning, early enough that it would be kinda moist and airy during the hottest part of the day and nearly dry the next morning when you go to water. Next time maybe heavily amend your soil with coarse perlite as your soil may not drain or dry fast enough to normally dry out over one day .

Get the PH meter first if you have to conserve on money. then get the multi soil probe next and the TDS meter last as your nutrient mix looks like it shouldn’t over fertilize if used maybe as directed and you probably have time before you need to add nutrients. However having the PPM of the recommended amount mixed with a liter of water would tell us for sure and we could make adjustment like maybe half the dose per liter if the PPM is too high.

If you can find it locally maybe get the 4 in one soil probe first as it can do all three, make sure the soil isn’t too dry and measure the PH and give you an idea of the EC/PPM in the soil.


Ok thanks alot…I’ll let u know as soon as possible for further news


When i get the tools i mean :slight_smile: and once more thanks alot ILGM! Thats the less i can say honestly